Upgrade from a D40...

I've found a few different filters here, and some seem a lot different in price even when they have the same effect, I'm guessing this is down to the quality of the brand and overall performance, am I wrong?

Personally I've never tried Kood, but I don't think they are that good :shrug:

As for Hoya, watch out as they make a variety of types with varying quality.

Personally, I'd suggest you go with Marumi; they are reasonably priced and are very good. They are also easy to clean (cleaning CP filters isn't an easy feat). I got my Marumis from Microglobe. If you're going to buy Marumi, then get the DHG ones. They are better than the ones that are not DHG.

Other brands that are outstanding are Heliopan and B+W; but they are very expensive. It helps to keep in logical cost relationship between your filter and the actual cost of your lens. The D40 is an outstanding camera, as has been said earlier and in many other posts; but the lens you have are your limiting factors. It wouldn't make much logical sense to put a £200 B+W CP filter on a £100 lens :shrug:
 
Are you suggesting that a 24mm lens has a 24mm field of view and a 200mm lens a 200mm field of view on a full frame camera as well? :cautious:

(BTW I thought that a 50mm lens had a @40° 'field of view')

I'm pretty sure what was meant was that a 24mm lens remains 24mm on a full-frame sensor where as on a crop sensor it would offer the equivalent field of view as a longer focal length on a full frame sensor. Roughly 36mm based on a 1.5x crop sensor (for simplicities sake). I see how the 'field-of-view' terminology could be a little ambiguous but I don't think that sbd123 was meaning to make any reference to field-of-view in a measurement of degrees.
I hope that makes some sense :shrug:
 
Personally I've never tried Kood, but I don't think they are that good :shrug:

As for Hoya, watch out as they make a variety of types with varying quality.

Personally, I'd suggest you go with Marumi; they are reasonably priced and are very good. They are also easy to clean (cleaning CP filters isn't an easy feat). I got my Marumis from Microglobe. If you're going to buy Marumi, then get the DHG ones. They are better than the ones that are not DHG.

Other brands that are outstanding are Heliopan and B+W; but they are very expensive. It helps to keep in logical cost relationship between your filter and the actual cost of your lens. The D40 is an outstanding camera, as has been said earlier and in many other posts; but the lens you have are your limiting factors. It wouldn't make much logical sense to put a £200 B+W CP filter on a £100 lens :shrug:


Solid advice, I'm going to try and hunt down a good Marumi CP and a ND grad. If I was going to get another lens, what would you suggest?
 
I was in the same position as you a month or so ago.

I changed from a Nikon D40 to a Canon 40D as I felt the camera was holding me back and not giving me the results I wanted.

I read a lot about how the camera would make no difference but I had decided that I wanted to change and that was all that mattered to me.

All I can say now is I am glad I changed, I have attempted to take the same pictures that I attempted with my D40 and was amazed with the results, I got the results I wanted but could not seem to get with the Nikon D40.

Just my opinion and experience but thought I would share it with you.
 
I was in the same position as you a month or so ago.

I changed from a Nikon D40 to a Canon 40D as I felt the camera was holding me back and not giving me the results I wanted.

I read a lot about how the camera would make no difference but I had decided that I wanted to change and that was all that mattered to me.

All I can say now is I am glad I changed, I have attempted to take the same pictures that I attempted with my D40 and was amazed with the results, I got the results I wanted but could not seem to get with the Nikon D40.

Just my opinion and experience but thought I would share it with you.

Ok, thanks for the feedback. The 40D is quite a step up from the D40 isn't it?
 
Ok, thanks for the feedback. The 40D is quite a step up from the D40 isn't it?

Not sure how you gauge how big a step up it is to be honest, best to give my opinions on what I feel.

For me it has made my pictures way better and I mean way better, put simply for me it is just a better camera which takes way better pictures.

I found it pretty easy to use and get used to, it is a really solid camera and feels like a proper camera in your hand.

