Struggling with Sony A6000 - blurred photos

I upped the firmware of the A6000 from version 1.0 to 2.0. Turned off OSS, and made the flexible spot focus area the smallest. Turned off all the face recognition, eye detection and went back to basics. It does seem ok now in good light. I think I was expecting too much perhaps. I set it up to use back button focus which I'm beginning to grow to like actually.
To be fair, the A6000 is an absolutely lovely camera once you get to learn it a little. I personally think the build quality and design is actually really nice.

The only thing I'm a bit disappointed about is that (and I knew this when I bought it) the Sony E mount lacks a decent normal focal length zoom. The 18-55 is meant to be pretty average. The powerzoom 16-50 seems good for video, but for out and out IQ it's obviously a compromise and not great. The Zeiss 16-70 seems to be generally considered to be poor for the money, and not worth the Zeiss name. Soft corners and decentering issues. Then there is the other end of the scale Zeiss and FE glass which is good but big and expensive. We just need one good zoom. I love primes, really I do. But I've began to realize that when I'm out and about using my camera the most, I really benefit from a kit zoom length so I get the shots and don't have to constantly keep changing lenses. My photos are not so much planned and can be spare of the moment ones.

I really want the Fuji X-T10 or X-T1 with the incredibly good kit lens and nice JPEGs but frankly the A6000 is the better camera for me overall. Better sensor (although more noise), video is not just useable but very good, the grip is better and most of all, the AF seems to be the best in class for mirrorless and Fuji possibly the worst even after v4.0 firmware.

The Sony E system does feel a bit unloved and lacking APS-C legacy glass. I also wonder if some of the OSS lenses will become pointless if they do release a successor to the A6000 finally early next year with IBIS. i.e. Even smaller primes could be made without OSS. But it seems the push is towards FE and Full frame.
 
the amusing thing about the fast mirrorless kit lens zooms is the weight, heavier than my 16-50 2.8 a mount :eek:

you could try a 28mm lens as a replacement for kit lens, i really like that focal length on crop
 
twist said:
You spent all the time creating a cheat sheet for your phone, instead of seconds customising keys and making your life far easier :confused:

The Fn key and 4 way dial on the back allow access to 99% of whats required anyway.
Click to expand...

The cheat sheet works on any A6000. Not just mine.

What the A6000 really lacks is a custom menu that starts empty that I can add to. Rather than something I must modify.
 
Neil Pho said:
The cheat sheet works on any A6000. Not just mine.

What the A6000 really lacks is a custom menu that starts empty that I can add to. Rather than something I must modify.
Click to expand...

So you need to take your phone out your pocket, open the file, find what youre looking for, then apply to your camera.... sounds a hell of a lot more complicated than modifying a custom menu once and its done forever.
 
Faldrax said:
I suspect that someone used to a Sony would say similar things on using a Canon for the first time - each manufacturer has a different way of doing things (sometimes the same thing has a different name with a different manufacturer as well, just to increase the confusion).

The A6000 is an amazing little camera, and using as a small and light alternative to my A900 I found the controls a bit strange at first, but soon got to grips with them - the biggest issue is the huge range of options - and the solution of allowing the end user to program a set of custom buttons, plus the Fn quick menu (also customisable) means everyone can set it up in a way that suits them.

Interestingly, I have the 50 f/1.8 and have not experienced the problems you are seeing - last week we had a circus visit my daughters school, so was taking a number of shots of the performance using both the 50 f/1.8 and 55-210 - low light, but AF seemed good on both single spot and wide.

Dyxum gives the 50 f/1.8 a decent rating, so I woudl suspect that either there is a problem with the set-up of your A6000, or the copy of the 50 you have.
Click to expand...

I am certain the A6000 is bad in absolute terms. There is no excuse for the way menu items are scattered randomly rather than grouped. There is no "AF" page for example. A "Movie" page would also be a good idea. The controls are laid out badly: the main dial should be where the mode dial is and the menu button is too far from the 4 way navigator (it's used as a back button).

It's not me that has the 50 f/1.8. I went with the Sigma lens for the small size and sharpness:

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compa...y-E-versus-Sony-E-50mm-F18-OSS___1104_0_745_0

It's a pity that only a few of the PDAF points work in AF-C with the Sigmas. I don't know if this is Sony not playing nice.
 
