Advice for starting in macro photography? - Extension tubes or close up filters?

MrNicholas

MrNicholas

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Nick
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The generally gist of my problem is this: I want to try macro photography as its something I've never done. The kit I own (18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 and 55-300mm f/4-5.6) is excellent kit IMHO but doesn't focus at close distance. The 55-300 which I see myself using for macro stuff has a minimum focus distance of 1.4m. I've looked into cheap options to deal with this and have come with a few possible options.

A. a close up filter
B. extension tubes
C. Attach the lens in reverse with an adapter.
(D. Buy a macro lens for lots of money and live in greater poverty because i'm a student)

I really do not like the sound of option C, seams foolish to me to expose the camera end of a lens to the world as its the hardest end to clean and could result in extra dust being introduced to the sensor when the lens is used normally again. Option A seem like a good idea, it allows for auto focus and does't involve changing lens if the 55-300 is already attached but I suspect will introduce distortion and aberrations. And finally option B, which is so far my favourite, doesn't create aberrations or distortion (as no optics are included) so creates the best image and isn't specific to the diameter of the end of the lens but doesn't allow for auto focus at the price I would be willing to spend at this point. If I find macro shots to be something I wish to do regularly enough and I get on with extension tube's I would fork out for autofocus once's since its still cheaper than a macro lens.

So I feel I've done some good research and am leaning heavily towards extension tubes but before I spend any money I would like to ask if any macro photographers have any advice or guidance they are willing to give as to which option is best. I know for many people such purchases might not be quite so significant and would consider just buying one to see if it works, however on a student budget I do not have to financial freedom try multiple systems.

Thank you in advance for any advice, Nick
 
While the filter solution is usually the cheapest of the options you want to try, good ones (the Raynox ones are supposed to be very good) can be fairly expensive. Macro tubes, even the cheap ones, work very well and would be my choice - not sure if you have classifieds access here yet but have a look, there might be a set for sale here or they turn up fairly often at 2nd had dealers. Personally, I would save a little longer and get the ones with the electrical contacts - not so much for AF as for retaining aperture control on lenses without aperture rings. While the electrical ones are a bit more expensive, if you find some 2nd hand, you'll probably be able to sell them on if you decide that Macro isn't for you or if you get a "proper" Macro lens.
 
What Nod said. The filter option is a cheap fix, but fiddly and with reduced image quality. Extension tubes are also fiddly but will at least retain quality.
 
The Sigma 50mm EX DG MACRO lens is a good option for starting out in macro. It's relatively inexpensive and there is a used one for sale in the classifieds section for £140 I think? (Nikon fit). The lens will allow you to shoot up close and it also doubles as an excellent portrait lens when barrel not extended.

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/sigma-50mm-ex-dg-macro.510235/
 
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Nod said:
While the filter solution is usually the cheapest of the options you want to try, good ones (the Raynox ones are supposed to be very good) can be fairly expensive. Macro tubes, even the cheap ones, work very well and would be my choice - not sure if you have classifieds access here yet but have a look, there might be a set for sale here or they turn up fairly often at 2nd had dealers. Personally, I would save a little longer and get the ones with the electrical contacts - not so much for AF as for retaining aperture control on lenses without aperture rings. While the electrical ones are a bit more expensive, if you find some 2nd hand, you'll probably be able to sell them on if you decide that Macro isn't for you or if you get a "proper" Macro lens.
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Thank you for your advice. I had not considered the aperture control, I can see that being as issue since DOF is an issue in macro stuff. I'll have another look today at extension tubes and see if I can pick up some second hand ones with electronic contacts.
 
Nod said:
While the filter solution is usually the cheapest of the options you want to try, good ones (the Raynox ones are supposed to be very good) can be fairly expensive. Macro tubes, even the cheap ones, work very well and would be my choice - not sure if you have classifieds access here yet but have a look, there might be a set for sale here or they turn up fairly often at 2nd had dealers. Personally, I would save a little longer and get the ones with the electrical contacts - not so much for AF as for retaining aperture control on lenses without aperture rings. While the electrical ones are a bit more expensive, if you find some 2nd hand, you'll probably be able to sell them on if you decide that Macro isn't for you or if you get a "proper" Macro lens.
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This makes a lot of sense to me, and may well be your best way forward. Some additional thoughts.

As I understand it (I have never used a dSLR or tubes) you would best use tubes on your 18-55. On the other hand filters (which I use) will I believe work best on your 55-300. No preference here - just an observation.

You can get a 58mm (for your 55-300) close-up filter set for as little as £8. These filter sets typically have four lenses. The strength of close-up lenses is measured in diopters, the larger the number of diopters the stronger the lens. Close-up filter sets typically have a +1, +2, +4 and +10 diopter lens.

You do get what you pay for. Each of these lenses is made of a single piece of glass and is likely to produce significant distortion, including chromatic aberration.

