10 stop filter...decisions decisions!

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Lukeeee1990

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Luke
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Looking at purchasing a 10 stop...and B+W springs to mind as the popular choice, but when I need a 77mm fliter, the price is disgustingly high!

Are there any other brands that do the same thing without horrendous quality infringements - i really think this will take the landscape stuff to the next level, coupled with my wide angle

Interested to hear your thoughts guys
 
I paid £73 for my 77mm b+w 10 stopper and that was second hand on ebay, when it arrived it was immaculate.
For me I felt that was a bargain!
If you think b+w is disgustingly expensive don't look at the prices for the lee equivalent.
 
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Ive ordered a Hitech Prostop for about £70, but you'll need the holder and adapter which will be another £50 odd.
 
Don't think you can go wrong looking for a s/h B+W, i know a few who have them including myself and have no complaints.
 
Remember the potential for the sky to be blown still exists, therefore if you want to refrain from software edits you might require an ND Grad in front of the 10stopper to control the sky.

As the 10stop exposure times can be quite lengthy, the ability to hold a Grad infront of the 10stopper for me was too much.

Therefore if you want to go to the next level, it is in reality going to cost you. Get a slot-in 10stopper, holder and adaptor, a Grad or two or three, strength and edge of your choosing.


Andy
 
I would only get a B+W ND110 or Lee Big Stopper - they are the only two I think that are any good. Both will still have colour cast issues. Anyway the ND110 is the cheapest option as you can screw it on the lens, the Big Stopper also has the add-on cost of the filter holder, but does make using ND grads so much simpler, and it's easier to recompose shots on the fly.

As an effect goes it's far too overused at the moment I think.
 
AndyB1976 said:
Remember the potential for the sky to be blown still exists, therefore if you want to refrain from software edits you might require an ND Grad in front of the 10stopper to control the sky.

As the 10stop exposure times can be quite lengthy, the ability to hold a Grad infront of the 10stopper for me was too much.

Therefore if you want to go to the next level, it is in reality going to cost you. Get a slot-in 10stopper, holder and adaptor, a Grad or two or three, strength and edge of your choosing.


Andy
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I have used my grads before on my B+W 10 stop, only problem is I have to go to 12mm+ to stop bad vignetting as the filter holder sticks out a fair bit or when screwed on the end of the B+W.
 
I bought a piece of welding glass and whap that on my wide angle....£2.50 and a pair of elastic bands :)
 
stumeech said:
I would only get a B+W ND110 or Lee Big Stopper - they are the only two I think that are any good. Both will still have colour cast issues. Anyway the ND110 is the cheapest option as you can screw it on the lens,
Click to expand...

Heliopan is cheaper than those two and just as good. I replaced my B&W nd110 with the Heliopan.
 
Mank said:
I have used my grads before on my B+W 10 stop, only problem is I have to go to 12mm+ to stop bad vignetting as the filter holder sticks out a fair bit or when screwed on the end of the B+W.
Click to expand...

Yeah I also use the Lee Wide Angle Adaptor to avoid vignetting on my 10-22 at the wide end.

So not saying it can't be done. You are gonna buy these things for life so I prefer the ease of use over the long term and 'system expandability' potential rather than the cost saving up front.

Not to mentioned the waiting time for the Lee gear, it gave me a chance save up over the 12weeks and when it was ready for dispatch the cash was waiting in the account :thumbs:

EDIT - Do you not have problems positioning the transitional edge of the grad with a screw-in 10stopper? I place this grad first in the outer slot and then check the exposure, when I am happy I'll just slot on the big stopper in the inner slot.
 
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Not really Andy, I tend to take a shot without the 10 stop first and sort of try to remember where it was. I sometimes also lower the f number and bump up the ISO and take a quick 2,3 second exposure to check composition and things rather than taking it all off and recomposing and refitting.
 
AndyB1976 said:
EDIT - Do you not have problems positioning the transitional edge of the grad with a screw-in 10stopper?
Click to expand...

Live-view with exposure simulation can give you a good idea, although it does have some limitations when used with 10-stop NDs.
 
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