I have to ask what made you buy the A6000? The Menu button and mode dial layout has always been in the same place so did you not find it awkward before you bought it?

I picked up my A6000 last month after trying it out a few times and find the physical layout pretty intuitive. It's only a small body so moving between the rear dial and menu key isn't a huge stretch.

Prior to the A6K I had an Nex5 for 3 years which used the original software which a lot of people complained about. It never really bothered me because once I setup the custom buttons I very rarely used the menu again but the A6K software is much better.
 
Last edited:
Neil Pho said:
I am certain the A6000 is bad in absolute terms. There is no excuse for the way menu items are scattered randomly rather than grouped. There is no "AF" page for example. A "Movie" page would also be a good idea. The controls are laid out badly: the main dial should be where the mode dial is and the menu button is too far from the 4 way navigator (it's used as a back button).

It's not me that has the 50 f/1.8. I went with the Sigma lens for the small size and sharpness:

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compa...y-E-versus-Sony-E-50mm-F18-OSS___1104_0_745_0

It's a pity that only a few of the PDAF points work in AF-C with the Sigmas. I don't know if this is Sony not playing nice.
Click to expand...

Why do you need to go into menus to change camera settings? Once youve set your movie settings you use the physical controls, why do you need to go back into the menus again? Do you reset all your settings when youre done shooting for the day or something?

Can I ask why you purchased the camera if you dont want to program any of the buttons and hate the ergonomics / controls?
 
I like the ergonomics personally. I think it's really nice. It's just the menu layout I agree is not the best. But then to be honest, the same complaints are made in Micro four thirds land with Olympus menus. It's becoming quite hard to really pack all of the features and options into intuitive and nice to use menus these days. Even my old panasonic was annoying to find stuff on. I think as twist says, really you need to make custom buttons for anything that you need to regularly go into the menus for, otherwise it's going to become tiresome. I do like the idea of more dedicated physical hardware buttons/dials/swithes even if the camera becomes less easy on the eye because of it.
 
Neil Pho said:
I am certain the A6000 is bad in absolute terms. There is no excuse for the way menu items are scattered randomly rather than grouped. There is no "AF" page for example. A "Movie" page would also be a good idea. The controls are laid out badly: the main dial should be where the mode dial is and the menu button is too far from the 4 way navigator (it's used as a back button).

It's not me that has the 50 f/1.8. I went with the Sigma lens for the small size and sharpness:

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compa...y-E-versus-Sony-E-50mm-F18-OSS___1104_0_745_0

It's a pity that only a few of the PDAF points work in AF-C with the Sigmas. I don't know if this is Sony not playing nice.
Click to expand...

As others have already responded, you have a lot of customisation on how things work, and set the things you need most to one of the custom buttons, the next set of settings go in the Fn menu.
Once you've used all these you are onto things you are only going to change occasionally, so not an issue.

I do take your point regarding the use of the menu button for 'back' - an odd choice, but having used my A6000 a number of times now (only got it late June) I am finding I can quite happily change settings with the camera to my eye, so it does come down to your fingers 'learning' the position.

Perhaps the internal menu layout is less confusing for me as I am used to Sony - started with A200, then A700, and currently use A900 as my main camera. These also had the Fn quick menu concept (though not customisable), so again, it's something I am familiar with using.

I was in two minds about the Sigma or Sony, but the F/1.8 with OSS of the Sony over the f/2.8 without on the Sigma, plus the risk of compatibility problems with Sigma made the Sony a better option for me (The A6000 is my 'travel light' camera, when portability is less important than absolute IQ - the 50 is my "it's dark!" lens).
 
I always wonder what all the fuss is about menus. Other than for formatting the card and altering the clock twice a year I'm struggling to think of any other thing I dive into the menu to do.
 
I use my kit hard. But a simple one is turning on and off remote control. I don't think I can put that anywhere sensible so I have to dive into the menus. Can you find it now, quickly, with people waiting?
 
Neil Pho said:
I use my kit hard. But a simple one is turning on and off remote control. I don't think I can put that anywhere sensible so I have to dive into the menus. Can you find it now, quickly, with people waiting?
Click to expand...

If you know youre going to use your remote why dont you leave the function on?
 