Maybe some of that is down to the lenses I have been using but I do not think they would make as big a difference as I have seen, I mean some of my best pictures now have been taken with Canon's cheapest lens, the 50mm 1.8 and I am comparing them to a Nikon 35mm f1.8 which cost more than twice as much and then comparing a 28-135mm canon with a 18-105mm.
 
Not sure how you gauge how big a step up it is to be honest, best to give my opinions on what I feel.

For me it has made my pictures way better and I mean way better, put simply for me it is just a better camera which takes way better pictures.

I found it pretty easy to use and get used to, it is a really solid camera and feels like a proper camera in your hand.

Maybe some of that is down to the lenses I have been using but I do not think they would make as big a difference as I have seen, I mean some of my best pictures now have been taken with Canon's cheapest lens, the 50mm 1.8 and I am comparing them to a Nikon 35mm f1.8 which cost more than twice as much and then comparing a 28-135mm canon with a 18-105mm.

Would you mind linking me to your flickr, would be interesting to see the differences.

Thanks
 
I have not got a flikr account, but I will upload some pics just now so you can see..

Infact I am away from home and I have no pics from the Nikon with me, sorry but will sort it when I get back.
 
The higher your pixel count, the more post-processing you can get away with and still have a decent sized image.

Not true. I think what you mean is the higher your pixel count the more cropping you can get away with and still have a decent sized image (y)
 
I see how the 'field-of-view' terminology could be a little ambiguous but I don't think that sbd123 was meaning to make any reference to field-of-view in a measurement of degrees.
If you are not going to use degrees to measure field of view what would you use? :eek:
 
Thanks for the link there, that's a great deal. In mixed minds now...

There's only one way you're going to be sure and that's to buy some new kit. Then, with hindsight, you'll be able to say whether or not it was the right thing to do.
 
Don't post rubbish as fact?

I have no idea what you are referring to with degrees. :thinking:

I may have my terminology wrong and for that I apologise. I was trying to simplify the difference between cropped-sensor and full-frame for the OP.

It may be more helpful if you replace the incorrect terminology with what it should be rather than having a go? :shrug:
 
I have no idea what you are referring to with degrees. :thinking:

I may have my terminology wrong and for that I apologise. I was trying to simplify the difference between cropped-sensor and full-frame for the OP.

It may be more helpful if you replace the incorrect terminology with what it should be rather than having a go? :shrug:

Yeh and staying on topic would be much appreciated too.
 
Solid advice, I'm going to try and hunt down a good Marumi CP and a ND grad. If I was going to get another lens, what would you suggest?

In all honesty, I can't see any reason why you'd want to upgrade the D40. As I've said, I had a look at your Flickr page and I see some fantastic shots there.

Common sense would suggest glass before body; unless you are seriously limited by the body of your camera. For landscape shots the D40 is ample good.

Just to let you know, I used to shoot (back in 2004) with D70. I had two of these, then I upgraded one of my D70 to a D40 with a manual lens. It means I had a smaller 2nd body to carry, was very lightweight and easy to use. Manual focus prime lens has been the sexiest addition to my kit, it even gets used more than the 24-70AF-S!

So, what would I suggest you get .. I would tell you to get one of the Voigtlanders. The 20mm f/3.5, or the 58mm f/1.4. If you opt for the 20mm then get the Slim B+W CP; if, on the other hand, you go for the 58mm then you can get the normal B+W CP.

Mind you, if you think any of these two lenses & the B+W CP will push you over budget, then get the Voigtlander with a Marumi CP and you'll be amazed at the new possibilities.
 
I have no idea what you are referring to with degrees.
Clearly, since that is how you measure the field (angle) of view of a lens.
I may have my terminology wrong and for that I apologise. I was trying to simplify the difference between cropped-sensor and full-frame for the OP.
You have suggested, and I questioned, the totally meaningless statement that 'So a 50mm lens will have both a focal length and a field of view of 50mm.'

It still won't.
It may be more helpful if you replace the incorrect terminology with what it should be rather than having a go?
To use your own words from that post - 'I suggest you do some reading on the subject, just to help you understand the terminology and technology better. It will be useful in the long run.'
 
