To Meter, or not to Meter...

rdh

rdh

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No
... that, is the question :)

Have the new breed of DSLR's got accurate metering systems? Are they fooled too easily?

Ken (Rockwell) say's meters are a complete rip-off due to excellent systems in cameras such as D700/D3 etc. He also mentions that using common sense and checking your pictures (and adjusting the exposure compensation accordingly) means meters are completely unnecessary. Has he any grounds for this bold statement?

Update (Feb 09): got a 758 and think it's excellent (for flash exposure).
 
rdh said:
... that, is the question :)

Have the new breed of DSLR's got accurate metering systems? Are they fooled too easily?

Ken (Rockwell) say's meters are a complete rip-off due to excellent systems in cameras such as D700/D3 etc. He also mentions that using common sense and checking your pictures (and adjusting the exposure compensation accordingly) means meters are completely unnecessary. Has he any grounds for this bold statement?
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Assuming you mean as opposed to handheld meters, then...

YES

and

NO

Cameras read reflected light, and just zooming for a shot (or recomposing) can change how the camera reads the exposure; hence (for such as Weddings) it's best to use manual and easiest to use an external meter

However, if you have time and can work with your histograms, then the camera's meter can do just as good a job if you shoot in manual and know what you're doing

As ever then...

Clear as mud

:LOL::LOL::LOL:

DD

PS - don't even mention studio lighting!
 
There's no way you can get studio lighting right without a meter, with the sort of time constraints you generally have in a studio.

Use histograms, preview LCDs and even tethered shooting if you're not pushed for time, but otherwise a (relatively cheap, even) flash meter is the way forward.
 
If it's just for flash metering, then get whatever sekonic digital meter that offers both flash and incident metering.

You'll be paying a lot more for reflective/spot metering, which is rarely useful in a studio.
 
Sekonic L-308S, does all you will need and under £100
 
mortm said:
Sekonic L-308S, does all you will need and under £100
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That Sekonic is a good entry one to have .. but can you please link us to where we can find it for under £100! The cheapest I've found is just about £110. Not a huge difference, but any saving would be appreciated.

Thanks :)
 
I cant find it any cheaper than £110 either unless you go to one stop digital or another reputable hong kong trader.
 
Keep a real close eye on Ebay. I managed to get the L-358 for £115inc, which in retrospect I realise was a bit of a bargain.
 
kalibre said:
Keep a real close eye on Ebay. I managed to get the L-358 for £115inc, which in retrospect I realise was a bit of a bargain.
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Thanks, even though I am not a big fan of ebat .. I will keep an eye open.
 
I can't imagine not using a meter in the studio, unless you plan to only ever use one light and then judge the exposure by trial and error and looking at histograms.

Here's why...you have 2 identical lights, made in the same batch, used for the same amount of time and because of the type of calibrations on the power slider/knob you can't even set them to output exactly the same power as each other, so how are you going to balance one as a main light and the other 1 or 1.5 stops down for the effect you want?

Buy a meter, learn to use it and live happily ever after.
 
to be fair, have any of you missed not having one???

i find it useful for studio setups, but again, possible without just slightly longer.

nintendo, get lights with digital readouts??:shrug:
 
Trial & error does work - given a bit of time

But if you have paying clients - testing as you go rather than a quick meter and accuracy makes you look like a pillock IMO

If you're after the 'white background' style though - the histogram is useless - so go for trial & error or a meter if you have one

DD
 
N1ntend0 said:
I can't imagine not using a meter in the studio, unless you plan to only ever use one light and then judge the exposure by trial and error and looking at histograms.

Here's why...you have 2 identical lights, made in the same batch, used for the same amount of time and because of the type of calibrations on the power slider/knob you can't even set them to output exactly the same power as each other, so how are you going to balance one as a main light and the other 1 or 1.5 stops down for the effect you want?

Buy a meter, learn to use it and live happily ever after.
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Cheers you've put worries of spending 130 pound at ease!!!
 
