Show us yer film shots then!

Yes, the TP one does look better... (first example)
 
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Here's one from the same roll as the Rapeseed field one above, you've got me paranoid about posting from Flickr now... Although when I tried to upload direct to TP I just couldn't get a file to fit the rules..

Adam
 
Really?

It looks obvious to me.


Been investigating that line on your fence post, best done on the photobucket edition cos it goes fullsize easy.
At first I thought the scanner had missed a line or two but I'm thinking its actually odd shaped newton rings, so a glass/mount problem rather than the scan
 
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Cheers John. I know what that is.

It happens when the film is curved a bit too much and touches the glass of the scanner.
 
First time I tried Rollei Retro 80s, unimpressed tbh. I know these are about a stop underexposed which is partly why I need a new meter but the sky is a mess and it is about right.

Any this was to by my suburbia entry I just didn't have time to catch the deadline. Sorry.

2015-04-R80-RB67003
by steveo_mcg on Talk Photography
 
So... I've used various film and cameras for these...

The first one is using an Olympus Trip 35 with some OOD Kodak Gold 200,(probably explains the colour of the sky) developed in C41...
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This was with the Bronica SQ Ai... using Fujicolor film dated 1993... NPH 400 which I shot at 200 ASA... all the rest of the OOD film from this batch has been developed normally in C41, which suited it better...
I did this as semi stand developed in C41 for 45 minutes... the film was very curly, and had some fogging, and also had a lot of colour shifting, so it's been converted to B&W
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This one is with the Nikon F100, using Agfa Vista 200, and developed in C41...
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This one is also with the Nikon F100.... using OOD Fuji Sensia, as I didn't have any E6 chemicals left, I decided to Cross process it using C41...
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@Solo man
Some interesting "finishes" there Lee from your mix of different films and processing.
I personally like them all even thé sky in thé first shot .....reminds me of my school trip photos as a kid.... They seemed to have a similar look /tint ......perhaps all 126 and 110 films were Kodak gold! Lol
 
@Solo man
Some interesting "finishes" there Lee from your mix of different films and processing.
I personally like them all even thé sky in thé first shot .....reminds me of my school trip photos as a kid.... They seemed to have a similar look /tint ......perhaps all 126 and 110 films were Kodak gold! Lol
Thanks Asha...
You could be right, when I saw the first one, it did remind me of an olden days photo lol...
I'm really just trying to improve my developing skills, and trying out different things...
 
The Partisan on Flickr

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I'll say a few things about this photo. 1. I took it this afternoon, and it's barely dry, but the bathroom was needed. 2. It is documentary. I was hoping to capture something of the 2015 General Election in the local town, but only this guy and a few mates from the Labour Party were out (it's a Tory stronghold with UKIP challenging). 3. It's taken on Shanghai GP3 budget film, with a car boot sale Agfa Isolette I folding camera..
 
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So.... I tried this Kodak Vision3 50D film.... shot at 50 ASA
Had no clue what to expect, and unfortunately(or not), I developed it with the dregs of some 2 year old C41 chemicals I found and made up... so, that might explain why there seemed a lot of unusual colour...
Removing the remjet wasn't too difficult, but it does make a bit of a mess lol...
Anyway... 3 images all taken at Buckfast Abbey...

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I like this...
I'm thinking when I've used all my OOD film, I might get me some of this film to try.
Can I ask what you are developing it in?.
The cheapest medium format film on the market - Shanghai GP3 from Chinese vendors on Ebay. Prices fluctuate, but usually works out a little over two quid per roll.

This one developed in Kodak D76.
 
The cheapest medium format film on the market - Shanghai GP3 from Chinese vendors on Ebay. Prices fluctuate, but usually works out a little over two quid per roll.

This one developed in Kodak D76.
Thanks Paul... well, I have about 150 rolls of OOD film still left to use up, but that film looks ok.
I haven't tried D76 yet either, so that'll be another first.
 
First time I tried Rollei Retro 80s, unimpressed tbh. I know these are about a stop underexposed which is partly why I need a new meter but the sky is a mess and it is about right.

Any this was to by my suburbia entry I just didn't have time to catch the deadline. Sorry.

2015-04-R80-RB67003
by steveo_mcg on Talk Photography

Interesting, I'm shooting a roll of 80s at the moment.
I absolutely adore the 400 and figured (hoped) that 80s would show the same characteristics
 
Interesting, I'm shooting a roll of 80s at the moment.
I absolutely adore the 400 and figured (hoped) that 80s would show the same characteristics

I shot the rest of the roll later with a meter and in strong sun and it looks better, pretty high contrast but better. I'll get the shot up later.
 
Thanks Paul... well, I have about 150 rolls of OOD film still left to use up, but that film looks ok.
I haven't tried D76 yet either, so that'll be another first.
Lee, Kodak D-76 has identical (or so they say) results to Ilford ID11. Both come in a powder form which you mix into a stock, although the Ilford comes in two packs that have to be blended in order, and the Kodak in a single packet. The Ilford can be bought in 1 litre or 5 litre forms. I like the five litre size, as once mixed, it'll last me months (if kept carefully, it will keep fresh at least six months). The Kodak, although made in Germany, comes in a packet to make either 1 litre, or a US gallon (3.8 litres). In both cases you mix the stock in hot water at the recommended temperature, but as I said, the Ilford is divided into two packets to be mixed in order.

I find that ID11/D-76 make useful fall-back developers, finer grained than Rodinal/R09. I use them one shot, either 1:1 stock to water, or if I'm feeling really mean, 1:3 stock to water. I like the ID11, because the five litre version fits nicely in a reused five litre drum, and it is made in the UK. However, the Kodak 3.8 litre works out a little cheaper. To keep the stock good, it's worth trying to squeeze as much air out of the drum as you use it, while you can. Otherwise once mixed, it'll give you months of cheap fine grain developer.
 
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