Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Does it freeze halfway through a shot? Were you outside in the cold? It could be the shutter sticking.

Doesn’t seem to be shutter related and I’m in New Zealand at the moment so it’s pretty warm. The camera takes photos fine, I’m just having to use the screen which I don’t like/isn’t ideal when the sun is bright. The EVF just seems to be flickering off/not working at all.
 
Space station went by tonight omdmkII 300f4pro + 1.4tc 1/1600 f5.6 iso 400
Rob.

PC130157.JPG
 
Bit of advice needed - I'm looking for a fairly low cost macro set-up, and was thinking of a secondhand E-M5 (mk1) average price £250 for a low actuation one in VG condition with 1 year guarantee + 60mm macro lens, probably new as with the current cashback offer this would make them pretty much the same as good SH examples. Any thoughts on this combination, weaknesses in the Mk1 M5? The subject will be indoors using studio flash and will mostly be product detail.
 
Bit of advice needed - I'm looking for a fairly low cost macro set-up, and was thinking of a secondhand E-M5 (mk1) average price £250 for a low actuation one in VG condition with 1 year guarantee + 60mm macro lens, probably new as with the current cashback offer this would make them pretty much the same as good SH examples. Any thoughts on this combination, weaknesses in the Mk1 M5? The subject will be indoors using studio flash and will mostly be product detail.
OK, but just remember the EM5ii has integrated focus stacking. Which might suit your macro work. But not as cheap as the mk1.
 
OK, but just remember the EM5ii has integrated focus stacking. Which might suit your macro work. But not as cheap as the mk1.


Only the EM1 has focus stacking, the EM5ii has focus bracketing.

FWIW I think the EM1 is the best bargain in the m43 world at the moment, I always picked it up ahead of my EM5ii as its just a better tool.
 
I found focus bracketing much more useful than focus stacking, imo it gives you more control over the final image.


There's a good post on the subject here
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the feedback - I don't really want to invest in the E-M5 mkII or indeed an E-M1. Regarding the inbuilt stacking/bracketing I didn't think this would work with studio flash, which is the only time I'd use macro and if needed (which given the small sensor size and type of detail I'd want to capture is unlikely) I could probably manage this in post with manually moving the focus points.
 
Bit of advice needed - I'm looking for a fairly low cost macro set-up, and was thinking of a secondhand E-M5 (mk1) average price £250 for a low actuation one in VG condition with 1 year guarantee + 60mm macro lens, probably new as with the current cashback offer this would make them pretty much the same as good SH examples. Any thoughts on this combination, weaknesses in the Mk1 M5? The subject will be indoors using studio flash and will mostly be product detail.

Are you looking at using mf on a tripod or on live insects in hand?

I suggest you try a 60mm f2.8 before buying if you can. The MF is focus by wire and when you get closer that 1:4 the focusing is slow.
For hand holding I use Back button focus and rock method

This is one version I use for closer than 1:1 but it iset to 1:1 but just move the rig by hand to get the shot

Macro rigg E M5II by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Here is a shot with it


Dicyrtomina saundersi by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Are you looking at using mf on a tripod or on live insects in hand?

I suggest you try a 60mm f2.8 before buying if you can. The MF is focus by wire and when you get closer that 1:4 the focusing is slow.
For hand holding I use Back button focus and rock method

I'd use AF or MF, depending on what I felt was appropriate at the time and again either handheld or tripod mounted - comfortable with all approaches, remember this will be in the studio environment where I have control of the light. As said the aim will be to provide some close elements of product detail; markings, defects and so on as shown in the examples below - yes I know, totally unexciting stuff! I do this currently with my compact in 'micro mode' but quite often I find myself physically too close to the subject and as a consequence shadowing the light.

_m884.jpg

_83f.jpg

_m834.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the feedback - I don't really want to invest in the E-M5 mkII or indeed an E-M1. Regarding the inbuilt stacking/bracketing I didn't think this would work with studio flash, which is the only time I'd use macro and if needed (which given the small sensor size and type of detail I'd want to capture is unlikely) I could probably manage this in post with manually moving the focus points.

The focus stacking/bracketing can be set up to work with recycle times for flash

I'd use AF or MF, depending on what I felt was appropriate at the time and again either handheld or tripod mounted - comfortable with all approaches, remember this will be in the studio environment where I have control of the light. As said the aim will be to provide some close elements of product detail; markings, defects and so on as shown in the examples below - yes I know, totally unexciting stuff! I do this currently with my compact in 'micro mode' but quite often I find myself physically too close to the subject and as a consequence shadowing the light.

View attachment 116397

View attachment 116400

View attachment 116404

For this kind of thing lighting and exposure are really important and I suggest you have underexposed the first shot of this set. My example shot is a bit on the small side compared to this. The 12-50 or 12-40 would work well enough to shoot your valves.

