FITP Hi-light background thread!!!!

How are you triggering them? Remember the SB-600 doesn't work as an optical slave (without additional hardware), and the YN-460-IIs aren't CLS compatible.

Edit : I was wrong, they're *sort-of* CLS compatible with the pre-flash-ignoring optical slave mode, but still manual power.
 
ah Not enough details :)

I was planning to run the two YN-460-II as slaves and connect the sb600 to my d90 via FITP's RF-602's. That way the SB600 should triger the YN-460's..

Sound ok?

James
 
Yeah, that should work. Just got the RF-602's off FITP last week too, hehe. Did a quick test with the SB-600 on the RF-602, then SB-900s in SU-4 mode. Worked a treat. :)
 
Can I join in? I had a fitp hilite for a day and it was too big for my space:bang::bang:.

Now I have a Hilite by lastolite (thanks to my wife:clap:).
 
What size and what space do you have????

I have measured it and I think it will be ok but you probably never know until you actually using it!

I still have to persaude the wife... or it be on its way!
 
Been experimenting most of the day and the most important thing I have learned is....its not about power!

I started of thinking that I needed to blast the hilite with lite to get it right and all that did was give me spill onto my subject.

The beginning of the day saw me with both my strobes at full power and now they are at minimum:D.

Shooting has went from f11 down to f5.8 -f8.00, shutter speed from 250 down to 125.
 
Oh yeah, you only want to blow them out by a stop at most really. :)
 
Ideally you want 1/125, F8. and ISO100 on subject with background 1-2 stops brighter...

(y)
 
Some images, Been quite resourceful and found some like minded subjects:LOL:

1
​

2 x 160w strobes in hilite set at min and giving a pleasing even spread at f8 for 95% of the hilite. Noticeable drop off at top middle third and extreme top corners.

1 x SB 800 in 32" softbox firing at 1/32nd power, head zoomed into 105mm
giving f4.00 at subject.

Softbox at camera right and angled down from above. Subject only 18 inches from hilite.

Camera fired at f4 125th sec at iso200


2
​


Same setup and used as a test to see how much light would drop off from right to left.

Been researching Rankin's high key stuff and thats the way I want to go(y)
 
markw08 said:
Ideally you want 1/125, F8. and ISO100 on subject with background 1-2 stops brighter...

(y)
Click to expand...

Would it make too much difference shooting at ISO200? I currently go f/11 on the background, f/8 on the subject at ISO200. Mine isn't a Hilite though so I need a little bit extra as the lamps are firing directly onto a white background.
 
I had a go tonight using two speedlights but struggled to get a very even spread across the hilite. Am I doing something wrong here - how are you guys metering the hilite? I'm using a meter close to or even touching the hilite material - is this the wrong way to measure? I get f13 in the middle and then very quickly it drops off to f5.6 or below around the edges. I guess I can give it another go with my mains powered strobes.

Any ideas?
 
Jchaplin said:
I had a go tonight using two speedlights but struggled to get a very even spread across the hilite. Am I doing something wrong here - how are you guys metering the hilite? I'm using a meter close to or even touching the hilite material - is this the wrong way to measure? I get f13 in the middle and then very quickly it drops off to f5.6 or below around the edges. I guess I can give it another go with my mains powered strobes.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Not an expert, but until one comes along.

Are you pointing the meter at the background? Do so(y)

Try and point them to the back of the unit to get more even bounce

Start from the lowest power setting you have and work up.

Try working with each strobe separately and then when you turn them both on you should might get an extra half stop.

This bit is important.... write everything you do down and draw wee sketches, you will find them invaluable.
 
Dman said:
Would it make too much difference shooting at ISO200? I currently go f/11 on the background, f/8 on the subject at ISO200. Mine isn't a Hilite though so I need a little bit extra as the lamps are firing directly onto a white background.
Click to expand...

Remember its a balancing act of sorts

Iso
Shutter speed
Flash power and distance to subject
Aperture

One goes down, something goes up
 
Thanks alpina. Meter is pointed at the background. Does it matter how close to it I measure? Flashes are pointing toward the back of the unit and this helps. I tried using the diffuser on the front of the flashes but this seemed to make things worse.

Not tried starting at lowest/one flash at a time so I may give this a go. Unfortunately they are different flashes so probably quite different power outputs.

Have taken a note of settings I got to this evening so its repeatable ... as you say, rather invaluable!

Any other thoughts?

Jeremy.

Edit: Quite comfortable with relationship with iso/aperture etc. Shutter speed not really relevant here as ambient light being overpowered by flash power. Distance from flashes makes a big difference hence my query re how close to background to take meter readings?
 
Jchaplin said:
Thanks alpina. Meter is pointed at the background. Does it matter how close to it I measure? Flashes are pointing toward the back of the unit and this helps. I tried using the diffuser on the front of the flashes but this seemed to make things worse.

