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- Chris
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I had the 135mm for about 6 years and it is better than any zoom I have ever used great Lens
I'd love a 135L f/2, to me that would definitely be stellar, although i love my 100 f/2 too much to give that up.
NO!!!
.....but thanks for the offer
In all seriousness, i dont need convincing, and i could buy it tomorrow if i really needed it. My problem is its too close to my 100 f/2, and i love the 100 because its so small and light. If i had a bigger and heavier lens i wouldn't use it as much, so luckily im not too tempted at the moment.
If i had an actually need for it i would get it in a heartbeat (or more likely Hong Kong)
Ive never used a 24-70 MKI, but almost everything ive read says the MKII is better. A lot of people say its Prime IQ in a zoom, but then not all primes are equal anyway.
Ive tried to get in to using just primes, and in fact id say i use my 100 f/2 more than any other lens, even as a walkabout lens, but i cant get over the restriction primes can put on you under certain conditions, so my go to lens is still my 24-70 (although at the moment its the 24-105)
I'd love a 135L f/2, to me that would definitely be stellar, although i love my 100 f/2 too much to give that up.
Depending on what photos you take. Personally I would go for the 50mm, because I know it would fit me more than the wider 35mm. I like to take portraits where I don't need to go 10m back to get the shot =)
Both of them are superb lenses. Since you got the 85 and the 135, maybe you want to go for the 35mm to cover the lower end?
To sell, or to recommend? I don't have one at the moment, but I'm definitely going to pick up the RS-80 later in the year.Does anyone has a good cable release for the 5D? Using an Infrared one, but it's pretty useless when you stand behind the camera...
To sell, or to recommend? I don't have one at the moment, but I'm definitely going to pick up the RS-80 later in the year.
Just rechecked again and definitely not getting the red focus lock light at all with the Canon extender. Lowest I could go was F11, when testing in AV or TV mode
Incidentally just did some tests without either converter and cropped them, much sharper than either converter produced and with this setup I got the red focus light and could stop down lower than F11 to F8
Incidentally when I tried Manual mode for the test using Auto ISO
Canon no extender -- used ISO 100
Canon x2 -- used ISO 200
Kenko -- used ISO 320
The Kenko was not as sharp as the x2 converter
To sell, or to recommend? I don't have one at the moment, but I'm definitely going to pick up the RS-80 later in the year.
I think 35mm and 50mm on the 5D are very nice Streetphotography lenses.
You need get close to the subjects/objects and that's I think is the challenge.
When there are days where I am not really in a mood to get 'close' to them, fortunately I got a VERY nice version of the 24-105L That person must have been nuts to sell it to me Da.. ^^
Anyway, I really prefer the 24-105 to my 24-70L MKI which has been stolen last year. It gives me sharper images and more reach. The loss of 2 stops is compensated by the IS which is fine for me.
Next things on my list are the 8-15mmL for my Google Trusted Business Photographer Project and a Fuji X-E1 paired with Fuji 35mm 1.4 for normal use.
Does anyone has a good cable release for the 5D? Using an Infrared one, but it's pretty useless when you stand behind the camera...
Greetings,
Probably down to user error and whatnot
5D 3 along with the 24-70 mk2
I just can't seem to get pin sharp images with it at all with portrait / landscape work
someone has mentioned to do micro focus with the lens but no idea if its out of alignment as such anyway so no idea what to look for.
going to try and get a focus tool to use and go from there really
Greetings,
Probably down to user error and whatnot
5D 3 along with the 24-70 mk2
I just can't seem to get pin sharp images with it at all with portrait / landscape work
someone has mentioned to do micro focus with the lens but no idea if its out of alignment as such anyway so no idea what to look for.
going to try and get a focus tool to use and go from there really
Hi Dave - I was using my 100mm macro, and I also tried my 24-70mm.
Just been out and took a few hundred photos and seemed to be ok again - so will just have to keep an eye on it, got warranty so not worried unduly
cheers
got a question regarding using the in camera HDR.
When you take a shot in this mode the camera takes 3 pics right?
the first 2 noises the shutter makes sound identical, but the 3rd time the shutter opens/closes its a different noise and it pauses or jitters/slows down!!
The images all look OK, does anyone elses' do this too?
Do you have any poor samples we could look at?
This is the method i used until i got FoCal. It might give you an indication if there is something up.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/1ds3_af_micoadjustment.html
Also check that there isnt any MFA already applied. You can do this either in the menu or jus ton the LCD when in shooting mode, as it will indicate if MFA is in use.
Im sure i read that some people have noticed the camera has turned this on (-8 IIR) without any user intervention. I think it was a bug that might have been fixed by now though.
got a question regarding using the in camera HDR.
When you take a shot in this mode the camera takes 3 pics right?
the first 2 noises the shutter makes sound identical, but the 3rd time the shutter opens/closes its a different noise and it pauses or jitters/slows down!!
The images all look OK, does anyone elses' do this too?
Is focal worth using? I have never had to tweak my lenses.
This is my first camera with MFA, so ive never had the option to tweak (or really needed it anyway)
Its hard to say if its worth getting. Ive not really had to use it, although i have run it on my primes and 24-70. The 50mm f/1.4 does seem a bit better when its wide open now (+5), but the 24-70 only needed +/- 2, so basically it was fine, as was my 100mm and 40mm.
Ive had varying results with FoCal, i would say if you see a problem with AF then Focal is just as good as any to help correct it. If you dont and are just wanting to get the very last ounce of sharpness out of an already sharp lens then no, its not.
I used the Moire test i posted above before i got Focal, and that showed my lenses were more or less fine (other than my first Tamron), but i got FoCal as it was on offer, and i wanted to see what all the fuss was about.
Do you have any poor samples we could look at?
I use single AF most of the time
This was the 1st shot i ever took with my 5D at the beach it was a test shot so no flaming using 50iso
Think i was in focus on the cliffs (far right af)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/103944763/3A4A1024.cr2
I know that shooting into the sun makes things generally softer anyway.
& going towards to dusk with the slower shutter speeds (below 60th sec) its very soft anyway.
At the moment i am comparing the sharpness with a Nikon D3S + 24-70 who a friend has and baffles me every time no idea what the comparison is between them but seems the 5d3 has nothing on it.