Canon 5D MK I 'classic' - owners thread

I had a 1Dmk2 before my 5D and I could see them working well together.
 
A 5D and a 1D MkIIN is the combination I have. I find as a pair they work okay together. The 5 D is normally my weapon of choice, but as soon as a better autofocus or reach are needed then the 1D comes into it's own. The Autofocus is very very good. It does have the quirky two handed operation the you need to press combinations of buttons etc.
 
Thanks for the replies, sounds like it could be a good match. I have some money burning a whole in my pocket at the moment and have seen one for what I think is a good price.

Also, on another note, my 5 is missing a screw in the bottom of the camera, does anybody know what sort of screw I'd need?
 
Also, on another note, my 5 is missing a screw in the bottom of the camera, does anybody know what sort of screw I'd need?
I had a loose one as well. Once I tightened it, the display stopped rocking.

Maybe a service manual can help you out, or alternatively, take the whole camera to an electrics shop and compare screws to one that is still in place. Philipps head #0 it was, I think.
 
The screws are #00 or #000 but the thread and length are what matter. Too short and it won't hold, too long and you'll screw it into a circuit board or something..
 
Ok I'm done with the DVD, Taz I'll PM you if you can send me your address I'll try and beat the Xmas rush.
 
My 5D/1,

Not sure on my iso spec, the lowest setting is 100 iso, then next lower setting it shows 'Low', so does 'Low' mean 50 iso or 25 iso? I'm lost....

Can someone explain this please, thanks!
 
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i need to bite the bullet and get one of these to replace my 40D, it should go nicely with my 17-40L and 24-105L i think?

is there much of an upgrade in image quality than my 40d? and i'm right in thinking full frame gives a shallower depth of field?

cheers

Alan
 
Right on both fronts. Images from the 5D are sharper than the 40D pretty much invariably, noise performance is worlds better (703ISO vs 1368ISO on DxO Mark), and because of the wider field of view for each focal length you get closer to the subject for roughly equivalent framing, meaning shallower depth of field. (A lot of people will point out that it's the focal length, aperture and focusing distance that determine depth of field, not the sensor, but by and large they're just trying to sound clever and usually being unnecessarily confusing).
 
My 5D/1,

Not sure on my iso spec, the lowest setting is 100 iso, then next lower setting it shows 'Low', so does 'Low' mean 50 iso or 25 iso? I'm lost....

Can someone explain this please, thanks!

yep.. tis 50. But that will only work if you have 'extended ISO' enabled (something like that anyway) in the custom settings. At the other end of the scale you have 'H' for 3200 ISO (off the top of my head) :thinking:
 
I think you lose some dynamic range at ISO 50 as well

Yeah you lose about a stop of dynamic range but for most shots where you've got enough light to be shooting at ISO 50 you don't have a huge amount of dynamic range anyway.
 
Silly question time, sorry;

Was reading my 5D/1 owners manual tonight, either shooting in b/w or colour I take it it's best proceedure to set the 'sharpness' level to 7 (the highest setting) for best/sharp photo's via the picture style settings..?


Advice welcome!
 
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Are you shooting jpeg or raw?

My understanding is that it only affects jpeg.
 
I'd be slightly worried that the camera may unintentionally over sharpen the image so I'd set it to 5-6 and do a final sharpen at the end of PP
 
I think that it's probably best to do as little as possible in camera. The theory being that your pc and a dedicated photo processing software package is probably more likely to get you the results that you want rather than relying on some code writen by Canon.
 
I don't do any pp stuff on my pc as I don't know how. I just shoot hi-res jpeg all the time and that's it.

I loaded the original disc that came with my 5D Mk1 onto my pc, but can't work out how to bring a photo in to manage it, I've nil skills & dumb at pp stuff.
 
I don't do any pp stuff on my pc as I don't know how. I just shoot hi-res jpeg all the time and that's it.

I loaded the original disc that came with my 5D Mk1 onto my pc, but can't work out how to bring a photo in to manage it, I've nil skills & dumb at pp stuff.

Kinda makes me wonder why you're shooting a 5D then?
 
I don't do any pp stuff on my pc as I don't know how. I just shoot hi-res jpeg all the time and that's it.

I loaded the original disc that came with my 5D Mk1 onto my pc, but can't work out how to bring a photo in to manage it, I've nil skills & dumb at pp stuff.

i know what you mean mate. it can be fairly daunting when you're presented with all these options in pp software. Maybe just try using the free picasa software and have a tweak with some of the settings in there to find your feet before moving onto raw processing (y)
 
If its not already been mentioned try a trial of lightroom, or perhaps photoshop elements 10, that will do all you want and can be got pretty cheaply - £50 on Amazon.
 
Nice!

Not seen this thread for a while.

I've just got a old SIGMA 70-210mm F4/5.6 MC (manual) lens for my 5D, will be giving it a go at the weekend.

Also with all the star gazing stuff on the TV I've got a T-mount adapter for my telescope... just need clear skies now!
 
Hi Guys,

I've been doing some research on a new body (presently 450d). I've decided to go for the 5d or the 5d II but from reading this thread i'm swaying towards the original.

I have read that early serial numbers 0,1 had specific issues-was this to do with the mirror fix or something else?

Also I have been looking at MBPs range and tempted but what puts me off is there is no way of knowing how many clicks it's had, so on one hand I really want to go for it but on the other a little wary....any assistance would be much appreciated!
 
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I did some research into serial numbers and came out with the info that

0 and early 1 serials had mirror issues, and you can tell if the 1 serial is late or early by looking at I think it was the 5th digit in the serial. Past that Canon are supposed to have implemented the fix. Also beware that '0' serials may have the green tinge defect on LCD's.

There just happens to be a 5D MK1 and grip at a good price in classified right now.. the shutter count is supposed to be approx 8K :shrug: ... it turns out I may have enough funds to keep my 5D II so I don't need both a 5D and 5DII!

Oh and theres really no way of knowing shutter count, and I know some people try to judge by cosmetic condition but this isn't a sure way of knowing either - I've seen pristine looking cameras on 90K - 170K should be dead shutter counts (not a 5D but you get my point).
 
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Has anyone with serial number beginning 2 had to send theirs in for the fix?

Thanks
 
I did some research into serial numbers and came out with the info that

0 and early 1 serials had mirror issues, and you can tell if the 1 serial is late or early by looking at I think it was the 5th digit in the serial. Past that Canon are supposed to have implemented the fix. Also beware that '0' serials may have the green tinge defect on LCD's.

There just happens to be a 5D MK1 and grip at a good price in classified right now.. the shutter count is supposed to be approx 8K :shrug: ... it turns out I may have enough funds to keep my 5D II so I don't need both a 5D and 5DII!

Oh and theres really no way of knowing shutter count, and I know some people try to judge by cosmetic condition but this isn't a sure way of knowing either - I've seen pristine looking cameras on 90K - 170K should be dead shutter counts (not a 5D but you get my point).

Thanks for the info!

Think i'll just need to bite the bullet, as you say you can't go on the cosmetic aspect as that can prove meaningless in terms of the shutter count!
 
Has anyone got a wired/wireless remote for their 5D? On my 500d I have a continuous self timer mode that takes upto 10 consecutive pictures after the timer has finished and I need to replicate this with the 5D (surprised it isn't a built in function...) and I'm hoping a remote can do this, preferrably wireless. Cheers all
 
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