Any colour blind photographers out there?

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how do you correct for colour casts that you cant see? i usually rely on the camera to set the wb and leave well alone but some of my shots have a tint (so others tell me). anyone help?
 
Looking at some of the posts on here I'd say 70% of them are........... no offence..........tee hee.
 
how do you correct for colour casts that you cant see? i usually rely on the camera to set the wb and leave well alone but some of my shots have a tint (so others tell me). anyone help?

like your avatar...looks like my brother sid..

if you cant see the cast and others can...you may need to have someone audit your pp...before printing
 
I went through my life thinking I was slightly red green colour blind However a recent test showed I was 100% ok.
When I tried to be a cadet in the merchant navy I failed the colour test ... Red and green sailing lights at 3 miles. My problem it seems was that I could not define the light at all. ( I needed glasses)
 
I am a little bit.
Sometimes see yellow as green, red as purple but only when they are very close to the other colour.
 
I am also slightly colour blind. It must be really slight though because never had a problem with PP - well not regarding casts at least.
Colour codes on resistors with that light blue body caused me some grief; was it a red or brown stripe? Redundancy solved that issue :)
 
Yep I'm seriously red/green colour blind and its a real pain. I posted a black and white film shot last week which apparently had a pink tinge. I couldn't see it but when I converted it to black and white (again) it was definitely different.

Andy
 
Looking at some of the posts on here I'd say 70% of them are........... no offence..........tee hee.

Beat me to it!
 
[QUOTEIn that last test on the page you link to, I see a 2 and a 5. What does that mean? ][/QUOTE]

colour blind in one eye?
 
Dont get confused with that link, it is not a colour blindness test but a colour perception test which is totally different.
Colour blindness tests are judged using wire tests, lantern tests etc. Theres about 5 tests in total.
 
Dont get confused with that link, it is not a colour blindness test but a colour perception test which is totally different.
Colour blindness tests are judged using wire tests, lantern tests etc. Theres about 5 tests in total.

but it is the only one everyone uses for 'colour blindness' tests in the nhs etc

fwiw I am supposedly red/green colour blind but can do at least half those tests and have passed the lantern test - and more importantly for me can distinguish between red and green nav lights when I'm sailing

as for the other comments about how it affects your PP skills I find the best thing to do is to go away and come back a couple of days later.

When I do that I see a huge difference in my perception between what I thought was ok and what I think when I come back refreshed
 
A few real answers for you...

1 - work in B&W!

2 - learn to colour correct by using a McBeth chart. Photograph a McBeth at the start of the shoot - then if you change location etc - do it again. For a studio session you could shoot the card - or a grey card at the beginning of each lighting change.

Simple read the values of the square - and then change to get them to where they should be. At it's simplist, the 18% patch should have value of 119 - the black of 40 and the white at 235 (as you will get things brighter than the white square, and blacker than the black square. All the 3 channels - red, green and blue should be the same. If you do that you have the colour balance, contrast and exposure correct!
 
Looking at some of the posts on here I'd say 70% of them are........... no offence..........tee hee.

So I guess it doesn't matter then ;)

Graham

nb I'm a graphic designer and slightly colour blind. I can't draw either. I was asked to retouch out a brown leaf from an area of foliage - and could not for the life of me find it - but then asked a friend! That's what friends are for.
 
A few real answers for you...

1 - work in B&W!

2 - learn to colour correct by using a McBeth chart. Photograph a McBeth at the start of the shoot - then if you change location etc - do it again. For a studio session you could shoot the card - or a grey card at the beginning of each lighting change.

Simple read the values of the square - and then change to get them to where they should be. At it's simplist, the 18% patch should have value of 119 - the black of 40 and the white at 235 (as you will get things brighter than the white square, and blacker than the black square. All the 3 channels - red, green and blue should be the same. If you do that you have the colour balance, contrast and exposure correct!

thanks David, a practical solution to my problem :thumbs:
 
A mate of mine is pretty much totally colourblind... But is an awesome photographer!!

And in my AS class he has the best pictures for rich beautiful colours... I find it really strange. And hardly ever shoots in black + White!!
 
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