As I get older, I notice that the years fly past much quicker then they used to. This topic seems particularly apt as one year has just ended and another started.
As usual the following rules apply:
- Must be taken by you
- Must be on film
- Must have been taken, developed and scanned prior to...
Thank you for all the votes. I have been taking fewer and fewer photographs these days, as film get more expensive. I have a topic for a new thread, which I will post shortly.
Just make sure that you buy some 60/40 solder on ebay, not the lead free, which melts at a higher temperature and makes it more likely that you will cook semiconductors.
I have an OM1 and 'converted' it to use 1.5v batteries by purchasing an MR-9 battery adapter, which works well of course, but I regretted it only when I realised how easy it is to add the diode myself, there being lots of room under the bottom cover. The adapter is quite expensive ~£30 and I...
There are many professional photographers who would disagree with your assertion, as do I. I have always found my model to be well constructed and reliable. I would choose to take my OM-1 on a lengthy assignment instead of any of my other cameras.
The OM1 is a manual camera, I very much doubt that a capacitor has anything to do with releasing the mirror. You might try wiggling the mirror raising knob, as this might make it come down and avoid wasting film.
I wish people would read the question, before posting an answer. I know about Rodinal and the fact that the coast is low. All I want to know is whether I can get reasonable results with ID-11
I have many rolls of Poundland Vista and have previously eveloped it as B&W in Rodinal with acceptable results. I have a bottle of Rodinal, of which I am slightly doubtful as to its freshness. I have enough ID-11 powder to make 5 litres and this is my preferred B&W developer. Has any member...
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