In all honesty, I can't see any reason why you'd want to upgrade the D40. As I've said, I had a look at your Flickr page and I see some fantastic shots there.

Common sense would suggest glass before body; unless you are seriously limited by the body of your camera. For landscape shots the D40 is ample good.

Just to let you know, I used to shoot (back in 2004) with D70. I had two of these, then I upgraded one of my D70 to a D40 with a manual lens. It means I had a smaller 2nd body to carry, was very lightweight and easy to use. Manual focus prime lens has been the sexiest addition to my kit, it even gets used more than the 24-70AF-S!

So, what would I suggest you get .. I would tell you to get one of the Voigtlanders. The 20mm f/3.5, or the 58mm f/1.4. If you opt for the 20mm then get the Slim B+W CP; if, on the other hand, you go for the 58mm then you can get the normal B+W CP.

Mind you, if you think any of these two lenses & the B+W CP will push you over budget, then get the Voigtlander with a Marumi CP and you'll be amazed at the new possibilities.

Sorry of this question seems really beginner, but are these lenses are fixed to a single zoom? And I think these may be just slightly out of my price range at the moment. But coupled with a Marumi CP would definately be a great investment compared to a whole new body.
 
Sorry of this question seems really beginner, but are these lenses are fixed to a single zoom?

The lenses Wail has suggested are fixed focal length lenses (otherwise known as prime lenses). A zoom lens is one that covers more than one focal length. :)
 
The lenses Wail has suggested are fixed focal length lenses (otherwise known as prime lenses). A zoom lens is one that covers more than one focal length. :)

Thanks the quick reply. Do these lenses bear any significant advantage compared to zoom lenses?
 
Thanks the quick reply. Do these lenses bear any significant advantage compared to zoom lenses?

In a lot of cases, a prime lens offers a wider aperture (i.e. f/2.8 and below) than a zoom. In some cases IQ is better from a prime however with some zooms the difference could be negligable. You can't generalise, you'll have to state specific models for comparison. :)

Another debate is shooting with a prime...some people love them, some people find them too restricting. For me I prefer using primes however have zooms for when I need them.
 
In the case of the two Voigtlander lenses that I've suggested; you'd have to go a long way to find a zoom that compares to them in terms of Image Quality, plus other lens attributes.

However, that's not where the Manual Focus Prime lens (none-zoom lens) benefits ends. What I like about these is that you can't just aim and shoot. Because it's a Prime lens, it means you will have to walk around to compose your picture; you just don't have the "convenience" of zooming in & out. This gives you a better appreciation for composition. As for manual focus, this makes you think more closely as to what you want to shoot, where you want to focus on, and what you are trying to achieve.

Basically, these types of lenses are superior to most zooms and makes you "slow down" as you compose and shoot. Something, I think, most of us would benefit from :shrug:

They are a bit expensive but well worth every penny.
 
In a lot of cases, a prime lens offers a wider aperture (i.e. f/2.8 and below) than a zoom. In some cases IQ is better from a prime however with some zooms the difference could be negligable. You can't generalise, you'll have to state specific models for comparison. :)

Another debate is shooting with a prime...some people love them, some people find them too restricting. For me I prefer using primes however have zooms for when I need them.

Thanks for the excellent explanation!

In the case of the two Voigtlander lenses that I've suggested; you'd have to go a long way to find a zoom that compares to them in terms of Image Quality, plus other lens attributes.

However, that's not where the Manual Focus Prime lens (none-zoom lens) benefits ends. What I like about these is that you can't just aim and shoot. Because it's a Prime lens, it means you will have to walk around to compose your picture; you just don't have the "convenience" of zooming in & out. This gives you a better appreciation for composition. As for manual focus, this makes you think more closely as to what you want to shoot, where you want to focus on, and what you are trying to achieve.

Basically, these types of lenses are superior to most zooms and makes you "slow down" as you compose and shoot. Something, I think, most of us would benefit from :shrug:

They are a bit expensive but well worth every penny.

Yes, I do see big improvements when I have time to compose my images well. When I have the cash I'll be investing in one of these lenses, most likely the wider one.
 
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