Perhaps the answer is to have every function in one long list in the menu as per my Canon DSLR's. I used to be able to open the menu, spin the dial and hit "format" 99 times out of 100. These days I have to enter the tools menu and go to page 5, but at least I can remember where it is.
 
Last edited:
stevelmx5 said:
I have to ask what made you buy the A6000? The Menu button and mode dial layout has always been in the same place so did you not find it awkward before you bought it?
Click to expand...

I wanted something small but with a large sensor. The A6000 is a very popular camera and reviews well. All cameras are compromises, but it is just frustrating that so many of the A6000 problems could be fixed easily.
 
I've just come home from shooting my sons drama performance on my A6000 with sigma 60/2.8 and 16-50 for wide shots. That's the first time I've used the A6K anywhere other than good light around the house and I was impressed with the very low light AF and high ISO.

I haven't taken the shots off the card yet but sent this one to my phone to pass around in the intermission. I was shooting around 1/125 F2.8 auto ISO and spot metering. This shot was ISO500 and the rest I was getting 600-800 and averaging nearer 3200. This is jpeg with no editing and I can't fault the camera performance and no hunting with the sigma at all.

ImageUploadedByTalk Photography Forums1443126592.805104.jpg
 
Last edited:
clicktor said:
The Sony E system does feel a bit unloved and lacking APS-C legacy glass. I also wonder if some of the OSS lenses will become pointless if they do release a successor to the A6000 finally early next year with IBIS. i.e. Even smaller primes could be made without OSS. But it seems the push is towards FE and Full frame.
Click to expand...

It does seem that Sony don't care about E mount lenses, only FE. I've been generally happy with the Sigmas though. But the lack of a decent walk-around zoom is a problem as you say. What does "APS-C legacy glass" mean?
 
Sorry I meant E mount and Sony basically. So not the Sigmas. The Sigmas I read don't have the full phase detect capability accross the entire frame.
 
Neil Pho said:
It does seem that Sony don't care about E mount lenses, only FE. I've been generally happy with the Sigmas though. But the lack of a decent walk-around zoom is a problem as you say. What does "APS-C legacy glass" mean?
Click to expand...

I suspect the view at Sony may be along the lines of

1) Start with A6000 + 16-50
2) Add 55-210 for longer reach, or one of a number of f/1.8-f/2.8 primes (Sony or Sigma) for 'fast' and OK quality
3) Switch to 18-105 G for higher quality (suffers from distortion apparently, but in camera jpeg corrects, as does LR for RAW)

Then you're getting serious, so next upgrade is to A7 body of some kind, at which point your on FF, so want FE lenses.

You are in a similar position with a DSLR - the top lenses (regardless of brand) are FF lenses- the main 'omission' in the E-mount lineup is a decent 16-50 f/2.8 type lens.
 
clicktor said:
Sorry I meant E mount and Sony basically. So not the Sigmas. The Sigmas I read don't have the full phase detect capability accross the entire frame.
Click to expand...
That's true but th face detection still works across the frame which is my primary focus method for the kids.
 
Faldrax said:
You are in a similar position with a DSLR - the top lenses (regardless of brand) are FF lenses- the main 'omission' in the E-mount lineup is a decent 16-50 f/2.8 type lens.
Click to expand...

I don't think Sony have any f/2.8 zooms even in FE mount. This seems a bit limiting to me.
 
davek said:
That's true but th face detection still works across the frame which is my primary focus method for the kids.
Click to expand...

But you can't do PDAF in AF-C execpt in a very small area in the centre, so fast moving subjects are a problem.
 
clicktor said:
Maybe I have been spoilt with my other primes then. Panasonic 20mm f1.7, Olympus 45mm f/1.8, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8....these are all sharp as tack wide open in my experience..
Click to expand...
Clicktor did you get the sharpness sorted for your children photos?

Coming from the m43/rds 20mm and 45mm I was shocked with the softness wide-open of older Sony lenses and the modern kit zooms,
so expecting great sharpness in your 50mm at f1.8 might just be asking too much.

My advice is to quickly buy the NEX-mount Sigma 60mm f2.8 which by all accounts is very sharp wide-open and is also a great price.
 
Ulfric M Douglas said:
Clicktor did you get the sharpness sorted for your children photos?

