Who to use for Hasselblad repair?

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erm well I haven't finished yet :D

quick reply from Miles

***Hello Brian
If it is a loose group/element then refitting should resolve the issue, if it is not something loose then not sure what has occurred, presume it has not been apart previously?****

So off the lens goes to Miles...to decide whether it can be an excellent lens or paperweight.

Hooray , be sure to let us know the outcome.

Looks like my shutter, which i hope to post off tomorrow, will be even further down Miles's jobs to be done list .....good job I'm in no rush int it!
 
He might when he wakes to a Dr's medical lamp / torch in hospital after passing out at the shock of Miles's repair bill:ROFLMAO:

Well this time I didn't ask for an estimate (last time was £40 plus postage).....as the lens is useless it costs what it costs to fix it, I've no other choice if I want to use it.
 
Hooray , be sure to let us know the outcome.

Looks like my shutter, which i hope to post off tomorrow, will be even further down Miles's jobs to be done list .....good job I'm in no rush int it!

Well at least you'll know there is a very good chance it would be fixed if he has spares for broken bits.
And of course I'll let you'all know how it turns out as I'm retired, it's winter and I got nothing better to do than to annoy you'all :Do_O
 
Update on my Canon 19mm lens and Miles has replied:-
Finally got to your lens, it appears to have had an impact, there is very slight damage to the filter ring and when it is on a body the front is at an very slight
angle to the body which is why the focal plane is not parallel and causing the focus issues, unfortunately I doubt that trying to straighten the damaged barrel
would be viable.

and I replied with a photo:-

Hi Miles
Ah I can see the lens is not absolutely at right angles to the body in the photo enclosed as the right side is more out of focus, but the depth of field @ 19mm f8 i.e. about 2.2ft to 20ft should have given a sharp picture all over...do you think the drop de-centred an element? What do you think is the next move......to dismantle the lens or send it back?
My thinking is:- originally a pro would have bought this lens (very expensive) and with these results it was unacceptable and would have been fixed by Canon, so something has happened to the lens over the years.
regards Brian
 
It could have been dropped by anyone since it was bought new though Brian. You bought it for a few quid at a boogie and that's probably not the first time it's changed hands. Also, there are more amateurs on this forum spending mega bucks to take pictures of their cats than working pros :0)
 
... there are more amateurs on this forum spending mega bucks to take pictures of their cats than working pros :0)

I haven't got a cat, should I have?
 
It could have been dropped by anyone since it was bought new though Brian. You bought it for a few quid at a boogie and that's probably not the first time it's changed hands. Also, there are more amateurs on this forum spending mega bucks to take pictures of their cats than working pros :0)

Well Steve it's not a common lens so yer average joe public wouldn't have had one...anyway maybe this lens is delicate and even a small drop would affect it, but I've picked up lenses with a severe dented filter ring and they work ok and then with manufacturing tolerances it must be difficult to get a lens spot on 90 degrees...h'mm maybe not. I'd go for an element out of place or put in back to front, but have to rely on Miles's opinion on how to proceed and if he did take it apart and found nothing wrong it's going to be a waste of money and I have a lemon :(.........on top postage costs would be £10 :(
 
Well Steve it's not a common lens so yer average joe public wouldn't have had one...anyway maybe this lens is delicate and even a small drop would affect it, but I've picked up lenses with a severe dented filter ring and they work ok and then with manufacturing tolerances it must be difficult to get a lens spot on 90 degrees...h'mm maybe not. I'd go for an element out of place or put in back to front, but have to rely on Miles's opinion on how to proceed and if he did take it apart and found nothing wrong it's going to be a waste of money and I have a lemon :(.........on top postage costs would be £10 :(
Miles has just said " unfortunately I doubt that trying to straighten the damaged barrel would be viable." So are you suggesting that a man with a lifetime's experience fixing cameras and lenses is wrong? He hasn't said nothing's wrong, he's said " it appears to have had an impact, there is very slight damage to the filter ring and when it is on a body the front is at a very slight angle to the body which is why the focal plane is not parallel and causing the focus issues"

I'd just stick it on ebay, give it an honest description and let it find its own value.
 