Not tried starting at lowest/one flash at a time so I may give this a go. Unfortunately they are different flashes so probably quite different power outputs.

Have taken a note of settings I got to this evening so its repeatable ... as you say, rather invaluable!

Any other thoughts?

Jeremy.
Click to expand...

Just hold the meter close to but not touching the background.

I watched my college tutor demo a traditional high key setup and he used a 1000w strobe left and a 200w right. He started on the left side and got something like f16. He then switched that of and did the same on the right side. Then he switched them on and got f16.5 ish

Remember if you get only f11 at iso 100, its going to be more at iso 200(y)
 
alpina said:
Shooting has went from f11 down to f5.8 -f8.00, shutter speed from 250 down to 125.
Click to expand...

Shutter speed has nothing to do with your exposure in a studio setup.

But you're right, blasting too much light is not the right move.
 
Kaouthia said:
Oh yeah, you only want to blow them out by a stop at most really. :)
Click to expand...

I actually try not to blow it by that much. 1/3 stop over is more than enough. More power = more spill and less control.
 
alpina said:
Remember if you get only f11 at iso 100, its going to be more at iso 200(y)
Click to expand...

ISO 200 is an extra stop so if f11 @ ISO100 it will be f16 @ ISO200
 
Shutter speed does effect to some extent...

Depends on your radio trigger speed.. some max 1/250

Ideal focal length is around 100mm so 1/125.
Prevent camera shake...

Ref: Dman
Nikons lowest setting is ISO200 so as long as you meter at 200 for F8 you should be ok..

(y)
 
More of a question for FITP

Will there be a version with more zips as I would not only use it the 1.8x2m way but then flip it landscape for 2x1.8 shots as i know a few people that are a little shorter and would benefit from the extra width?
Thats the only thing stopping be buying one.
Cheers .
 
alpina said:
Shooting has went from f11 down to f5.8 -f8.00, shutter speed from 250 down to 125.
Click to expand...

alpina said:
It has if my studio i the front room with lots of ambient light.
Click to expand...

If you can use 1/125 then anything above that up to the sync speed is fine. Just really responded because if you got good images at the settings above, you didn't need to reduce your SS to 1/125 as that would have made no difference to your exposure (other than to increase any ambient you may have floating around).

I do understand that ambient can have an effect though and max sync speed can in that case would be better as it should blot out all ambient light. I've had problems with ambient light in a conservatory. i just bumped up the power a bit though.

Just another point that some mentioned incereasing the ISO.

When increasing the ISO people should also take care with the ambient light levels (if any) as you may need to certainly shoot at Max Sync speed. Increasing the ISO means more light will enter the lens so ambient light could start to seep into your exposure. Easy way to check is take a shot without firing any lights and if you are at f8, 1/200th, ISO100 (or whatever you need) and the image is black you are fine. if you see light, you need to either increase the SS or give more power (set lights to f11 or higher) until you remove all traces of ambient light.
 
markw08 said:
Shutter speed does effect to some extent...

Depends on your radio trigger speed.. some max 1/250

Ideal focal length is around 100mm so 1/125.
Prevent camera shake...

Ref: Dman
Nikons lowest setting is ISO200 so as long as you meter at 200 for F8 you should be ok..

(y)
Click to expand...

Shutter speed does not affect the exposure when using a radio trigger? What's could affect it is the inability of the trigger to cope with the max sync speed of your camera. My Skyports don't like higher than 1/160th as the shutter starts to appear in the frame (as a dark shadow ).

Camera shake will not be an issue even shooting at 1/60th (which many people used to do). Remember the flash is your shutter speed and mine fires at a relatively slow 1/1000th of a second. Some go way beyond that.

I don't have an "ideal" focal length as that depends on what you are shooting and the space available.

JD
 
kiteninja said:
More of a question for FITP

Will there be a version with more zips as I would not only use it the 1.8x2m way but then flip it landscape for 2x1.8 shots as i know a few people that are a little shorter and would benefit from the extra width?
Thats the only thing stopping be buying one.
Cheers .
Click to expand...

Have a look at my post in this thread on modifying it to include zips on the short sides. Total cost was about £12 including the glue gun. About £4 if you already have a glue gun. It took me about 45 minutes to add the zips and was pretty easy. Just remember that hot glue is hot (I didn't !) ouch.
 
Hodders' approach is the way to go - bought zips yesterday and the wife had a go at sewing one onto the short side - took her two hours + just to stitch one side of the zip (not happy as you can imagine!) - so i'm off to buy a glue gun now to finish the job!

Hodders: have you had a go at lighting it evenly yet?
 
Jchaplin said:
Hodders' approach is the way to go - bought zips yesterday and the wife had a go at sewing one onto the short side - took her two hours + just to stitch one side of the zip (not happy as you can imagine!) - so i'm off to buy a glue gun now to finish the job!

