400D focusing speed

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neilw

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I recently went to have a go at motorsport Photography for the first time. (Supercars at silverstone)

When I got back nearly all my pictures where out of focus and not sharp, nothing like any of the pics I see in the motorsport section. I was using a 400d and 70-300 IS USM on a monopod.

I set the camera to Servo focusing mode. Could the reason for my pics being out of focus be that the cars where moving too fast of the 400d to keep up with the focusing?

I was using an apeture of around 6 for most of the shots to keep the shutter speed high, also was using a monopod so pretty sure its not camera shake.

Heres a few examples they don't look too bad at this resolution but when a 100% zoom on the original image they are terrible.

IMG_4631.jpg


IMG_4526.jpg
 
Do not get caught up on pixel perfection with motorsport photography at first that will come in time. I use a 450d with center spot focusing, shuter priority (TV), Aiservo mode. Found for when the cars coming head on to have the shutter speed up around 1/1250 and for panning around 1/200 to 1/250 speed. Heres one of my recent ones.

_MG_5695-2.jpg
 
Id give yourself a bit of credit there, i think you have done a really good job for your first time! I struggle to focus on still things like buildings at times!! I can imagine good panning technique will come with a lot of practice. Did you have the IS switched to mode 2?
 
And which focus points were you using - all of them or had you changed to centre focus? I've been caught out in the past using all focus points and the car / bike was slightly out, but the grass was perfect :lol:

You've got a couple of good actions shots there, don't be too hard on yourself :thumbs:
 
Ive never done any motorsport or really fast moving photography, and im the same i get all hot and bothered when i examine my pics and they are not as sharp as the one i have just looked at on here. The only answer is practice and good technique (which comes with practice). As long as you keep enjoying it the rest will come, still wont stop me from ranting when i think all my pics are pants though!! :bang:
 
Don't forget shutter lag! Your camera focuses in AI servo mode until you press the shutter release, then it stops while the shutter opens. A fast thing, particularly moving towards you, will have moved. Its not so bad when using a deep DOF on a panning shot, because the DOF covers you for the limited distance change.

Have a look here for a table of Canon figures and more info:

http://www.impulseadventure.com/photo/shutter-lag.html

Its one of the biggest killers to action photography and when you look at the table you'll see why the 1D Mk IIN is considered to be the sharpest tool for action photography.

There is more to high performance than just lens focus speed and AF system accuracy!
 
And don't forget with your panning, you need to continue to follow the car, even after you've released the shutter button.

Did you try some without the monopod - I find some shots I get better results not using the monopod - I probably need more practice with it :thumbs:
 
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=131364

First of all, forget about a monopod (really used for the large primes and large zooms, we're talking 2.5kg of lens). you can easily hand hold you camera and lens and still get good shots.

First of all he's new to motorsport, so forget shutter speeds to start with. He's got a sports mode on his camera, so I would suggest setting it to that and practice the panning. Have a smooth pan and keeping this motion smooth throughout is way more important than shutter speeds for someone starting out.

Ok, so the sport mode will complete freeze the image, no motion blur etc, but he'll have an idea of what settings (shutter speed) to play with in the conditions and have some images to start with. Once he feels comfortable and get some images he's please with, then switch to the TV mode and play with the shutter speeds.

Personally start at 1/400 sec and slow work down. For cars by the end of the day get down to shutter speeds of 1/150 sec to acheive motion blur, but 1/200 or 1/250 sec depending on where you are and what your taking will still get some motion blur and definitely more chance of a sharp image. For Bikes, I wouldn't go below 1/250 sec, in most cases you may need a slight faster shutter speed.

But the important thing is a smooth panning technique and continue with the motion after you've taken the shot.

Also forget about frames per second and taking a machine guns worth of images, you camera won't keep up with the action, because the subject is constantly moving and the time for you camera to react (although in micro seconds) isn't quick enough to get every shot in the sequence in focus and sharp. Focus on the car, pan with the motion, take 2 or 3 shots per burst allowing time for camera's focus system to catch up, remembering smooth pan and continuing with the pan after you've taken the shots.


Peter
 
Thanks for all the info here. I didn't consider shutter lag, makes sense. I did have a go at panning but need more practace. I can remember If I set the centre focusing point or not, this would of certainly helped.

The shutter lag on the 40D is nearly half that of the 400d and nearly up the with the 1D's
 
neilw said:
Thanks for all the info here. I didn't consider shutter lag, makes sense. I did have a go at panning but need more practace. I can remember If I set the centre focusing point or not, this would of certainly helped.
Click to expand...

The centre focus point is good for pinpointing the action you want to photograph, but you can get away with using all focus points, depends if you have anything between you and the subject that the camera will pick up first. Example, motorbike going around corner, nothing directly infront of you and you can get the bike fully in the frame, then there's no harm in having all focus points switch on to capture the action, but say on another bend, a car coming towards you, then moving away, so distant between you and the subject changes, then a single focus point (not always detectly in the centre) would capture this action better.

First, discard the monopod, practice the pan and think about very short images burst allowing your camera to catch up.

Peter
 
Using all the focus points will slow down the focusing process drastically. Using one point - the centre one on a 400D (the only cross focus point on the 400D) to maximise your chances of success. Also try about f9 to minimise the complexity of it getting the DOF right.

This will increase your chances of success massively...
 
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