Georgia's Dad said:
Thanks DD
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The 'cheap' way of doing this is using the 'blinkies'

Expose your subject correctly - by trial & error

Then overexpose your background until it's all 'blinkies' as white (usually 1 to 2 stops difference)

If your subject remains placed the same and your background doesn't change - you're sorted!

DD
 
My L308s is the sex and I wouldn't be without it now. It's saved me so much time in studio and out and about. I love it and would recommend one to anybody. It's worth every penny.
 
I bought a Sekonic L-308S and it is great, though at £110 im not sure it was worth it.

I use it in my studi to make sure i get my backgrounds exposed correctly which coudl be done with trial and error. Then i use it to expose for the subject, but seeing as i pretty much get my background at 11 or so, i never really need to expose the subject as it will be 8 unless im trying something different.

If you want to spend the money then get one, but i woudlnt say it was essential.
I havent yet used it out and about yet.
 
fletch5 said:
nintendo, get lights with digital readouts??:shrug:
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As I've had the meter for years and new lights aren't cheap I think I'll stick to my set up, it certainly works for me.

Also what happens when you have those lights with digital readouts and you have different types and sizes of diffusers fitted plus they're at different distances? How you going to balance the outputs to suit your purposes?

Get a meter, it will save you time and not make you look like an idiot infront of clients (so long as you know how to use it)
 
Georgia's Dad said:
Cheers you've put worries of spending 130 pound at ease!!!
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It will save you a lot of time.

TBH I've had my meters each for over 10 years and grew up with them through the film era, so it's not like it will be expensive over the life of the meter if yours last as long as mine, I had a scare 2 years ago when the Minolta stopped working, but got it serviced and now it's as good as new.
 
mastertrinity said:
handheld meters were used inthe old days of film but now there is no need because everything is digital but you can still get a second opinion on lighting using a HH meter
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Sorry but I cannot agree with this,hand held meters are brilliant for taking an incident reading of the light falling on a subject rather than being reflected and no DSLR can do that.In the days of Wedding Togging with a manual Bronica my exposures were 100% spot on using a Weston and thats something you never get or got with reflected readings from an SLR or DSLR
I regret selling my Weston meter and will buy another if I can find it at the correct price
 
It seems to be one of those subjects that really comes down to personal choice. A lot of the well-known American pros don't bother with light meters, even when they're using flash. I think they'd argue that setting ratios is irrelevant. The only reason you set ratios is to get the picture looking how you want it. With an LCD you can see immediately how the image looks. Setting a particular ratio is not an end itself, it's a means to an end. And with digital the end is there, visible, on the back of the camera.

One of the main arguments against using the LCD is that you're looking at a small, down-sized jpg which, in some circumstances, can be misleading. I guess it's horses for courses. Personally, I think that for those of us who are not lucky enough to be shooting day-in, day-out, they can be very useful and save quite a bit of time.
 
I think in answer to what the OP asked, if you're a general photographer using a DSLR then having a meter is pretty much an indulgence. They're just not required.

I can remember doing all my studio stuff at Uni on Mamiya RBs and Cambo 5x4s and a meter was essential just to save using up all the Polaroid that's you'd swapped for beer tokens :) However, shooting in the studio now, because everything's set-up and static, I find using a histogram so much easier, adjusting lighting levels by eye and checking it back through a laptop as I shoot.

IMO the use of a lightmeter just doesn't bring me any benefits over the LCD of the camera. Plus, for outdoor shoots when i have one chance most of the time to get the shot, I just can't afford the time to be metering all the time. Good knowledge of how your camera reacts to light and getting used to your flash and how it works in union with its manual setting will teach you more than anything.
 
The meters on DSLRs, in my limited experience, aren't always that great. On a recent day out in the highlands I was needing to "overexpose" according to the meter, to get half decent shots.

Although my OM1 needs a new battery, so the meter doesn't work! Thankfully it's not too hard to guess... :p
 
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