A Question for the HDR Gurus

You have to decide at conception to shoot HDR, because you need 3 images.
Either that, or you shoot 3 images of everything regardless :LOL:
 
joxby said:
You have to decide at conception to shoot HDR, because you need 3 images.
Either that, or you shoot 3 images of everything regardless :LOL:
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Some people bracket anyway.

With Photomatix though you can create you over and under shots within the program and to be honest it`s better this way in some respects as you don`t get any alignment problems.

I just wondered if people were able to see what would make a good HDR before clicking the shutter, I suppose the obvious thing is a high contrast shot.
 
Just Dave said:
you can shoot one raw image and then in camera raw generate the 3 exposure images, then HDR them and tone map
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You're not getting anywhere near the amount of dynamic range than you would with 3 seperate bracketed raw files. That's just cheating.
 
Just Dave said:
yep always shot on a tripod but still never aligned proper, I used Petes HDR tutorial Clicky Linky and it works OK so Im happy
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You could use your cameras auto bracketing feature and then use the alignment feature in Photomatix to ensure the individual exposures are aligned.
 
Grant said:
You're not getting anywhere near the amount of dynamic range than you would with 3 seperate bracketed raw files. That's just cheating.
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So using a Nikon that brackets within the camera using just one shutter actuation is cheating also is it, or is there a difference. Why is there a difference in dynamic range, I don`t really understand the procedure really.
 
Just Dave said:
How do you do that please
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Create 3 identical files with your current editing software and load all 3 into Photomatix and create HDR. Photomatix will then tell you that the exposures are the same and would you like to bracket, and it gives you 1/3 stop increments right up to 4 stops, set your desired figure and create from there. (y)
 
chilliz said:
So using a Nikon that brackets within the camera using just one shutter actuation is cheating also is it, or is there a difference.
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does it? i think you'll find it takes multiple shots mate not just one
 
chilliz said:
Create 3 identical files with your current editing software and load all 3 into Photomatix and create HDR. Photomatix will then tell you that the exposures are the same and would you like to bracket, and it gives you 1/3 stop increments right up to 4 stops, set your desired figure and create from there. (y)
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Thanks I just open raw in up in camera raw and save the file as a Tiff, then -2 exposure save that as a tiff, then +2 and save that as a tiff then merge them in Photomatix job done

chilliz said:
You can use RAW and still auto bracket :)
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I know
 
chilliz said:
So using a Nikon that brackets within the camera using just one shutter actuation is cheating also is it, or is there a difference. Why is there a difference in dynamic range, I don`t really understand the procedure really.
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Indeed, you're limited to the dynamic range captured in that particular shot, which can miss out on highlight detail, shadow detail, or midrange detail, depending on the settings you used in your shot.

A RAW file isn't a magic file that captures every single minute detail in the shot. If you bracket your exposures, you're having 3 RAW files capture 3 distinct areas in the shot. a single RAW file for the shadows, for the midtones and for the highlights. All together encompassing a lot more data/detail.
 
Grant said:
Indeed, you're limited to the dynamic range captured in that particular shot, which can miss out on highlight detail, shadow detail, or midrange detail, depending on the settings you used in your shot.

A RAW file isn't a magic file that captures every single minute detail in the shot. If you bracket your exposures, you're having 3 RAW files capture 3 distinct areas in the shot. a single RAW file for the shadows, for the midtones and for the highlights. All together encompassing a lot more data/detail.
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I think I understand, it looks like I may get better results with my tripod then.

I`ll get there eventually :)
 
i have achieved great results with hand holding as photoshop does a great job of aligning them, and i use high speed shutter to minimise movement, but theres nothing you can do about moving objects such as trees being blown in the wind or people ect. sometimes though you can use this to make an style or special effect like this one below

disney.jpg
 
cannockwolf said:
i have achieved great results with hand holding as photoshop does a great job of aligning them, and i use high speed shutter to minimise movement, but theres nothing you can do about moving objects such as trees being blown in the wind or people ect. sometimes though you can use this to make an style or special effect like this one below

disney.jpg
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That`s a belter (y)
 
cheers pipe, i deliberately tried to make this more saturated and cartoony, well its Disney init! :D
 
I have noticed on some HDR conversions from 1 image there are some small white patches, this I take it is because there is no detail in one of the images with the changed exposure?
 
dont you think it has a surreal look?
 
Nah. I know the look you're going for but the people here aren't smooth. Its too disruptive, too much like double vision.
 
Just Dave said:
I do and I like it, its a pity though the peps are blurred, but I suppose it adds to the atmosphere of the day,

chilliz I might give the 3 raw files a whirl today, on a tripod, auto bracket, (y)

and repeat again also with mirror lock up,
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I never thought about mirror lock up, a great idea. :)
 
I had a thread a couple of months, about HDR, and not aligning properly, its always been my main bugbear, and always suffer from it dont know why, tripod cable release the lot, here's a couple of examples of mis-alignment, I thought I maybe taking the images to rapidly, and that was causing the movement, the only thing I didnt try was mirror lock up and as there stationary the milli seconds lapses between each exposure wouldnt matter as much I dont think

#1
2832994370_a28a1664f4_o.jpg


#2

3042815439_c7424544f3_o.jpg
 
Interesting & informative thread.
Lots of info /ideas for virgins like myself - Cheers all.

cannockwolf - Like that result !
 
Just Dave said:
I had a thread a couple of months, about HDR, and not aligning properly, its always been my main bugbear, and always suffer from it dont know why, tripod cable release the lot, here's a couple of examples of mis-alignment, I thought I maybe taking the images to rapidly, and that was causing the movement, the only thing I didnt try was mirror lock up and as there stationary the seconds lapses between each exposure wouldnt matter as much I dont think
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Just a thought, it could be Photomatix being funny. If you've taken the shots on a tripod and you know none of the surroundings haven't moved you can untick the alignment in Photmatix, even if it's fine it seems to attempt to re-align things for no apparent reason. It took me a while to work out what was going wrong but it worked for me :).
 
petemc said:
Nah. I know the look you're going for but the people here aren't smooth. Its too disruptive, too much like double vision.
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fair enough :)
 
Mr_T said:
Just a thought, it could be Photomatix being funny. If you've taken the shots on a tripod and you know none of the surroundings haven't moved you can untick the alignment in Photmatix, even if it's fine it seems to attempt to re-align things for no apparent reason. It took me a while to work out what was going wrong but it worked for me :).
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Thanks i did once do that, but turned it back for some reason without really experimenting with it :bang: I'll give it a go (y)
 
I have just spent the last couple of days trying other HDR software, and I think Photomatix seems the best to use (can`t comment on PS as I don`t have it) Dynamic Photo HDR came a close 2nd but not as easy to line up the images. Anyone else tried DP HDR?
 
i find PS is the best for making the HDR files the alignment tools does a good job, i then use the photomatrix plugin, but the .hdr file saved in PS can be loaded into the stand alone version of photomatrix too
 
Dave if you've shot using a tripod and cable release then in Photomatix I'd select the alignment using X and Y axis, not by feature. Perhaps that would help? Maybe worth a try.

===

General comment I'd make is that people appear to be suggesting you only need three raws. Surely this depends on the dynamic range you are trying to capture? If you are capturing bright lights in an otherwise very dark (night) scene you may need more than three raws at +/- 2ev to capture the entire range of tones. Just my 0.02c
 
Thanks mate, but I dont use bracketing, just generate from 1 raw file so theres no prob with alignment, but I'll bear it in mind if I ever change to bracketing (y)
 
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