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Do you guys not get on with DOT tune then? Maybe I'm tight, but a little trial and error normally nails it in the end.
Nikon D750 & D780
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It's OK, I prefer spyderlenscal although it's ridiculously expensive for a piece of plastic.
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Never heard of it before. Focal was something I came across and for £40 thought I'd give it a go. Seems to work well enough, need to try my other lenses now and Df body.
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That is what I have done at the moment, but never sure if it is correct.
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Do you still get missed focus shots? I think you'd notice. With a couple of lenses I haven't been happy afterwards so have chimped around the value and found the unit I'm happy with. Found the value through dot tune with the 750/58 but the 610/58 didn't play ball so 15 mins of tweaking I got there. Shoot things at normal distances and chimp it.
Just checked the values of those combos, +11 on the 750 and +3 on the 610. I think dot tune is easier to nail the more out it is IMO but generally gets you there. All my lenses front focus apart from the 24-70 on the 610 which is -5. Only ever had one lens 0, which was the 50 Toby bought, perfect on both bodies. Here's my saved values, doesn't make much sense, although the 610 is probably less adrift:
Lens micro adj values
D750
35 +16
58 +11
85 +10
24-70 +12
70-200 +10
D610
35 +11
58 +3
85 +1
24-70 -5
70-200 +2
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70-300's lighterThere's the new Sigma 100-400mm that's only slightly heavier, or get a TC.
True, might see what reviews are like of the new 70-300... or take a peek at the siggy.
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My first D750 front focussed with every lens, some up to +18 (my first 50mm) and the Sigma 85mm more than +20. However, the only lens that needs adjusting now is the Sigma 85mm which needs +3. The 50mm you sold me is spot on
Cages are always a PITA and it's always best to try and remove them as much as possible when shooting, eg get as close to the fence as you can, hope the animal is away from the fence, use a long focal length and wide aperture. However, if you do end up seeing the fence still I use a combination of dehaze brush (if there's no definite outline and just causing reduced contrast) or clone stamp in PS. However, if it's too bad then I just bin it. I'm sure there are some that I've binned that those with better PS skills might have been able to salvage but I neither have the skill or patience. Unfortunately just about all of my Silverstone pics still have a hint of fencing if you look, but it was either put up with this or end up with no pics. Silverstone really isn't the best track to shoot from if you want to be at track level
These were almost ruined by fencing, but with some extreme PP and some patience I managed to salvage them
DSC_5376 B&W Crop by TDG-77, on Flickr
DSC_5263 by TDG-77, on Flickr
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Another good one is the moire interference pattern. No need to even fire a shot. Google Northlight images how to guide.
My D600 needed -25 for my brand new 50 1.8G.
Of course it only goes to -20 so it's never critically sharp wide open unless I manually focus.
I am sending it back so hopefully replacement will be better.
For me however the key to sharper shots was back button focussing. My D600 now focuses 'better' than my D750 did! (Ok it technically doesn't but I wasn't aware/learnt the technique back then.)
My D600 needed -25 for my brand new 50 1.8G.
Of course it only goes to -20 so it's never critically sharp wide open unless I manually focus.
I am sending it back so hopefully replacement will be better.
For me however the key to sharper shots was back button focussing. My D600 now focuses 'better' than my D750 did! (Ok it technically doesn't but I wasn't aware/learnt the technique back then.)
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The only lens I am not happy with is my Tamron 28-75, it has been to Tamron, they found the issue and fixed it. After the fix it is a bit better but I still find that is not as good as either the 28-105 or 70-210 F4 I have which are both old lenses.
It may just be a user error, but thinking may be I should just try out the focal tool, as I do not think I would be able to get the 24-70 f2.8 Nikon anytime soon.
