underwater camera type stuff Info please

Cobra

Cobra

In Memoriam. TPer Emeritus
Admin
Messages
115,214
Name
The real Chris
Edit My Images
No
It looks as though we maybe heading somewhere "very wet" and very warm shortly :woot:
The "proper" underwater housing for my 40D is going to be around 1K so thats really out

Has anyone used any of the "point and shoots" in an "underwater "housing"?
It seems as though there are combinations around from about £100-£300.
I am trying to stay within this price range if possible.
And water proof to about 10 meters I guess
Any recommendations or opinions? Cheers (y)
 
Try and pick up a Fuji F30 and housing if you can - it's discontinued but very good - alternatively any of the later Fuji F50 etc will do you fine.

Don't buy a camera unless you are sure that a housing is available for it.

Check the link on my sig.
 
A few weeks ago I was in Cameras Underwater in London, asking about whether it was possible to hire waterproof housings for DSLRs. The chap I spoke to advised me that unless I really really want to use a DSLR, and unless I'm a reasonably experienced diver (neither of which is the case), then I shouldn't go down the DSLR route. He said that with a P&S you can enjoy the dive and take pictures if you feel like it; but with a DSLR the camera just takes over the whole dive. He was very persuasive.

Anyway the guys there recommend Canon Ixus P&Ss. I'm not 100% sure why but it might be related to the wide availability and reasonable prices of underwater housings for them.
 
Timing said:
Try and pick up a Fuji F30 and housing if you can - it's discontinued but very good - alternatively any of the later Fuji F50 etc will do you fine.

Don't buy a camera unless you are sure that a housing is available for it.

Check the link on my sig.
Click to expand...

Thanks thats much appreciated
Great linky too I've marked it to have a proper look when I get a bit more time (y)
 
The guy at Camera's Underwater was talking sense - I dive with a Housed D70 with external strobes. It's not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced diver. You have to be confident in your bouyancy control before taking a camera in - more so when it's the size of a DSLR. If not you put yourself at risk and are more than likely to get crap piccies.
 
Veracocha said:
I used a Mju 790SW recently and got some good pics but that didn't need a housing. Not sure how deep it would go but 3mtrs was fine. I think the later Mju's go to 10 mtrs.
Click to expand...
Cheers (y)

StewartR said:
A few weeks ago I was in Cameras Underwater in London, asking about whether it was possible to hire waterproof housings for DSLRs. The chap I spoke to advised me that unless I really really want to use a DSLR, and unless I'm a reasonably experienced diver (neither of which is the case), then I shouldn't go down the DSLR route. He said that with a P&S you can enjoy the dive and take pictures if you feel like it; but with a DSLR the camera just takes over the whole dive. He was very persuasive.

Anyway the guys there recommend Canon Ixus P&Ss. I'm not 100% sure why but it might be related to the wide availability and reasonable prices of underwater housings for them.
Click to expand...

Interestinfg Stewart thanks (y)
I haven't dived in a few years either and TBH don't really fancy taking the 40D underwater

the last U/W camera I had was on of those film thingies ( 126 I think) that you slid the side in to wind the film on. built in flash and great in its day :)
however as we are in the 21st century ..............:D
 
Have got an Ixus 860 with housing and it's great. Used in the Maldives for days on end without a single hiccup. The Ixus range even have 'underwater' white balance presets that do a good job.
 
kalibre said:
Have got an Ixus 860 with housing and it's great. Used in the Maldives for days on end without a single hiccup. The Ixus range even have 'underwater' white balance presets that do a good job.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that (y)
any chance of an image or two posted in this thread ?
 
Olympus 1030SW?

There was a tough compact test in Digital Photo this month, and this one came out on top:

olympus_tough_1030sw.jpg


3.6x optical zoom (28mm-102mm)
10.1 megapixel
Waterproof upto 10m
shockproof upto 2m
crush proof upto 100KG
2.7inch 230k screen

I think the only downside of the camera is that it uses the more expensive XD type memory card instead of SD.
 
Thanks (y)
Interesting thought if the "10m claim" by Oly is correct
 
It would be indeed! Most people will barely go much deeper than about 3 meters though.
 
I'd say it depends on what exactly you want to do, if it's just for snorkelling then be aware that if freediving to get closer to the subjects then the 10 metre depth might be passed and if for diving then I'd go for a housing.

I have two old mju400's with housings, very cheap off the bay with being discontinued.
 
social_lurker said:
I was reading a similar thread on a surf forum I frequent and the general opinion was also to go for a smaller compact and housing.
See Post#7 here: http://www.kernowbodyboarding.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=36494#post36494 for a comparison from an online mag (via a flickr)
Click to expand...
thanks for the link (y)

GarynLea said:
I'd say it depends on what exactly you want to do, if it's just for snorkelling then be aware that if freediving to get closer to the subjects then the 10 metre depth might be passed and if for diving then I'd go for a housing.
I have two old mju400's with housings, very cheap off the bay with being discontinued.
Click to expand...

Thanks (y)
When I was younger I could easily do 10M but I am not so sure now :D
I would rather play safe though just in case
 
Make sure you understand what the depth rating actually means.

For example my watch (not a diving watch - just an ordinary Seiko) is rated as waterproof to 100m. What that means is that it will withstand the water pressure if it is immersed stationary in water 100m deep. However, any movement whilst in the water - e.g. swimming - will increase the pressure which it encounters. Acordingly it's only recommended for surface swimming and shallow diving.

I imagine camera manufacturers might use a similar approach to classifying water resistance, but I don't know for sure.
 
I bought a Fuji F100Fd and the underwater housing (good to 40 mtrs) to fit to take to my holiday around the Greek Islands.

