Advice on a mirror less

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Daniel
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Its a long time since I've been on here but I'm looking for some advice on a mirror less setup.
I currently have a 550D normally paired with a 15-85mm lens but I'm in the market for something a little more compact and lighter. I mainly use it when travelling but find sometimes it's a bit of a chore lugging it around.
I don't need the best camera in the world but would like a solid entry that's going to last me. I'm not ready to become a compact or phone user plus I've got a nice tax return that my wife doesn't know about :)
 
Well I've moved down under since I first joined this forum so conversions might not be correct but I would say up to £900 preferably less though.
The budget isn't fixed though I could go over if it was worth while to do so.
I'm never going to be a great photographer I mostly like taking good quality photos whilst traveling and occasionally having a play to try and do something more creative.
 
A couple of nice ones are the EM10MK11 if you dont think you will need CAF or the Panasonic GX80 or 85 (same camera depends where you live) if you want CAF.
 
The thing to realise is that if you want good CAF then you need the newest top of the range mirrorless cameras which still aren't cheap.

If virtually instant SAF is good enough then you're in business, I like m43 cameras as they have great IQ and due to the slightly smaller image sensor the lenses are smaller too so the whole package is nice and small, the EM10ii is a lovely camera.
 
I'll suggest Sony A6000 with Sony 16-70mm or 18-105mm and get the kit lens 16-50mm for when you want it to be really small.

On a (not so) recent trip I carried A6000 with Sony 16-70mm and nex7 (for IR) with Sony 10-18mm in jacket pockets. One in my hand or around my neck and other in jacket pocket. In the spare jacket pockets I carried Sony 35mm and Samyang 8mm/2.8 fisheye.
 
I'll suggest reading plenty, handling as much and making your own decision. They're all good, some better than others and some with features others won't have.

Ultimately, people will likely recommend whatever they use. Choose your own path :)
 
I've been around the houses trying to find a lighter weight 'travel' camera instead of lugging my D750 around, my conclusion after trying several systems and compacts was the m4/3 is the best compromise between size and weight. I opted for the Em1 with 12-40mm f2.8 which isn't exactly compact, but noticeably lighter than my D750 with a comparable lens. The Olly setup is pretty much the same weight as my D750 body only. Another system worth looking at is the A6xxx, has the APS-C size sensor and decent tracking AF. I just don't get on with the grip/ergonomics or controls of the Sony though. One thing that I did find is that if you start going too small it gets fiddly and not a joy to use imo, especially the 1"compacts.
 
Used Fuji X-T2 or X-T20 - fantastic cameras.
Used X-T2 would be over budget but the X-T1 and X-T20 are very nice cameras. I just didn't get on with the Fuji rendering.
 
There are a couple of cameras that I think are absolute bargains, the Sony A6000 and the Panasonic GX80.

I have the GX80 and they also do a very nice little 14-42mm kit lens which is sharp from wide open and the size of a prime lens. I think that that kit lens and a compact f1.8 prime could cover what I need 99% of the time.

Good luck choosing.
 
Start with a Fuji X-E2 and 27mm for compactness then see if you want or need a bigger lens; if so the Fuji 18-55. You should be able to get the lot within budget if you're careful.
 
very nice little 14-42mm kit lens which is sharp from wide open

Wouldn't it start to lose sharpness if you stop it down due to diffraction especially at the long end where its f/5.6?
You haven't got much of a choice but to shoot wide open.
 
Wouldn't it start to lose sharpness if you stop it down due to diffraction especially at the long end where its f/5.6?
You haven't got much of a choice but to shoot wide open.

As there isnt much between mft and apsc ypu could say that about any variable aperture zoom for these systems and for one inch and smaller too but in real world use diffraction is rarely a killer issue.
 
As there isnt much between mft and apsc
1 stop difference between these two and 2 stops difference between MFT and FF. Whether that's much or insignificant difference is up to the individual to decide really.
 
1 stop difference between these two and 2 stops difference between MFT and FF. Whether that's much or insignificant difference is up to the individual to decide really.

Having owned them all I can tell you it just isnt worth worrying about... mft is fine in reality at f1.x to f8 no matter what the 1 or 2 stop theory says.

Extreme pixel peepers, test chart viewers and theory pushers will never be happy and will be constantly changing kit.
 
Having owned them all I can tell you it just isnt worth worrying about... mft is fine in reality at f1.x to f8 no matter what the 1 or 2 stop theory says.

Extreme pixel peepers, test chart viewers and theory pushers will never be happy and will be constantly changing kit.

I think you are assuming I haven't owned them all :p :D

I have shot and will probably continue to shoot past diffraction fstop limits when I feel necessary. But loss in sharpness due to diffraction still holds true.
 
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I think you are assuming I haven't owned them all :p :D

I have shot and will probably continue to shoot past diffraction fstop limits when I feel necessary. But loss in sharpness due to diffraction still holds true.

MFT f8 100% crop...

View attachment 104144

I've shot MFT at f16 without issue and APS-C at f32 etc... and you know what, no one has ever said "woof woof, that shots ruined by diffraction" :D

Diffraction is IMO overrated as a problem :D
 
i suggest comparing 100% of landscapes rather than close-ups. Lot of my close up and macro shots are shot f/16-22. Here getting the extra DoF trumps the diffraction.

