70-200 f/2.8 or f/4 for dog agility?

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Adrian
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Would you recommend a 70-200 f/2.8 or f/4 for dog agility and the usual dog pics from the dog club (like training and so on)?

I will be outside when it's good weather but I know they mostly have scheduled trainings up there around 5-8pm so I'm not sure how fast of a shutter speed I would get. But not everyone comes just at those times, some people are there all day.
 
I've had some success with a Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 OS, taking pictures of my own dogs in all types of light. I am still getting to grips with the lens, unfortunately I cannot comment on a F4 and would not swap my 2.8 for anything.

If you look at my Flickr photo stream the whole first page is taken with the Sigma.

HTH

Paul
 
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F2.8 would be my choice.
Dogs running can be achieved at 1/500th but the higher the better. Plus some agility takes place in indoor riding arenas so more light the better.

Oh, and you get better AF with F2.8 lenses too due to more light :)
 
I've had some success with a Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 OS, taking pictures of my own dogs in all types of light. I am still getting to grips with the lens, unfortunately I cannot comment on a F4 and would not swap my 2.8 for anything.

If you look at my Flickr photo stream the whole first page is taken with the Sigma.

HTH

Paul

How do you find the AF speed? That is something I think will be very important for fast running dogs. Photos looks great.
 
If a lot of it is going to be in the evening then the 2.8 would suit better. If you can stretch to a 2.8 get that.

They have official trainings at the evening like once a week at most so 2.8 would not be extremely important but it wouldn't hurt at all getting one, 2.8 can always come in handy.
 
F2.8 would be my choice.
Dogs running can be achieved at 1/500th but the higher the better. Plus some agility takes place in indoor riding arenas so more light the better.

Oh, and you get better AF with F2.8 lenses too due to more light :)

I will not take photos of agility indoors unless I get really interested in it and travel around (we only have outdoor here).
 
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https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.370811083001519.85204.370757023006925&type=3

There are 2 golden retriever shots in the above album, it was coming at me full pelt, I fired off about 6 frames all were keepers these were the best 2

HTH

Paul

One thing I noticed upgrading from the Sigma to the Nikon f/2.8 was the focus speed. The Sigma is grand but since upgrading I very rarely need to use high fps, even when my dogs are running at full pelt. I always thought the Sigma O.S was very good until I tried the Nikon VR2 the focus speed is much better.

Here is a pic of my mad lab at full pelt.


Chester at full pelt by Tommy Blake Photography, on Flickr

The Sigma to be fair is very good value for money.
 
One thing I noticed upgrading from the Sigma to the Nikon f/2.8 was the focus speed. The Sigma is grand but since upgrading I very rarely need to use high fps, even when my dogs are running at full pelt. I always thought the Sigma O.S was very good until I tried the Nikon VR2 the focus speed is much better.

Here is a pic of my mad lab at full pelt.


Chester at full pelt by Tommy Blake Photography, on Flickr

The Sigma to be fair is very good value for money.

SWMBO would have strung me up if I'd bought the Nikon :lol:

Maybe one day though
 
PMSL, I am actually laid up in hospital at the moment, just had a very dodgy gall bladder removed :lol::lol::lol:

Not sure what they are worth on the black market :D

I am sure you could always tell the wife your depressed after your time in hospital and a wee VR2 would cheer you up no end.
 
Any of you tried shooting with a 300 prime? Talking dog agility strictly here.
 
Any of you tried shooting with a 300 prime? Talking dog agility strictly here.

I have often debated getting one. I have had a play with the Nikon 300 f/4 a couple of times. Seems to be a really good lens the a.f is quick but not 70-200 vr2 quick. The extra focal length is obviously an advantage but you then sacrifice the ability to shoot at f/2.8 and the flexability of a zoom. I am sure it would work well on a 2 body set up, not so sure if you could rely on it as an alternative to a 70-200 though.

The only reason I have not bit the bullet on one is that because I already have the 70-200 and could just get a 1.4 t.c which still lets me shoot at f/4 from 98mm too 280mm and and still have V.R.
 
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Question is if I need the IS or not on a 70-200, considering I will shoot only outdoor and during daylight I should get way above 1/500 shutterspeeds. I have tried to turn off the IS on my kitlens but I can see no difference in the viewfinder in terms of shakyness?
 
By the way I realise IS is there to reduce blur on lower shutter speeds but I've heard it's there to steady the VF too.
 
The steady VF is very handy when shooting hand held but of less use when shooting fast moving subjects. An f/2.8 lens can always be stopped down to f/4 when wider apertures aren't needed but an f/4 can't be opened up when they are. A good copy of the Sigma can be very good but as always, test the example you intend to buy to make sure it's a good'un! (TBH, it's a good idea to check any lens you're buying, just in case...)
 
IMO, VR on the 70-200 isn't really needed for this kind of work. It can help with slow SS panning shots though.

Another lens in the price range of the VR2 to consider is the Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8....I'm loving this lens.
 
Looks like I can get a used Sigma 100-300/f4 for $750. I can get the best of both worlds there I think.
 
That lens get a decent write up but 750 sounds expensive.

It's $1500 new here, it's a discontinued lens but buy it new you still get 2 years of warranty and free refocusing if you have that issue.
 
I have just faced the same dilemma. I already own the F4 version but when light was poor really struggled to get the speed required without banging the iso up.
After a long deliberation, reading countless reviews and seeking advice from here, I have just ordered the 2.8 mk2

Steve
 
I decided to buy the 70-200/4 L USM non-IS. If I'm not happy with it I can always sell it off because L-glass seem to keep their value really well.
 
I decided to buy the 70-200/4 L USM non-IS. If I'm not happy with it I can always sell it off because L-glass seem to keep their value really well.

your right, I have that same lens and I usually just stick my camera in Shutter priority with 1/1000 and auto iso with evaluative metering on, it turns out pretty well tbf e.g.


IMG_0050.jpg by ChristianJ-R, on Flickr
 
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