What modifiers?

Messages
6,469
Name
Ned
Edit My Images
Yes
I’ve been using a 90cm (I think) foldable softbox and IR triggered speedlight to take photos of my newborn twins (lying on rugs etc).

The IR trigger was really naffing me off so today I ordered a Godox AD200, Pro trigger and a TT350 to use as fill or similar (also, with my sensible hat on I figured lighting would be far more useful as a GAS solution than yet another body/lens).

Being a bit of a noob with lighting I am after some advice as to what other modifiers would be useful to get, ideally I’d like to keep it small/portable/foldable as house storage space is now full of baby stuff.

Any suggestions?
 
start with... this softbox which also gives you a S type mount for the AD200 and a brolly holder.
Then depending on budget - a brolly or 2, or an 'umbrella softbox' (can't find the cheap one I have) then there's reasonably priced Octaboxes, or the versatile Lencarta folding beauty dish.

Thanks Phil, I was hoping you’d drop in :)

Any need in reflector umbrellas or are they not different enough from a softbox to matter?
 
Thanks Phil, I was hoping you’d drop in :)

Any need in reflector umbrellas or are they not different enough from a softbox to matter?
If you're going for umbrellas, I'd get one of each - the important thing about different modifiers is that largely the differences are subtle - you'll notice things that your subjects / customers will never notice.

I think Lencarta used to have example images on their website - but there'll possibly be some online somewhere.
 
A black and a white reflector would come in handy as well as a few meters of thick black fabric for better control of reflection.
 
I don't disagree with any of the suggestions above, except perhaps for the Bessel 120cm softbox - probably much too big for your space, too big for your needs and the supplied honeycomb grid is pretty useless anyway - not that you actually need one for your purpose.

I think that this is the tutorial that Phil has in mind, comparing different umbrellas, softbox etc https://www.lencarta.com/studio-lighting-blog/softbox-or-umbrella/#.Vp9nhVIl-hE

But, going back to your question, you need very little with newborns because of their perfect complexion, features etc, so you don't need soft lighting at all. In fact they usually look better with harder lighting. If you want to increase the versatility of your flashes, your starting point should probably be a S-fit adapter, this will allow either the AD200 or the tt350 to be used with most S-fit accessories https://www.amazon.co.uk/Godox-Multifunctional-Speedlite-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B00JQ30OTE This adapter can also take an umbrella. Bear in mind that as neither of your flashes have a modelling lamp it can get complicated when you try to create precise lighting effects, so simpler usually = better.

Softboxes will be fine with the AD200, because it is bare bulb which means that the light will be distributed evenly within the softbox. With the tt350, which has a fixed reflector, less so but more or less OK with very small softboxes.

You will of course also need one lighting stand for each flash.
For fill flash, get a shoot through umbrella, cheap as chips and perfect for the job, although the very uncontrolled light that they produce in a small home studio makes them a pretty poor choice for anything other than fill flash.
 
Thanks Garry, most useful.

I already have an S adapter and a brolly so guess for now all I really need is another S adapter and stand, I can learn from there
 
how big can you go with softboxes before you need to think about more than 1 speedlite?
Using a dome type diffuser you can go bigger than you'd imagine, but personally I only use speedlights in an 80cm softbox - you run out of power as well as the pattern not being ideal. And I have plenty of bare bulb lights so I'm not stuck
 
how big can you go with softboxes before you need to think about more than 1 speedlite?
Interesting question, and if you get replies from 10 different photographers then you'll probably get 20 different answers:exit:

It isn't really about power with modern digital cameras, you can usually crank up the ISO enough to compensate for low power, it's really about
Flashgun design
Softbox design
Softbox quality
What the softbox is used for
And different quality standards.

Flashgun design. If the flashgun is bare bulb, i.e. it doesn't have a fixed reflector, then it can even light really large softboxes well, allowing for the limited power. Assuming though that it has a fixed reflector, all that you'll get is a pretty uneven area of light that is thrown forwards, onto the softbox diffuser. If you can zoom the flashgun to a very wide angle then some of the light may also hit the walls of the softbox (which it will do well with a studio flash or a bare bulb flashgun) so the light distribution will be much better. Adding a diffuser to the flashgun will help to some extent, as will tilting the flash so that it's aimed at one wall instead of at the diffuser.

Softbox design. If the softbox is well-designed and deep then the light from the flashgun will travel further before it hits the diffuser, and will produce a better lit diffuser. But most cheap softboxes are very shallow. If the softbox has both inner and outer diffusers then again the light will be diffused and spread by the rear diffuser before reaching the front diffuser.

Softbox quality. If the softbox diffusers are thick and do their job properly then this will minimise the inevitable hotspot and do a better job, but most softboxes have terrible, inadequate diffusers. You generally need to spend quite a lot to get one that has been properly designed, most are just copies of copies of copies and the manufacturers have usually used the cheapest diffusion material possible.

What the softbox is used for can make a big difference. For example if it's used very, very close for quality critical work such as high end product photography then it needs to be right, and any lack of eveness in the lighting will ruin the shot. But if it's used for say family portraits, and probably placed too far away to act as a softbox anyway, then it doesn't make a lot of difference is the centre of the softbox front diffuser is a lot brighter than the edges.

And talking about different quality standards will just get me into trouble, but you can work it out for yourself:)

I would say that for most people, most of the time, 60 x 60cm softbox is probably the maximum for half way reasonable quality, other people will have different views.
 
If the goal is small/light/easy/effective then I would be inclined to put one light in the softbox you have and just bounce the other one. I might actually be inclined to put the speedlight in the softbox because it will be a bit more uneven/harder. And bounce the AD200 because that will require more power... probably using the fresnel head.
This probably sounds bassackwards, but as Garry said you may not need/want really soft lighting and uneven diffusion can be used as a gradient (for various purposes). And I would say at least a full 50% of the lighting result most get by using brollies/umbrellas in small rooms is just bounce with a bit of directionality from what does pass/reflect directly... you can get pretty much the same results just going straight to bounce (with a bit more intent/control).

Beyond that, probably some type of flag/reflector... the collapsible/foldable ones are nice and cheap, but you'll probably need/want someone to hold it for you.
 
Thanks for all the advice folks, I am paying attention, just the twins rather preclude forum life :)

I did take the new kit to our recent NCT post-birth meet up and got some great photos (by my portrait taking standards). Having enough flash power to all but remove ambient lighting is fab, I like the bare build in the softbox and radio trigger rather than IR is an absolute joy! I do now realise how useful a modelling light would be...

Lots to learn but i am loving things looking wow SOOC and with only a little work become fab. Quite impressed with the brains in the Olympus flash system too, very consistent exposure and never miles off on the tricky shots.
 
Here’s one of twin 2, and an example of where a modelling light would have helped, but I’m happy with it. Almost SOOC but used a radial filter to reduce BG exposure a touch.

97A13A44-F17E-4608-8267-35F3495442AC.jpeg
 
Back
Top