Have a look here https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/we-need-you-in-draft-want-to-get-into-macro.551944/

For this type of shot the E-M5ii and the 12-40 with good lighting on a tripod with hi res mode would work well

This is from that comdobtw work looking at on Flickr

Grass and ice by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
All those shot are under exposed - deliberately in the first and last case to bring out the print/etching on the valve glass and in the second one to ensure the damage to the glass support was clearly evident, this was done in post, all sessions start with grey scale and colour patches to reference against meter readings. I could set-up individual lighting just for the close-up shots, but these were part of a session where over a hundred individual items were shot averaging four pictures per item and I'd only allowed 6 hours. With a dedicated macro camera, I'd probably set-up a second workstation specifically for this type of shot, I'll investigate the 12-50 as there is a E-M5 (mkI) with this bundled, which I understand was an original kit option.
 
Anyone had success in getting their EM5MK2 to focus peak and / or magnify using a Samyang 7.5mm f3.5 fisheye lens?

I've checked the camera settings and it's set up for it but it won't do it.

Could it need electrical contacts for this to work as I can focus peak on my Olympus lenses?

Not a major problem with a fisheye I know, just want to know I've bought a working lens.

Thanks in advance,

Terry.
 
Went out practicing some astrophotography last night, nothing worth posting here yet, but i have to say, live composite makes it so easy and is a joy to use.
 
Got the hang of Live time and I love it, not got live composite right in my head yet.

I'll have to look at some Youtube vids I think.
 
Got the hang of Live time and I love it, not got live composite right in my head yet.

I'll have to look at some Youtube vids I think.

I tried a few settings, what seems best for me was a 1 second setting and keeping the exposure going using the 500/600 rule.

The hardest part is fiddling with the controls in the dark and getting focus right :)
 
All those shot are under exposed - deliberately in the first and last case to bring out the print/etching on the valve glass and in the second one to ensure the damage to the glass support was clearly evident, this was done in post, all sessions start with grey scale and colour patches to reference against meter readings. I could set-up individual lighting just for the close-up shots, but these were part of a session where over a hundred individual items were shot averaging four pictures per item and I'd only allowed 6 hours. With a dedicated macro camera, I'd probably set-up a second workstation specifically for this type of shot, I'll investigate the 12-50 as there is a E-M5 (mkI) with this bundled, which I understand was an original kit option.

The other lens to consider is the Olympus 30mm f3.5
 
I've been in contact with Olympus re the EM1-II in silver and they have informed me that they have no plans to make it in silver. Very odd and a real shame imo.
 
Anyone had success in getting their EM5MK2 to focus peak and / or magnify using a Samyang 7.5mm f3.5 fisheye lens?

I've checked the camera settings and it's set up for it but it won't do it.

Could it need electrical contacts for this to work as I can focus peak on my Olympus lenses?

Not a major problem with a fisheye I know, just want to know I've bought a working lens.

Thanks in advance,

Terry.

I'll try and have a go this weekend - not used focus peaking before but will see if I can get it working as I have that combo.
 
Anyone had success in getting their EM5MK2 to focus peak and / or magnify using a Samyang 7.5mm f3.5 fisheye lens?

I've checked the camera settings and it's set up for it but it won't do it.

Could it need electrical contacts for this to work as I can focus peak on my Olympus lenses?

Not a major problem with a fisheye I know, just want to know I've bought a working lens.

Thanks in advance,

Terry.

Asign focus peaking to a button is the solution for non m4/3 lenses
The samyang does not communicate withthe camera AFAIK and so does not show it is moving focus.
 
Went out practicing some astrophotography last night, nothing worth posting here yet, but i have to say, live composite makes it so easy and is a joy to use.
Got the hang of Live time and I love it, not got live composite right in my head yet.

I'll have to look at some Youtube vids I think.


This is a live composite shot and just so you know the water wasnt calm enough the reflection was done in PS

Buttermere startrails by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
They could be telling lies;)
They could of course, but the email did say to go on that they may release limited editions like the Titanium EM5-II but there has currently been no announcement of plans to do so.
 
Just wondering about the anti-shock options on the OMD's. Do you have it turned on all the time or only for specific lenses and shutter speeds. Is there any disadvantages to having it on all the time?
 
Just wondering about the anti-shock options on the OMD's. Do you have it turned on all the time or only for specific lenses and shutter speeds. Is there any disadvantages to having it on all the time?
I leve anti-shock on all the time and as yet have not seen any negative effects, and have used several lenses in a variety of scenarios and shutter speeds. I don't use silent mode except in rare circumstances due to the risk of rolling shutter.
 
Just wondering about the anti-shock options on the OMD's. Do you have it turned on all the time or only for specific lenses and shutter speeds. Is there any disadvantages to having it on all the time?
All the time for me.
 
