Advice for using ND Grad filters

macs

macs

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Name
Rich
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Hi, I have a set of grad filters but whenever I use them I tend to not be able to correctly expose for the shot. I just don't seem to be able to get the perfect balance in the sky and foreground.

I won't bore you with the process I use, but what is the correct process for taking a meter reading with an ND grad filter on? How to get a good exposure in just one shot, rather than taking several and blending in PP?

Also, how do you know what density of filter you should be using?

I take mainly landscape shots.

Any advice would be great, thanks.
 
meter using matrix point to the sky then point to the ground the stop differance between the 2 is what stop grad to use.
 
I used to:

Spot meter the two different dark and bright areas using a slightly grey/off white area
Work out the difference in stops
Attach the required filter
Set up exposure for the darkest area
Take the shot

Now, understanding the light a bit better in a scene, 9 times out of 10 I can get away with:

Using evaluative metering, with the grad fitted, and metering for the final scene and take the shot without having to worry about metering twice.
 
You'll get used to doing it by eye in time.

In the meantime I agree with what graphilly above says, though I usually allow a stop between the two eg if the difference is 3 stops I use a 2 stop grad which allows for the fact that the sky is usually brighter than the ground.

The histogram is your friend with grads, if you haven't already learn how to read it, it'll make sure you're not blowing your highlights or blocking out your shadows. Also liveview if you have it makes the job a lot easier as you can see where the graduation sits on the scene.
 
I don't understand the problem. If you were shooting a normal scene with a dark thundery sky, you wouldn't bother to meter the sky and foreground, you'd just take the shot as normal. Using a grad is no different.

Also, the strength of the grad varies according to focal length (its shows darker with wider angles) and also aperture - higher f/numbers harden the grad line.

It's easy enough to guess what strength is needed with a bit of practise, not that there's usually much choice unless you've got a full set of them. Just fit the grad, position it as best you can and take a shot, then adjust accordingly.

But as a general comment, understanding the histogram is always a very good plan (not at all difficult) and having blinkies enabled (highlight warning) is invaluable.
 
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