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this.

And for god's sake, PLEASE DON'T BOTHER TELLING US ANYTHING MORE ABOUT THE BLOODY THING. JUST MOVE ON.

:D

#41......Hooray , be sure to let us know the outcome.

Anyway it's all knowledge for someone else who might have a similar problem.
 
Miles has just said " unfortunately I doubt that trying to straighten the damaged barrel would be viable." So are you suggesting that a man with a lifetime's experience fixing cameras and lenses is wrong? He hasn't said nothing's wrong, he's said " it appears to have had an impact, there is very slight damage to the filter ring and when it is on a body the front is at a very slight angle to the body which is why the focal plane is not parallel and causing the focus issues"

I'd just stick it on ebay, give it an honest description and let it find its own value.

Well it's up to Miles and his decision.....so how does a guy using a camera with a bellows ensure the lens is parallel to the film, and still get a sharp picture....OK the lens (or an element) is not at 90 degrees to the body but that doesn't explain either side of centre is blurred even stopping well down doesn't help and depth of field doesn't work. Anyway I'll keep it as it would be useful for a subject in the centre to be sharp and it doesn't matter if blurred either side.
 
Well it's up to Miles and his decision.....so how does a guy using a camera with a bellows ensure the lens is parallel to the film, and still get a sharp picture....OK the lens (or an element) is not at 90 degrees to the body but that doesn't explain either side of centre is blurred even stopping well down doesn't help and depth of field doesn't work. Anyway I'll keep it as it would be useful for a subject in the centre to be sharp and it doesn't matter if blurred either side.
I have lost the will to live :bang:
 
I have lost the will to live :banghead:

...I'll probably never have another 19 or 20mm lens and it's my pride and joy if only it worked properly :( It would be very amusing if I'd tested the lens on a T70 and the camera body was out that wouldn't show for 24mm upwards.:eek:
 
...I'll probably never have another 19 or 20mm lens and it's my pride and joy if only it worked properly :( It would be very amusing if I'd tested the lens on a T70 and the camera body was out that wouldn't show for 24mm upwards.:eek:
This was my pride and joy

Volkswagen by Nick Watson, on Flickr

but you know, it didn't matter how much I wished it worked it just didn't so now it's a big cube of squashed metal. I'm not suggesting you bash your lens with a hydraulic hammer but it doesn't work!
 
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MOD EDIT: SERIOUSLY - NOT APPROPRIATE
 
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Well it's up to Miles and his decision.....so how does a guy using a camera with a bellows ensure the lens is parallel to the film, and still get a sharp picture....OK the lens (or an element) is not at 90 degrees to the body but that doesn't explain either side of centre is blurred even stopping well down doesn't help and depth of field doesn't work. Anyway I'll keep it as it would be useful for a subject in the centre to be sharp and it doesn't matter if blurred either side.

The bellows on a camera are attached to a rail that is 90 degrees to the body on the lens board. If there was no lens board the bellows would tend to be a bit floppy which would result in images like those produced on old Canon ultra wides that have been dropped.
 
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The bellows on a camera are attached to a rail that is 90 degrees to the body on the lens board. If there was no lens board the bellows would tend to be a bit floppy which would result in images like those produced on old Canon ultra wides that have been dropped.

....so depending on the rail being spot on 90 degrees would determine the sharpness of the picture? So if my lens is trying to focus points of light on the film plane but is at an angle then no way could it ever be sharp all over so Miles is right although he didn't explain it.
 
What about that woman in Chiswick who died recently and spent 26 years sleeping in a car. :eek:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...rity-lived-Ford-homemade-shelter-decades.html

that's far from the same thing as asserting that a burned out hull of a camper van is an appropriate place for anyone to be domiciled.

ANYWAY... Seeing as this thread is entitled "Who to use for Hasselblad repair?" - and the OP had his answer by post #3, and hasn't needed to return to this thread, I think it's time that this one was closed, before things escalate further.

Mind the doors chaps.
 
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