I leve anti-shock on all the time and as yet have not seen any negative effects, and have used several lenses in a variety of scenarios and shutter speeds. I don't use silent mode except in rare circumstances due to the risk of rolling shutter.

All the time for me.
Is that with the 0 sec setting.
 
Just had this shot in Digital SLR Photography Magazine expert critique section but they put it down as being taken a Bloody Canon 5d and 50mm f1.8 not my E-M5ii and 9-18mm lens I mean why would use a 50mm f1.8 for this. Lets face it back when I boiught a camera with a 50mm f1.8 I could wait to get another lens and stop using it.

Tewet tarn dawn reflection by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Just had this shot in Digital SLR Photography Magazine expert critique section but they put it down as being taken a Bloody Canon 5d and 50mm f1.8 not my E-M5ii and 9-18mm lens I mean why would use a 50mm f1.8 for this. Lets face it back when I boiught a camera with a 50mm f1.8 I could wait to get another lens and stop using it.

Tewet tarn dawn reflection by Alf Branch, on Flickr


Beautiful image.

Why did they get so mixed up?

At the same time, there's nothing wrong with a 50mm 1.8 for landscape either. Many pros still use a nifty, whatever the make or model. Of course you wouldn't get as much in from the same point, but I don't buy the whole wide for landscape only idea.
 
Last edited:
Just had this shot in Digital SLR Photography Magazine expert critique section but they put it down as being taken a Bloody Canon 5d and 50mm f1.8 not my E-M5ii and 9-18mm lens I mean why would use a 50mm f1.8 for this. Lets face it back when I boiught a camera with a 50mm f1.8 I could wait to get another lens and stop using it.

Tewet tarn dawn reflection by Alf Branch, on Flickr

You should give them some "expert critique" on their tagging ;)
 
Just some rambling thoughts, and I know I have said something similar before, but yesterday I went out shooting with the gripped EM1 MK II and mainly using the Panasonic Leica 8-18 F2.8-4 (rather than my usual Olympus 7-14 F2.8), and I absolutely loved using it, it was a joy to use and the main thing is that is was fun - something that's been lacking over the last few years with DSLR's where Canikon just seemed to want to get one over each other all the time.

I've had many cameras over the years starting with film (Nikon F4, F5 and even a brief fling with a Hassleblad 500CM), then onto digital where I've shot with most of the main APS-C and FF cameras Nikon produced (D2x, D3, D4, D100, D200, D300s, D7000, D7100, D7200, D500, D700, D800, D810 & D750) - yes waaaay to many, (and now all gone except the D500), but out of all of them, I'm sat here looking at the little Olympus, and I genuinely have to say, out of them all over 40 years, it and the Nikon F4, are probably my most favorite cameras of all time. It handles brilliantly, looks great, has a fantastic feature set and most importantly produces fantastic images. In my honest opinion, it's only the very latest generation of DSLR cameras and the latest Sony mirrorless that can beat it for image quality (but not necessarily for features).

When I check the OMD's images against those taken with my D7100 or earlier, it's only really the D7200, D500 and the full frame D4, D750, D800, D810, that can beat it on DR and high ISO (and sometimes not by much). it's certainly good enough for 95% of my shooting. Now I have the amazing Olympus 300mm F4 with that extra stop of light over my Panasonic 100-400 (or even my D500 with the Tamron 150-600), it even serves it purpose as a wildlife shooting camera as well (as my recent high ISO images of birds in a thread a few weeks ago can attest to). I've never really been into razor thin (mm) DOF that a full frame F1.2 or F1.4 lens can offer, and used to shoot them at around F4 just to get the whole eyes in focus, whereas on M4/3 I can shoot with my Nocticron 42.5mm F1.2 wide open and just have enough DOF (but with better light gathering characteristics and therefore lower ISO).

I do admit I spend far to much money on gear (it's my one vice), and was looking quite longingly at the new Panasonic G9, but to be honest, I'm not sure what that would give me that I don't' already have. From what I have read, it's high ISO and stills performance is about on par with the OMD EM1 II, and yes it does have a bigger EVF, twin UHS II card slots, an AF joystick and USB charging which are all nice, but then the EM1 II counters by being smaller and lighter, and has it's incredible Live time and Live composite modes, automated focus stacking, as well as (so I've read) a more mature high res mode.

Don't get me wrong, it's not a perfect camera (which one is), and some of those features I've mentioned above would be nice to have's on the next generation, but I do believe that Olympus will continue their tradition of giving us firmware updates that should improve things even further (small AF points, better AF tracking etc), and maybe even some new features like they did with the EM1 MK 1 ? So for me, at this moment in time, the OMD EM1 MK II (and it's older MK1 brother), and simply superb image making machines that are an absolute pleasure to use.

Ramble over

Now how sexy does this look :p:p

 
Last edited:
Back
Top