Adventures in a (fairly) dark room - or making prints without a dark room

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sue
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Having built a darkroom - and tried printing - I just got hooked on making my own photo paper using old processes. So a few months ago I built a darkroom in my garage, got an enlarger and some paper and had a go at printing my own pictures. And I must say it's good fun.

As it turns out it takes about £20 in chemicals and paper, a piece of cardboard and some bulldog clips, a good sunny day and you can make magic happen in front of your eyes... and you don't even need a darkroom - subdued daylight indoors will do!

So I thought I'd share my adventures so far for the amusement of others.
First - cyanotypes, or sun prints, or blue prints!

Get a good recipe.

My shopping list of ingredients:
200g Potassium ferricyanide - £6.50
100g Ferric ammonium citrate - £9.00

Those ingredients will give you enough to coat over 100 A4 sheets. And some cartridge paper from an art shop - an A1 sheet to cut up cost 75p.

When you're ready mix up your stock solutions of each chemical (which you can store to save for next time), combine a bit of each in a pot, brush it thinly on a piece of paper and let the paper dry in darkish conditions - indoors or subdued daylight is fine.

To print, put your negative (or print a picture onto an acetate sheet) in contact with it, hold it down with a couple of bulldog clips, and leave it in the sunshine. Areas exposed to light go from pale yellow to dark green quite quickly - and within 10 or 20 minutes turn gun metal grey. It's like magic in front of your eyes! At that point take your cyanotype paper and run it under the tap for a couple of minutes. That will turn the exposed bits bright, prussian blue, and the rest washes away leaving the white from the paper :)



If the garish blue gets on your nerves, soak it in strong tea for half an hour - the blue turns almost black :woot:





I've also tried salt printing, which requires table salt, silver nitrate and hypo (sodium thiosulphate) as a fixer.
Something went a bit wrong :thumbsdown:



But I have had the odd good result (y)



I think the problem was due to being too cautious about light and trying to coat the paper under darkroom conditions. It turns out to be almost impossible to evenly spread a transparent liquid on a sheet of paper in the dark when you can't touch the paper as the silver nitrate solution will turn your fingers brown. 10 brown fingers later :bang: I decided to try it with more light so I could see the wet sheen on the paper. but I've decided I don't like this process much.


Fortuantely you can get a similar result with the Van Dyke process (very similar to the salt process, but needs ferric ammonium citrate and tartaric acid as well). This gives lovely results - like a platinum print so I'm told.



And you can use it to print on cloth too. I'm planning a few T shirt designs already.

All of these don't require a full dark room - a standard garage with the door shut will work fine. If you need a touch extra light use tungsten rather than fluorescent, as most of the processes work on UV light which you don't get from tungsten light.

I'm planning on trying gum bichromate printing - which just needs some potassium dichromate, PVA glue and poster paint - then I can print using any colour I like. The odd other ingredient from tescos opens up lots of other types of printing too:

eggs for glossy albumen printing
ground arrowroot (99p from Tescos) with eggs to make matt albumen prints
dried milk powder for casein printing

In all, I've spent £60 on chemicals, £20 on paper and reused old spoons and bottles for chemicals, and can try about 10 alternative processes and print hundreds of A4 sheets - much cheaper and more experimental than normal darkroom stuff. And I've got some lovely brown fingers (and plastic gloves on the shopping list).
 
brilliant Sue , can you actually print onto the treated paper with an enlarger as per " normal "?
 
brilliant Sue , can you actually print onto the treated paper with an enlarger as per " normal "?

I don't know. The van dyke is the fastest paper I've made so far, and it still takes about 5 minutes in sunlight to expose... so I guess half an hour under an enlarger might do it? I'll let you know when I've tried it! Otherwise I'll keep trying different formulas till I have one fast enough.

Then I can also make prints from my camera obscura - which is where my whole dark room adventure began.


Wow, looks great. Love the tea one and the 'Van Dyke process' one. (y)

Thanks Messiah Khan. I can highly recommend havng a go :woot:
 
Tea toned cyanotypes (plus the normal Prussian Blue type) are my favourite alt process, followed by Van Dyke brown prints.

I find my tea tonings go a distinct purple colour before going black which is the stage I pull them out at. It is actually a stable result in cyanotype as well as the tannin reacts with the iron as opposed to simply staining the print as with some other processes

The is an alternative cyanotype recipe which is quicker but I've not had much luck with.

Also for getting your negatives sized up Lee at togsprint is looking at printing onto transparent media as well as paper, meaning you dont have to buy an A1 printer to do large prints

One thing i would say is use good paper for your final prints. cheap paper is great to learn on but is generally packed with stabilisers and other chemicals which over time will degrade paper and the image. Plus there is a massive range of paper types out there, all of which effect the final image and gives you near endless possibilities to create a unique finished article

Great work and love the examples.

BTW, an enlarger really wont work with these methods, it requires lot of UV light which your enlarger wont pump out. You can make a UV hood to do consistent printing (especially in the summer) or you can just use the sun
 
Unfortunately not as it needs ultra violet light.


Steve.


Ah of course. And I guess fluorescent bulbs for enlargers don't really exist.

Well I have recipes for normal photographic paper emulsions which I guess should work better. And some liquid emulsion (LE30) in case my chemistry isn't good enough.
 
