135mm or 100mm macro

turnpike

turnpike

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Name
Carl
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I'm thinking about getting a Canon EF 135mm f/2.0 L USM instead of the Canon EF 70-200mm I was discussing a few weeks ago here.

The reason being that I love being able to do shallow depth of field and bokeh on the background.

I love my 50mm f/1.4 and was thinking the 135mm might suit me better provided I am prepared to do without the versatility of a zoom.

However, I've already got a 100mm f/2.8 macro. Does anyone know is there a massive difference (Ignoring the focal range gap)? Especially when it comes to bokeh?

I'll see if I can try them in the shop this weekend but would appreciate any advice. I'd be using it for outdoors portrait or just outdoor static subjects with blurred backgrounds.

Turnpike.

Update, I've just found this which I think might help answer my question. http://www.wlcastleman.com/equip/reviews/85_100_135/index.htm
 
Wide open there will be a difference. 100mm is slightly dreamy wide open and the sharpest at f/5.6-8 while 135mm is very sharp right from f/2. Bokeh is already quite good with 100mm, and it is a great lens.
I've recently got 85mm f/1.8 and love both it and 100. They complement each other.
 
Thanks.

"f/2 and f/2.8 is also much brighter." Are you saying f/2 and f/2.8 on the 135 is brighter than the macro 100mm? Or just that the f/2 of the 135mm means it can be brighter than the f/2.8 of the macro?

Just checking is the f stop the only thing which can make a lens quicker and brighter? Will the shutter speed at f/2.8 on both lens for the same shot be the same?

Any other suggestions for something for street shots to compliment my kit?

I've got 10-22, 50mm and the 100mm macro and just looking at something with a bit longer range but ideally with the bokeh and prime quality of the nifty fifty.

Thanks.
 
turnpike said:
Thanks.

"f/2 and f/2.8 is also much brighter." Are you saying f/2 and f/2.8 on the 135 is brighter than the macro 100mm? Or just that the f/2 of the 135mm means it can be brighter than the f/2.8 of the macro?

Just checking is the f stop the only thing which can make a lens quicker and brighter? Will the shutter speed at f/2.8 on both lens for the same shot be the same?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Ouch something went horribly wrong with that sentence. :cuckoo::bang: f/2.8 will give roughly equal brightness with both lenses; maybe 100mm will have a stronger vignette on FF.

It depends what the lens is for. For planned portraits, 100/135mm are excellent, but for anything more dynamic 70-200 is the best tool. If you are more into wildlife then consider 300mm f/4 IS.
 
Thanks again daugirdas. I thought that's what you meant :-) but I wanted to be sure about my assumption that at a given aperture, different canon lens will bring in about the same light and have the same speed.

Chris that's interesting. I'm on a 1.6 crop sensor now (450d) so the 135 would be longer. I'm happy with the 50mm or even 100mm macro for portraits. I shouldn't have said portraits when talking about the 135mm. I guess I meant candid, at slightly longer range. Urban life, that sort of thing.

I'm not into wildlife especially. I'm just taking pictures of people or places.

I know the 135 is a little too long on a 1.6 for indoors but that's ok for me. Especially as I'll probably end up getting a full frame in years to come.

I want something longer range and shallow depth possibilities, but in comparing 70-200 zooms and the 135 I've much preferred what I've seen on the fixed for my taste.

I'll let you know what I go for after trying them. Cheers!
 
turnpike said:
to be sure about my assumption that at a given aperture, different canon lens will bring in about the same light and have the same speed.
Click to expand...

Changing lens (Canon or anyone else's) will make no difference to shutter speed for a given aperture, where it changes is where the light distribution around the image is changed because of the focal length e.g. if its backlit and one lens records that whereas another doesnt, think of wide angle against telephoto of a person with a bright background.
The tele will show just face and give you an exposure value based on that image, whereas the wide angle from teh same distance would include the background and therefore affect the metered exposure given by the camera, move the wide angle in close so you only get the face, as per the tele and you will get the same exposure value (unless the sun's just gone in of course :) )

Matt
 
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