I have many rolls of Poundland Vista and have previously eveloped it as B&W in Rodinal with acceptable results. I have a bottle of Rodinal, of which I am slightly doubtful as to its freshness. I have enough ID-11 powder to make 5 litres and this is my preferred B&W developer. Has any member here, developed Vista as B&W and had reasonable results with ID-11 or D76?
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Developing Vista as B&W in ID-11, is it possible?
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Tbh I wouldn't worry about the 'freshness' of rodinal, in my experience it lasts forever and a day.
No, it doesn't. It did once, but I know from experience, that it now goes completely off and is then useless.
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Fair enough Nick, I can only speak from my own experience but I do respect yours.
I can't say I've used ID11 or D76 with colour film, it might be worth having a look on the likes of flickr for recommendations?
I assume you are aware that scanning it might be a bit of a pig?
Peter B
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I've not tried it with ID-11, but I used some Adonal (Rodinal) to develop and old roll of C41 film successfully. See this thread for results.
I don't think I'd rush to do it again without good reason, but the results weren't too bad.
I don't think I'd rush to do it again without good reason, but the results weren't too bad.
Asha
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Cross processing / stand development will give you negs that lack contrast.
If you scan and boost the curves in pp then it is possible to obtain reasonable results but you’re unlikely to match those that come from the correct dev process, ie C41
If you wetprint then the negs will prove very difficult to work with I suspect , not that I’ve tried myself.
If you scan and boost the curves in pp then it is possible to obtain reasonable results but you’re unlikely to match those that come from the correct dev process, ie C41
If you wetprint then the negs will prove very difficult to work with I suspect , not that I’ve tried myself.
StephenM
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Never tried ID11 or D76, never cross processed a film, and never used the film you're using. BUT black and white developers differ only in sharpening properties, speed effects and grain size, and otherwise do the same job. All colour films use the same basic emulsion as black and white films, just in more layers and with added layers in the sandwich.
So, in principle the only difference between Rodinal and ID11 will be less visible grain, if the development time is adjusted as the times would, I expect, not be the same.
As to the keeping properties of Rodinal, the final Agfa version was everlasting, but some of the replacements apparently have about a 6 month shelf life.
So, in principle the only difference between Rodinal and ID11 will be less visible grain, if the development time is adjusted as the times would, I expect, not be the same.
As to the keeping properties of Rodinal, the final Agfa version was everlasting, but some of the replacements apparently have about a 6 month shelf life.
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I've used my homebrew parodinal and real ID-11 to dev colour film. Always used the FP4+ times. No problems apart from the extra density of the orange mask when scanning. Did try the bleaching method using citric acid in fixer as Kodak documented. https://web.archive.org/web/2013110....com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/ae31.pdf