Coming from the m43/rds 20mm and 45mm I was shocked with the softness wide-open of older Sony lenses and the modern kit zooms,
so expecting great sharpness in your 50mm at f1.8 might just be asking too much.

My advice is to quickly buy the NEX-mount Sigma 60mm f2.8 which by all accounts is very sharp wide-open and is also a great price.
Click to expand...

I come form the same background but are you sure you were not just seeing shallower DOF than you were used to? f/1.8 on full frame = about f/2.7 on APS-C = about f/3.6 on m43rds?
I'm unsure at the moment. I think it was a combination of things really. To be honest I'm contemplating moving over to Fuji X-T10 for various reasons. I'm aware all cameras are a compromise though and the X-T10 also has many. There is no one perfect camera yet for me and most people.
 
I've just come back from the Airport Pub in Manchester where I was testing out the tracking focus of my A6K/Sigma 60 and from looking at the shots on screen it's had no problems :0). I'll upload a few once I've edited them later.
 
The focus length, shutter speed thing is really just a bare minimum threshold to go by if the subject is stationary and you've got steady hands but I find with my A6000 I'll chuck it in manual and use a much faster shutter speed as the auto ISO takes care of the rest and as I shoot in RAW and I can pull back any detail I need.

Couple of things I've noticed with the A6000 focusing is that for tracking moving subjects it's better to use multi point focussing and continuous AF (rather than the Auto detect mode AF) as it's more responsive. If the multi point focussing struggles due to either multiple moving subjects or there's not enough contrast between the subject and the background then I'll use the tracking mode to lock on to the subject and track it instead with continuous AF set.

If using single spot AF then I'll use the adjustable one and make it as small a square as possible. I also use back focusing button.

The only subject I struggle to capture sharp is my dog when he's belting towards me or panning. I've kinda come to the conclusion that it's a combination of the 50mm focal length not being ideal for this (should really use the 70-200mm), the AF speed of the lenses not being quick enough as they are not ultrasonic and most use a stepping type focus which is more suited for video work (the 80-200mm uses dual focusing motors so should be far better) and finally me being a bit crap at tracking fast subjects. If I set the shutter speed to 1/2000+ and the aperture to f/4 then I can usually nail it as it's a more forgiving setup.

For capturing my son playing, running etc I use at least 1/500 but often just go to 1/1000 to be safe unless the light is bad. Again going f/1.8 makes it more challenging but the dof can make it worth it if you can nail it.

I believe the focussing ability of the A6000 is more than capable, it's just let down a little by the lenses. They really need to come out with some ultrasonic lenses to make the camera's ability.

Most of my photos are now just for personal use and go on Facebook so when reducing to 1200px wide it usually takes care of any slight focus issues.
 
Last edited:
Here's my dog running towards me (usually the hardest type of movement for a camera to focus on). It was 1/500 sec at f1.8. I'm happy enough with it for Facebook etc, but if you look at the 100% crop underneath you can see it's not sharp. I should have used 1/2000 I reckon and perhaps f/2.8. It was a bit of a grab shot but still no excuse! lol

DSC05351.jpg

100% Crop.jpg
 
sthwild said:
This is a text book example of in-camera noise reduction and jpeg compression. try RAW and you'll see the difference.
Click to expand...
You are saying that the dog photo has lost sharpness due to noise reduction? I never realised it made so much difference. I don't normally look at JPEGs.
 
Aye dog was taken in RAW but I never checked the iso. Was a bright day so probably low.
 
Went back out today and took some at 1/4000 and f4. Much better results and here's the 100% crops which I'm more than happy with. It's definitely the higher ISO which is effecting the sharpness perception due to the loss in dynamic range.

The first one is ISO1000 and the second one is ISO1250

Pan.jpg

Towards.jpg


It's hard to tell from the crops but in both these photos he's running flat out, I'll put the full shots up when I get a chance as I'm travelling tomorrow. For me and my use these are more than acceptable, as said when reduced for online viewing you can't tell any different and they sharpen up nicely.

Have to remember this is like £600 worth of kit, not thousands. If it were for professional use I'd be using the D4s with an AF-S 200mm f2 fast prime or something or at least get the Sony 70-200mm f4 for the dual focusing motors .
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top