Ah of course. And I guess fluorescent bulbs for enlargers don't really exist.

You could put a UV bulb in an enlarger but the glass of the lens blocks most of the UV.

A pinhole in place of the lens might work but it would probably take much longer than using the sun!


Steve.
 
Tea toned cyanotypes (plus the normal Prussian Blue type) are my favourite alt process, followed by Van Dyke brown prints.

I find my tea tonings go a distinct purple colour before going black which is the stage I pull them out at. It is actually a stable result in cyanotype as well as the tannin reacts with the iron as opposed to simply staining the print as with some other processes

The is an alternative cyanotype recipe which is quicker but I've not had much luck with.

Also for getting your negatives sized up Lee at togsprint is looking at printing onto transparent media as well as paper, meaning you dont have to buy an A1 printer to do large prints

One thing i would say is use good paper for your final prints. cheap paper is great to learn on but is generally packed with stabilisers and other chemicals which over time will degrade paper and the image. Plus there is a massive range of paper types out there, all of which effect the final image and gives you near endless possibilities to create a unique finished article

Great work and love the examples.

BTW, an enlarger really wont work with these methods, it requires lot of UV light which your enlarger wont pump out. You can make a UV hood to do consistent printing (especially in the summer) or you can just use the sun

Got this book as a guide, which has a couple of pages on "appreciating paper". As well as the cartridge, I've got some Saunders Waterford hot pressed and rough (90lb weight), and some Fabriano NOT (cold not hot pressed) 300lb weight. The pictures are on a selection of them.

What I'm not sure of is how these will cope with time - many recipes say wash in running water for 30 mins - I'm on a water meter so that's never going to happen. So I am trying soaking for five mins, change water and repeat a number of times. How many times I need I just don't know. They've lasted a week so far, and counting....
 
You could put a UV bulb in an enlarger but the glass of the lens blocks most of the UV.

A pinhole in place of the lens might work but it would probably take much longer than using the sun!


Steve.

So looking quite difficult! Think making photo emulsion that reacts to normal light is the way to go then!
 
Would converting a lightbox with UV tubes work as a consistent indoor UV source, rather than using sunlight ? Just place the Acetate negative and the sensitised paper on top switch on and bob's your aunties significant other.
 
brilliant Sue , can you actually print onto the treated paper with an enlarger as per " normal "?

Would converting a lightbox with UV tubes work as a consistent indoor UV source, rather than using sunlight ? Just place the Acetate negative and the sensitised paper on top switch on and bob's your aunties significant other.


Certainly the book talks about using a UV lightbox as an alternative to the sun. However you still need a contact negative (like an A4 acetate) and so can't "enlarge" from a normal film negative like a darkroom enlarger - which is how I interpreted donutagain's question.

So, for me, Bob's back to being some lonely random bloke hanging around the peanuts at the family christmas party, and giving my aunt some funny looks.
 
Certainly the book talks about using a UV lightbox as an alternative to the sun. However you still need a contact negative (like an A4 acetate) and so can't "enlarge" from a normal film negative like a darkroom enlarger - which is how I interpreted donutagain's question.

So, for me, Bob's back to being some lonely random bloke hanging around the peanuts at the family christmas party, and giving my aunt some funny looks.

I'd thought that it was a contact process - so provided you had a suitable A3+ printer and could source mahoosive acetates you could get upto A3 ish... That'd do for me - don't have much wall space left in my study :LOL:
 
Those are some great prints, really inspiring :)
 
I'd thought that it was a contact process - so provided you had a suitable A3+ printer and could source mahoosive acetates you could get upto A3 ish... That'd do for me - don't have much wall space left in my study :LOL:

Got A3 printer and permajet photo acetate "paper" to make my fake contact negatives... then as you say it's a case of wall space.

Think could do traditional process by enlarging onto lith film to use as contact negative but still not gotten my head around that one :help:
 
Acetate blocks UV so is not a great negative substrate. I am attempting something like this (but radically different in terms of what I am printing) but still have a need to generate a positive on glass.

..d
 
Just happened on this thread.. looks quite interesting, you could probably source an electronic circuit board exposure box for doing small stuff.....
 
Wow ... I came over all excited about trying some of this. !

it seems Retrophotographic.com is no more, so It'll be a hunt for some of the chemicals I guess :|
 
Wow ... I came over all excited about trying some of this. !

it seems Retrophotographic.com is no more, so It'll be a hunt for some of the chemicals I guess :|


Silverprint do have them... it was mentioned in the thread they only have one.... they have both but the second one is with the other ammonium citrates.
 
To print, put your negative (or print a picture onto an acetate sheet) in contact with it, hold it down with a couple of bulldog clips, and leave it in the sunshine.

Sorry for silly question, but does the final prints are only contact print size? (like 35mm film would only give 36x24mm prints?)
 
Sorry for silly question, but does the final prints are only contact print size? (like 35mm film would only give 36x24mm prints?)

You can make them as big as you like if you have the enlarger, I believe the prints above where done with an enlarger so will be bigger than 35mm
 
You have to enlarge the negative to the size you want to print.

The contact print will be the same size as the negative used to create it.
 
Silverprint do have them... it was mentioned in the thread they only have one.... they have both but the second one is with the other ammonium citrates.


just checked - seems like good prices too
 
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