The more expensive close-up filters, known as achromatic close-up lenses (“achromats”) are made of two or more pieces of different types of glass which work together to counter the aberrations. You can get very nice results with these more expensive close-up filters. I use them mainly on super-zoom bridge cameras which presumably have optics which are not so good as your zoom lenses, and which have a sensor only 1/12 the size of the sensor in your camera, with significant consequences for image quality. Nontheless, I get results like this, so if you did use an achromat you should be able to achieve very respectable image quality with your kit.

(For 1100 pixel high versions, click on image, right click and select Original)

Canon SX10is with Raynox 150 or 250


0505 2 IMG_4374-Edit-2 PS1 PSS3 by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


Panasonic FZ200 bridge camera with Raynox 150 or 250


0505 5 P1040035-Edit-2 PS1 PSS3 by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


Panasonic G3 micro-four thirds camera with Raynox 150 or 250 on probably 45-175 lens


0505 1 P1460054-Edit-2-Edit PS1 PSS3 by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


As John says though, cost may be an issue with achromats. Many people use just one achromat, but you might end up wanting more than one.

Popular achromats include the Raynox 250 (which is +8 diopters and costs about £42), the Raynox 150 (+4.8 diopters, about £43), the Marumi DHG 200 Achromat Lens (+5 diopters, the 58mm version costing about £55), the Marumi DHG 330 Achromat Lens (+3 diopters, the 58mm version costing about £57), or the Canon 500D (+2 diopters, the 58mm version costing about £74). [The Raynox lenses only come in one size and have a spring-loaded lens-holder which lets you attach them to lenses of 52-67mm diameter. Or you can use step rings, which is what I do, because the setup is more robust.]

What strength of achromat you would need, and whether one would be enough, depends on what you like to photograph, and how close up you want your close-ups to be, and you may not know that until you have tried!

That could be an argument for getting an inexpensive filter set just so you can get your head around the strength issue, accepting that the images you get are not going to be wonderful. It should also give you an indication of a rather important question, as to whether, when you get down to trying it, you actually like doing close-ups. If the answer is “no” then it will have been an inexpensive way to find out. If the answer is a very big “yes” (and for some people close-up work is addictive, be warned), then that might influence which way you decide to go.

Some other thoughts about achromats/close-up filters.

The Raynox lenses have a narrow diameter and you may get some vignetting at the wide end, although I suspect that you might not get any, or not much, with your 55-300. (I don't get any with a 45-175 on a micro four thirds camera.)

You retain autofocus with achromats. This may or may not matter. Most people don't use autofocus for close-ups. (I do, almost always, but I have the impression I am very much in a minority.)

With achromats you don't have to take off your camera lens out in the field to change your lens/tube arrangement, which for me at least is an issue in pollen-laden and otherwise mucky environments.

Despite its length, none of this is a recommendation that you should use close-up lenses, of either the cheap or more expensive variety. Tubes may well be the way for you to go.

Depending on how close-up you want to get, subject matter, location (e.g. subjects out in the open versus – often for me – subjects within foliage and/or under tree cover), time of day and the vagieries of UK weather and cloud cover, getting enough light on to the subject may be a signficant issue. It is another topic, but be aware that there are less and more expensive ways of addressing that issue too, so you might want to add that into the equation before deciding what to do by way of optics.
 
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As you'll almost certainly be focusing manually you could look at old manual focus macro lenses which you can attach to your camera via a suitable adapter.

Adapters can be found on ebay from £5 and a good legacy manual lens can be had for a reasonable price (anything from £30-£100.)
 
GardenersHelper, Thank you very much for your response. Your photo's with close up filters are far better than I even considered possible with a close up filter. I think that my first purchase will be cheap close up filters (which will not be as good as your but will help me get a feel and taste for it). Then, if I always use the same filter and/or lens then I may go for an expensive filter, or electronic extension tubes if I use a variety as they seem better for stacking etc. I like woof woof's idea too, if and when I decide to move up to decent macro gear, I will defiantly look to see what is in the market for legacy macro lens, if its going to be the same price and I'm not using autofocus then its defiantly a viable option.

Thanks again to all that replied, It's been very insightful to hear your advice and I defiantly feel more confident purchasing macro equipment now. Look out for macro shots from me soon ;).
 
MrNicholas said:
GardenersHelper, Thank you very much for your response. Your photo's with close up filters are far better than I even considered possible with a close up filter. I think that my first purchase will be cheap close up filters (which will not be as good as your but will help me get a feel and taste for it). Then, if I always use the same filter and/or lens then I may go for an expensive filter, or electronic extension tubes if I use a variety as they seem better for stacking etc. I like woof woof's idea too, if and when I decide to move up to decent macro gear, I will defiantly look to see what is in the market for legacy macro lens, if its going to be the same price and I'm not using autofocus then its defiantly a viable option.
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Sounds like a good move. The cheap filters will also give you some insight into the issue of getting enough light onto the subject and related matters of flash/tripod/ISO/aperture/shutter speed/stacks and post processing.

MrNicholas said:
Look out for macro shots from me soon ;).
Click to expand...

I will. Have fun!
 
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