As I said I shoot these apertures myself but diffraction is real its not a myth. It helps to understand where it comes into play and where it won't, also how to best work with it.

I've shot MFT at f16 without issue and APS-C at f32 etc... and you know what, no one has ever said "woof woof, that shots ruined by diffraction" :D

probably because they said "Alan, that shots ruined by diffraction" :D :p
 
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I've read a few reviews and I'm going to get a few in hand tonight.
Probably leaning towards an A6000 I think it will be enough for my needs to be honest. I'm not going to sell my DSLR so I will still have options.
 
MFT f8 100% crop...

View attachment 104144

I've shot MFT at f16 without issue and APS-C at f32 etc... and you know what, no one has ever said "woof woof, that shots ruined by diffraction" :D

Diffraction is IMO overrated as a problem :D
yep. lots of concern over diffraction and yet we see plenty of wide open overdone bokeh examples which are just as impacted but are passed off as 'style'. lol
 
I picked up an A6000 with 16-50mm kit lens for $750Au (after $100 cash back from Sony) I could have spent more but I think for my needs and my ability this will be enough. Plus I have plenty of money left to buy some more glass if I want.
I have also kept my DSLR setup as the return from selling it wouldn't make it worthwhile selling it.
Has anyone purchased any batteries with a charger from eBay? If so are they any good?
 
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I picked up an A6000 with 16-50mm kit lens for $750Au (after $100 cash back from Sony) I could have spent more but I think for my needs and my ability this will be enough. Plus I have plenty of money left to buy some more glass if I want.
I have also kept my DSLR setup as the return from selling it would make it worthwhile selling it.
Has anyone purchased any batteries with a charger from eBay? If so are they any good?


Lots of people swear by Expro batteries if you're looking for non-OEM ones. I've had a few and they aren't as good as the originals but they are much cheaper and decent enough.
 
Yeah, I'm with these guys - X-T20 with with 18-55mm, I don;t personally have that lens but understand its very good and is well within your budget second hand and just a bit over new (from such as DigitalRev, but as you;re down under I've no idea what an import is to you :))
 
Yeah, I'm with these guys - X-T20 with with 18-55mm, I don;t personally have that lens but understand its very good and is well within your budget second hand and just a bit over new (from such as DigitalRev, but as you;re down under I've no idea what an import is to you :))
I found the 18-55mm f2.8-4 an excellent lens, one of the best so called kit lenses I've used. In fact I'd go as far to say it's one of the best short zoom lenses I've used. My only 'gripes' with it were that I wished it was 16mm at the wide end and that it was weather sealed, but obviously I understand why it wasn't ;)
 
I would recommend going down the Fuji route also.... its a very good system and ticks a lot of boxes.
Fuji XT-20 and the 18-55mm lens.
This lens should never have had the term kit assigned to it :D
 
the expro ultra whites are easily a match for official batteries ime
 
I picked up an A6000 with 16-50mm kit lens for $750Au (after $100 cash back from Sony) I could have spent more but I think for my needs and my ability this will be enough. Plus I have plenty of money left to buy some more glass if I want.
I have also kept my DSLR setup as the return from selling it would make it worthwhile selling it.
Has anyone purchased any batteries with a charger from eBay? If so are they any good?


I find the battery in the Sony A6000 lasts well, could be worth looking at one of those small portable power banks you can get in Maplin for about £30 instead?

Also, I can thoroughly recommend the Sigma 30mm f1.4 lens. Excellent value and great quality. Focusing is pretty quick with it also.
 
I find the battery in the Sony A6000 lasts well, could be worth looking at one of those small portable power banks you can get in Maplin for about £30 instead?

Also, I can thoroughly recommend the Sigma 30mm f1.4 lens. Excellent value and great quality. Focusing is pretty quick with it also.

I took the camera out last night to Sydney Vivid light festival. It was a date night and the place was totally swamped so I never got chance to do anything fancy but I did notice the battery dropped much faster than what I'm used to on my DSLR. Not that I wasn't expecting it or that its a negative but I think I'm totally going to need a couple of spares. I use it most when travelling and I don't want to forget to charge it one night and then not get through the next day.
 
I took the camera out last night to Sydney Vivid light festival. It was a date night and the place was totally swamped so I never got chance to do anything fancy but I did notice the battery dropped much faster than what I'm used to on my DSLR. Not that I wasn't expecting it or that its a negative but I think I'm totally going to need a couple of spares. I use it most when travelling and I don't want to forget to charge it one night and then not get through the next day.

With mirrorless you learn to keep the camera switched off when not in use, their stamina is based on time switched on more than number of shots taken.
 
With mirrorless you learn to keep the camera switched off when not in use, their stamina is based on time switched on more than number of shots taken.

Yeah I can see that. I need to get used to the time delay from turning on to being good to go as well. I found that frustrating but nothing time won't fix I'm sure.
 
I don't know the Sony, but on mine I can set it so it only uses the evf and only then when I put my eye to it, that and as said get used to switching it off and the battery life isn't as bad.

And as you say carry spares, unless it's a very short outing then I'll carry three
 
You can set either screen or evf with the Sony or have it in auto mode using the eye sensor, but I do wish it wasn't a menu function and had a physical button for it. I prefer the evf and only use the screen if getting down low for children or dogs.
 
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