Thank you
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My first D750 front focussed with every lens, some up to +18 (my first 50mm) and the Sigma 85mm more than +20. However, the only lens that needs adjusting now is the Sigma 85mm which needs +3. The 50mm you sold me is spot on
Cages are always a PITA and it's always best to try and remove them as much as possible when shooting, eg get as close to the fence as you can, hope the animal is away from the fence, use a long focal length and wide aperture. However, if you do end up seeing the fence still I use a combination of dehaze brush (if there's no definite outline and just causing reduced contrast) or clone stamp in PS. However, if it's too bad then I just bin it. I'm sure there are some that I've binned that those with better PS skills might have been able to salvage but I neither have the skill or patience. Unfortunately just about all of my Silverstone pics still have a hint of fencing if you look, but it was either put up with this or end up with no pics. Silverstone really isn't the best track to shoot from if you want to be at track level
These were almost ruined by fencing, but with some extreme PP and some patience I managed to salvage them
DSC_5376 B&W Crop by TDG-77, on Flickr
DSC_5263 by TDG-77, on Flickr
Fences were behind another low barrier so couldn't get close enough, especially with 200mm it was challenging. Will wait until I'm home Friday too see how many keepers there are!
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Yeah, usually there's a barrier a few feet from the fence. At 200mm it's going to be tricky to 'hide' the fence, even at f2.8. It can be done if the animal's far enough away but you can still end up with some 'funky' looking bokeh like these
DSC_1783 by TDG-77, on Flickr
DSC_1768 by TDG-77, on Flickr
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Hi Mark,BBF do you mean it helped CF?it wouldn't help with SF would it?
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Hello there,
My main interest is B&W Photography and i would say that this image is perfectly Ok tonally, perhaps lift the mid tones a little to separate the subject from the background. I would be tempted to crop to a 3/4 shot losing the models shoes which are taking my eyes away from the main subject, which would help IMHO
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That's right mate
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I use BBF, but can't see what affect that would have if your lens is slightly out either way?
Worth also using content aware fill too in conjunction with cloning for the fence removal. Small sections at a time.
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It wouldn't mate I was just making a general comment that it can improve hit rate.
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Fair enough. Once you've been shooting like that, difficult to go back to it on the shutter button. I do have it on my quick menu for those moments when someone says, "can I take a pic of you."
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Do you need to ask? I'd take the 750 as slightly lighter too. That's a proper photographers dream destination, still on the list.
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D750 without a doubt.
If you need to shoot fast paced sports from far away and can't stretch to a d5 plus expensive long lenses then a d500 will fit the bill admirably.
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Obviously you will know this already being as you won both, but having owned both myself in terms of sharpness it's about even. The extra sharpness of FF over Crop body is negated by the fact the D500 has no AA filter. The D750 has better noise handling though. There's not a lot in it but the D750 has less noise at high ISO and it's finer/more pleasing imo.
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I need to switch to BBF.
With regards to handing the camera to someone else, if you were turn on BBF and then put the camera in auto would it use the shutter button again as the focus button again or still stay with BBF?
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Why do you "need" to switch to BBF?
I dunno, my feeling is that it would revert to normal but not sure.
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Well i don't 'need' too, but i'd like to.Why do you "need" to switch to BBF?
I dunno, my feeling is that it would revert to normal but not sure.
It does appeal to me that you can press the AE lock for single point focus lock or press and hold for continuous. Been a few times where i've quickly switched focus modes and had it set to AF-A by accident
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Yeah, a lot of people like BBF. It's not something that I tend to use much tbh, guess I'm never in the scenario where I need to switch modes quickly
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It'll stay in BBF
If you want a 'hand to idiot' mode set it up in U1 or U2. Handy to have if you use a remote release too as in BBF mode the camera won't auto focus on half press when using a remote.
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You'll want to keep user modes for overall favourite settings. It's easy to have the setting on your favourites tab.
I think once you use BBF, you won't go back, so intuitive. I think locking AF separately is not so natural.
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A question on AF focus adjust ... I've not yet done anything with it but been reading on the DOT Focus method. One thing I've not found though ... what do you use to focus on? Is there a particular focusing target thats recommended or does it not matter?
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Yes, google focus charts and there's plenty to download
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D
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Bag GAS satisfied. And strap.
Wedding this weekend, city centre venue, cobbled streets. Should be fun.
Wedding this weekend, city centre venue, cobbled streets. Should be fun.
D
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Can you not set the default to say -5, then AF fine tune from there?
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I think when you set fine tune for a lens it overrides the default setting. I could be wrong though
D
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I think when you set fine tune for a lens it overrides the default setting. I could be wrong though
Ah possibly, that makes more sense.
Never tried it tbh