another wireless trigger Q

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Mark
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Simple really, I want to be able to use some cheap old flashguns on wireless triggers. So I need the trigger receivers to handle >>12V

I want to do this using my Oly e-510 which has a max trigger voltage of 6v so the transmitter trigger voltage must be 6v.


I'm possibly being rather feeble about finding the info but will the Cactus V2 (not the V2S which I understand to not handle high voltage flashguns) be OK?

Or do I possibly need to mix different bits like a v2s transmitter and v2 receivers (if indeed I can do that?)

thanks
 
Can you use optical triggers for some of them? They are VERY cheap and utterly reliable, you only need to plug them into your synch lead for them to work.....and you can make a little glass dome point anywhere you like if it is on the end of a wire! Blue tack works wonders on a the leg of your light stand. Or just leave it lying around, provided the light collecting dome can see ONE of the other flashes it will fire.
 
The trouble with optical slaves is, they are pointless in the sun as they can't tell between sun light and flash. They work best at night or in poor lighting

The only way to truely get them to fire right is to buy radio triggers

Three to pick from

eBay Slaves - cheapest
Skyports
Pocket Wizards -££££££
 
The sun does NOT fire a slave - it is the burst that fires it, not just the light. The only time you might get false firing is if a tree was waving its branches in front on a very bright day. The answer is simple, flag the slave dome.
 
Lensflare said:
The sun does NOT fire a slave - it is the burst that fires it, not just the light. The only time you might get false firing is if a tree was waving its branches in front on a very bright day. The answer is simple, flag the slave dome.
Click to expand...

Not true

I have used them and this happened to me. The slaves trigger when they get a change in the light around the slave. Therefore on bright days the slave has trouble telling the difference even from a few feet away.

I had three different slaves, different brands and this happened to all of them. This is the main problem with optical slaves.

I tried loads of different ways of trying to get the slave to fire, then I cut my losses and bought Skyports and have looked back since. 100% fire, longer range and don't even have to be in the same building for them to fire!!!:nuts::nuts:
 
If you flag the slave in those times, they will pick up the flash from at least 20 yards (60 feet) - i used them the other day in Ireland when there wasn't a cloud in the sky, just bare, pointing at the main flash. They worked 15 years ago, and they still work today.
 
OK thanks - I'll look at optical triggers as well.

Still leaves the question though - what about using old flashes with high trigger voltages - will they fry the optical triggers?
 
Nope because the optical trigger just uses your synch lead, thats it - plug in the slave and it will fire when your main flash goes off.
 
OK - cheers.


//off to look on fleabay
 
Lensflare said:
Nope because the optical trigger just uses your synch lead, thats it - plug in the slave and it will fire when your main flash goes off.
Click to expand...

Confused :shrug:

"Optical Triggers" are just that, when the master flash fires, they react and fire the flash that's mounted on them.

So why do you need a sync lead ????

I have 2 optical slaves, which I trigger from the pop up flash set to -2 FEC, and they work great. You just have a little "trial & error" to set up the exposure.

Steve
 
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