It was a really good combination as it has a 28-140 AOV, 12MP and underwater photography is usually best acheived with wider angle lenses.

Very, very impressed with the spec 28-140 (AOV on 35mm) IS and face detection, 12 mp and will go upto ISO 12800 although the quality is a bit poor then and it is only 3 MP, ISO1600 is useable. Over 1600 images in fine JPG with an 8GB card. loads of settings although would have preferred a manual mode with more settings. Smaller than a packet of ciggies but very well made. Has a specific setting for underwater photography.

Not good pics but here's mine:

IMG_1445.jpg


IMG_1448.jpg


IMG_1450.jpg


Some images from the camera: No PP at all just uploaded.

DSCF1237.jpg


DSCF1411.jpg


DSCF1314.jpg


DSCF1306.jpg


DSCF1249.jpg


Still prefer my 5D though!
 
Cobra said:
Thanks (y)
Interesting thought if the "10m claim" by Oly is correct
Click to expand...


A friend had one of these in the Dominican when i was there, and had no problems at 10m for extended periods.

I had a Fuji F31fd in a Dicapac 'bag' and that was fine (Hard to believe as it is closed with a 'ziplock' and Velcro :eek:


My 1030 SW has been as deep as 15' (depth of one of the local pools), with no problems, and realy easy to use underwater, with a big bright screen.
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the buoyancy that the housing provides. I got a housing for my Canon Sureshot S70 (not made anymore - it must be 5 years old and superceeded now) and use it for some commercial marine jobs. The shots are fine, but it is SO SLOW. The shutter lag is terrible. For things that aren't moving fast it is OK, but underwater shots of outboard motors and propellers it is a pain, having to shoot over an dover, trying to anticipate when the shutter will fire - the lag must be more than 0.5 secs and sometimes closer to 1 sec. A speedboat has disappeared out of shot in that time!

When trying to just go over the side with it for quick shots (out doing a feature on charter angling mid channel for sharks, I dived overside to get shots of the anglers landing a shark but shot from the water) with no fins, mask or snorkel, the buoyancy of the housing was more than I could overcome for any length of time. Canon will tell you how many of their propietary weights are required to neutralise the buoyancy. With no weights the housing with camera inside floats.

I am upgrading this set up to the new G10, when it is available, and with the dedicated housing for it - I am that pleased with the results (that old S70 of mine shoots RAW, so is good for even A3, full bleed, DPS's)

You don't have to use the dedicated weights (the new G10 and housing requires 4 of their weights) just get some lead sheet from a roofer, you can cut it with tin snips, and make some of your own - there is a tripod thread on the base of the housing, which I doubt you will need, just bolt the lead in place there and trial and error it in the bath/kitchen sink - when you have just enough so it sinks very slowly, you are close enough.

Water clarity will be the limiting factor to your pictures - sand/silt or even plankton bloom can make thngs very difficult.
 
Some More from the F100fd: again no PP except for a royaye on the vertical shots:

DSCF1260.jpg


DSCF1267.jpg


DSCF1296.jpg


DSCF1364.jpg


DSCF1429.jpg


DSCF1430.jpg


DSCF1466.jpg


DSCF1467.jpg


DSCF1445.jpg
 
Shutter lag on the F100fd is minimal and the housing comes with it's own weight which you can attach or detach as required.
 
Gazza_DJ said:
Olympus 1030SW?

There was a tough compact test in Digital Photo this month, and this one came out on top:

olympus_tough_1030sw.jpg


3.6x optical zoom (28mm-102mm)
10.1 megapixel
Waterproof upto 10m
shockproof upto 2m
crush proof upto 100KG
2.7inch 230k screen

I think the only downside of the camera is that it uses the more expensive XD type memory card instead of SD.
Click to expand...

+1 My son-in-law has on and coupled with the fact its shockproof it would be ideal for your purpose. Amazing that you can use it in salt water and just rinse it under the tap (y)

Neil
 
I've got the older model Oly Mju 770SW and use it while snorkelling. Not 100% sure how deep I get while I'm down but not had any problems with the waterproofness! The biggest problem is seeing the screen - the angle at which the image is visible is pretty narrow so I sometimes find myself pointing and hoping.

Image quality is reasonable up to A5 or so but like almost all compacts, noise is very visible above ISO 200 or so.

One from above the surface...
2900830493_03e6d42f9e_o.jpg


and one from below...
2900830333_ed01e98f5a_o.jpg


Both just resized and sharpenned a little.
 
Thanks for the links, images and various "heads up" guys
They have certainly given me a few ideas to work from (y)
 
I recntly did a dive trip and used a Canon 570is and Canon Housing and got what I though were great results.

IMG_2751.JPG



The total cost of the kit was about £200 - be wary of buying second hand housings unless you replace the O ring.


Any questions, just ask!
 
Pretty cool thanks Andy
 
We have an elderly canon S70 and picked up a Canon Waterproof case WP-DC40 for it on the internet. It was a display model without the box and I think we paid about £100 for it. Anyway it's very effective and is suitable for depths up to 40m.

Jenny
 
Thanks (y) I am erring towards the 570 IS at the moment as its seems the camera and case can be had for just under the £200 mark
Park cameras have the case at £80 + a fiver delivery (y)

 
This is one article that persuaded me -

http://www.oceanoptics.co.uk/mark'sfavourite.html


Plus it's a good size to hold in the hand.

You will need some weights as the case is very bouyant see the lensflare post above.

One problem with the 570is is that it sometimes shows up a low battery icon when the batteries aren't really low. The fix for this is to open the battery cover and close it again.

Oh and there is software out there to allow you to modify the firmware to allow shooting of RAW images. I haven't tried this myself.
 
Thanks for all the little "tips" Andy
I did stumble across the article before and agree it does look good (y)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top