Hodders: have you had a go at lighting it evenly yet?
Click to expand...

Good luck with the glue.

As for lighting it - I have *just* got a couple of YongNuo 460s from FITP and these are destined as the main lights for the hilite. That plus a lightmeter should let me have a more detailed play. Busy weekend so probably next week.
 
Having purchased one of these backgrounds, I can see a need for a train.

No then, not being skilled in this art..... I find myself questioning what to use as the train....What material.

I visited a fabric shop a week or so ago and bought a length of cotton to use as a backdrop prior to the Hilite background........

However, I remember reading/seeing people mention a vinyl train......

Is there a prefered/correct material to use?

Appreciate your knowledge......

Phil
 
I ended up buying the lastolite one from WarehouseExpress - bit expensive for what it is but it has the velcro in the right places for attaching to the hilite. Figured that I'd saved so much buying the hilite from FITP that it was worth going that route. Am sure any sort of bright white vinyl would do the same job...
 
Jchaplin said:
I ended up buying the lastolite one from WarehouseExpress - bit expensive for what it is but it has the velcro in the right places for attaching to the hilite. Figured that I'd saved so much buying the hilite from FITP that it was worth going that route. Am sure any sort of bright white vinyl would do the same job...
Click to expand...

Thanks.....

Just to clarify..... The Vinyl is a 'shiny/reflective' material...... almost like the 'sipe clean' table cloths for childs parties ?

Or should it lean towards a matt finish.......?

Cheers

Phil
 
Hi
I use the Lastolite 6x7 for 95% of my work, excellent for the studio and for clients homes. my personal preference is 2 lights for the background ( gives a even light coverage) and 2 lights set to the front (one of which is used as a fill light). I used to meter the background to subject @ f22 and F11, however this was a little excessive so now shoot with a 1 1/2 stop, for me gave a greater control over light spill.....
 
I received my hilite thursday. Tried both a shower curtain and a white kingsize flatsheet as train and both where too "creasey". Not wanting to spend much more, the wife would kill me, but need to find something that will do the job.

Also bought two of FITP's cheap flashes to light my background. Worked wonderfully last night in slave mode being triggered from an sb600. But today I couldnt get them to trigger from my SB600 in a softbox on full power. I think the ambiant light was to high. So looks like ill have to get another RF reciever....

James
 
Oh and as for packing/folding it back up..... I give up.. the wife will just have to get use to our large big white piece of funiture......
 
brownjl said:
Oh and as for packing/folding it back up..... I give up.. the wife will just have to get use to our large big white piece of funiture......
Click to expand...

Once youget used to it it's pretty easy! You do need some brute force. Get your strongest arm under a corner with the edge tucked on your belly. Now pull that arm up and round so that the corner folds round. Now you can do the other side in a similar but easier way and you have a nice circle to put in the bag :)
 
brownjl said:
I received my hilite thursday. Tried both a shower curtain and a white kingsize flatsheet as train and both where too "creasey". Not wanting to spend much more, the wife would kill me, but need to find something that will do the job.

Also bought two of FITP's cheap flashes to light my background. Worked wonderfully last night in slave mode being triggered from an sb600. But today I couldnt get them to trigger from my SB600 in a softbox on full power. I think the ambiant light was to high. So looks like ill have to get another RF reciever....

James
Click to expand...

Is that because they were used on Carpet ?

I spotted and bought a shower curtain in Asda yesterday at £1.50 ..... so was gonna see how that pans out as a train sometime today...... but will try it out in the kitchen on a hard floor......
..... Probably get the wife to iron it in advance aswell :bat:

Phil
 
Said Curtain is SH!TE and is in the bin already... too thin to iron...

Here's my first attempt at using the background.....

1 x 550Ex in the background @ 1/2
1 x 430Ex in softbox camera left

I think I need to balance the light on the right abit... but thats for next time..... If I got it right first time, where's the fun in that... :D

 
Nice picture. yeah the left side looks great but your just getting a bit of spill on thr right..

Shower curtain, asda, £1.50, bin - snap :) You can see why I said it was full of creases...

James
 
This was my first attempt. I used two YN460-IIs inside the hilight and then just natural light. Never had chance to take any more pictures other than this test whilst he was eating his breakfast as he is coming down with something so wasn't in the mood..

hilite-1.jpg
 
EOS_JD said:
Once youget used to it it's pretty easy! You do need some brute force. Get your strongest arm under a corner with the edge tucked on your belly. Now pull that arm up and round so that the corner folds round. Now you can do the other side in a similar but easier way and you have a nice circle to put in the bag :)
Click to expand...

Got a large one on the way and am starting to get worried that I'll never get it folded again! lol. Hopefully it's easier than the flash softboxes, mine come out the bag and never go back in! :bonk:
 
get one side folded over and the other will move over easier :) might take a few goes to get used to it but I can take it down in less than 10secs. - And I'm a weakling!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top