Which flashgun?!

[foodpoison]

Yes! Another topic about flashes!

No, not another topic asking "430ex or 580ex?!".

Basically, in the extremely near future I intend on purchasing skyports and the various kit needed to set up an off camera lighting system for mountain biking (skyports).

I need a cheap flash that will have E-TTL and manual functions, powerful enough to light up a subject at about 2 to 3 metres away, that will work with the skyport transmitter/receiver system.

I have next to no knowledge of this, and I was told by cherryrig that the Nikon SB-24/25/28 are some of the best value flashguns available.
I'm using a Canon 350d, and I just want some advice really!


P.S If anyone is selling a suitable flashgun, I'll most definitely want to take it off your hands at a reasonable price, too!

 

[Kev M]

Why do you want e-ttl? If it's off camera you won't be able to use ttl unless you're using another flash onboard as a commander meaning all your flashes will have to be in line of sight of the camera (unless you wait for the radio poppers). This definately rules out anything other than a canon flash for you.

If you now think ttl isn't for you then you can now look at any old flash. FIrst thing I would look at is the guide number, you can never have too much power, especially when it comes to flash guns. Also have a look at re-cycle times which might be important for mountain bike photography. I've got a Metz 54MZ4 which is probably out of your price range, an SB25 and either an SB27 or 28. All are great, the later nikon is better to use than the original as there are seperate up and down buttons for the power rather than just one button you have to cycle through the options. Only thing is I've broken the foot off the 27/28 so it's a bit fragile.

Hope this helps a bit.

 

[foodpoison]

Why do you want e-ttl? If it's off camera you won't be able to use ttl unless you're using another flash onboard as a commander meaning all your flashes will have to be in line of sight of the camera (unless you wait for the radio poppers). This definately rules out anything other than a canon flash for you.

If you now think ttl isn't for you then you can now look at any old flash. FIrst thing I would look at is the guide number, you can never have too much power, especially when it comes to flash guns. Also have a look at re-cycle times which might be important for mountain bike photography. I've got a Metz 54MZ4 which is probably out of your price range, an SB25 and either an SB27 or 28. All are great, the later nikon is better to use than the original as there are seperate up and down buttons for the power rather than just one button you have to cycle through the options. Only thing is I've broken the foot off the 27/28 so it's a bit fragile.

Hope this helps a bit.

I'm assuming the higher the guide number, the more powerful the flash?
And I thought that with the Skyport, the e-ttl data was transmitted. If its not then obviously that doesn't matter.
I think the best option is to go for a cheap, powerful, fast recycling flash that doesn't sing or dance, and then get a proper flashgun for my camera.

 

[Kev M]

I'm assuming the higher the guide number, the more powerful the flash?

Yep.

And I thought that with the Skyport, the e-ttl data was transmitted. If its not then obviously that doesn't matter.

Just checked the flash centre website and there's no mention of ttl control with skyports. AFAIK the only triggers that do this are Radio Poppers (not available here yet) and Quantums (make Pocket Wizards look cheap)

I think the best option is to go for a cheap, powerful, fast recycling flash that doesn't sing or dance, and then get a proper flashgun for my camera.

Sounds reasonable to me. Off camera flash is great but there are times when you don't have time or just plain can't be bothered and sticking a flash on the camera does just fine.

 

[Chappers]

The Canon Speed light transmitter will give you e-TTL control over canon flashes, but it's £140, only works with Canon flash units and is of limited range as it uses IR. Mind you the Radiopoppers option won't be cheap either

I'm with Kev M You are far better using a good off camera flash. You can probably pick a fairly powerful one up cheaply nowadays

 

[chuckles]

In the 'olden days' when a transistor was something to dream about all you had to work with were Guide Numbers. Now, as much as I love Nikon's CLS (I don't think there is anything to beat it in all honesty), you can still get "Manual" flash work. How? Simple!

You know your ISO, you know your flash-subject distance and you know your Flashgun's GN.

so ...... GN=42 metres @ ISO100, Subject to Flash = 5 metres..... 42/5=8.4 or f8 ... QED

No matter how many 'guns you have (easiest if they all have the same output) the exposure is based on the closest to subject. Just need a cheap slave trigger and you're away. It's the flash to subject distance that's important NOT camera to subject. (Unless it's mounted on the camera )

Answer = £6

 

[foodpoison]

Its all extremely confusing!
I think this is going to be one of those things that I'll have to figure out myself through lots and LOTS of experimentation.

I decided to bite the bullet, bought a 430ex, because I decided I would use the flash on camera as well, so its best to get one that fits and works :shrugs:

Cheers for all the help though.

I'll probably have plenty more questions when the flashgun arrives