Anyone got the Neewer Carbon Gimbal Head?

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Nick
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Hey guys, so I’ve got the Neewer carbon fiber gimbal head and it’s lovely for the price, apart from the grease they use.. I’m wondering if anyone else has taken the base of it apart because I’m not sure how to get the plastic cap off and don’t want to damage it? Also, what kind of grease should I reapply so it’s not stuff and sluggish anymore?

Thanks for any help
Chilt
 
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@sk66 re-packed another make of fluid gimbal head a while back, so I have flagged him here and maybe he can give you some insight???
 
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Chilt
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@sk66 re-packed another make of fluid gimbal head a while back, so I have flagged him here and maybe he can give you some insight???
Thanks mate, on the picture it shows a visible screw on the base but there’s like a plate or something on mine which stops you from getting inside it :(

Thanks
Chilt
 
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I repacked a Gitzo GHFG1 (fluid gimbal) with Molykote 33 medium... but it is expensive stuff and probably excessive for a standard gimbal head. You could use any silicon grease, but you don't want to use somethng too thin as it probably doesn't have any seals to prevent it leaking out.
The plate may screw on, but more likely it just snaps in place. My understanding is the later Neewer/Beike heads have an aluminum cover which is harder to pop off, but I've not messed with one personally. Under that you'll find a single screw that holds it all together. It's not very big (~10mm), but it probably has some form of thread-locker on it.
 
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Chilt
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I repacked a Gitzo GHFG1 (fluid gimbal) with Molykote 33 medium... but it is expensive stuff and probably excessive for a standard gimbal head. You could use any silicon grease, but you don't want to use somethng too thin as it probably doesn't have any seals to prevent it leaking out.
The plate may screw on, but more likely it just snaps in place. My understanding is the later Neewer/Beike heads have an aluminum cover which is harder to pop off, but I've not messed with one personally. Under that you'll find a single screw that holds it all together. It's not very big (~10mm), but it probably has some form of thread-locker on it.
Thanks for getting back to me, the grease suggestion is a big help as I didn’t have a clue where to start! Haha, as for the cap, I’ve tried forcing it open with a knife on a tiny edge but no luck, I literally have no idea how I’m going to get it off! Haha!

Thanks again
Chilt
 
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You might be better off leaving it alone unless the grease is really way too thick. The reason I got the Gitzo fluid gimbal head is because some drag/resistance is a good thing.
 
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Chilt
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You might be better off leaving it alone unless the grease is really way too thick. The reason I got the Gitzo fluid gimbal head is because some drag/resistance is a good thing.
like don’t get me wrong, it’s usable, but in the cold it does stiffen up quite a lot, also, another quick question..

I have a sigma 150-600mm and for some reason.. the screw keeps coming loose, also I need a long plate, can you recommend any? Or any tips so the screw doesn’t come lose so my camera isn’t luring around haha?

Thanks
Chilt
 
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like don’t get me wrong, it’s usable, but in the cold it does stiffen up quite a lot, also, another quick question..

I have a sigma 150-600mm and for some reason.. the screw keeps coming loose, also I need a long plate, can you recommend any? Or any tips so the screw doesn’t come lose so my camera isn’t luring around haha?

Thanks
Chilt
Normally you leave the plate on so when you get your long plate put some double sided tape on first this helps stop the twisting and loosening of the screw .
Rob.
 
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like don’t get me wrong, it’s usable, but in the cold it does stiffen up quite a lot, also, another quick question..

I have a sigma 150-600mm and for some reason.. the screw keeps coming loose, also I need a long plate, can you recommend any? Or any tips so the screw doesn’t come lose so my camera isn’t luring around haha?

Thanks
Chilt
there are several on Amazon, most quite cheap.
 
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like don’t get me wrong, it’s usable, but in the cold it does stiffen up quite a lot, also, another quick question..

I have a sigma 150-600mm and for some reason.. the screw keeps coming loose, also I need a long plate, can you recommend any? Or any tips so the screw doesn’t come lose so my camera isn’t luring around haha?

Thanks
Chilt
I'd get an arca swiss compatible replacement foot for $20.
 
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I had one of them a couple of years ago ,I don’t really know what they pack them with it’s definetly not grease more like a type of silicone . I couldn’t find a way into it at all .
The only solution that worked was to fit the camera and lens and swing it round the full 360 degrees several times as this seems to loosen it up a tad .beware as well the filling does tend to leak out and it’s sticky .
I finally gave up on it and aquired a jobu junior gimbal which is far superior .. another good mid range one is I believe called a movu or movo available on Amazon
 
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I have a sigma 150-600mm and for some reason.. the screw keeps coming loose, also I need a long plate, can you recommend any? Or any tips so the screw doesn’t come lose so my camera isn’t luring around haha?

Thanks
Chilt
I have got the exact same issue with a long Arca Swiss mount on my Tamron 150-600. Tow options and I've gone for option one for now .

#1: strip of double sided tape between foot and plate,

#2: I may in the future drill a second hole & tap is for a second tripod screw





#2 would be my preferred option as I wold then be able to remove & refit the plate if required and I would also be able to drill & tap other items for specialised brackets etc.

Arca swiss plates come in various different lengths up to 350 mm.
 
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I have got the exact same issue with a long Arca Swiss mount on my Tamron 150-600. Tow options and I've gone for option one for now .

#1: strip of double sided tape between foot and plate,

#2: I may in the future drill a second hole & tap is for a second tripod screw





#2 would be my preferred option as I wold then be able to remove & refit the plate if required and I would also be able to drill & tap other items for specialised brackets etc.

Arca swiss plates come in various different lengths up to 350 mm.
For #1 you can apply rubber grip tape to the arca plate instead (sold for cell phones/guns/skateboards)... not the sand type though.
For # 2 you ideally want to tap it to accept a SS thread insert.
Also make sure the attaching screw(s) are not too long. It's uncommon, but if even slightly too long you'll never get it tight enough... a bit short is better than a hair long.
 
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For #1 you can apply rubber grip tape to the arca plate instead (sold for cell phones/guns/skateboards)... not the sand type though.
For # 2 you ideally want to tap it to accept a SS thread insert.
Also make sure the attaching screw(s) are not too long. It's uncommon, but if even slightly too long you'll never get it tight enough... a bit short is better than a hair long.
tried #1 and it wasn't totally successful
I have a variety of screws but mostly use the standard one and keep the longer for specialist mounts which I tend not to use now as I've converted almost everything to Arca Swiss including my camera harnesses.

The SS insert is a good idea, will look in to doing that.

Forgot to say that I have more plates than I need so rarely take them off the cameras etc.
 
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@Chilt I received my carbon fiber Neewer gimbal head yesterday, and was trying to figure out how to take the cap off as well. I finally figured it out, so thought I'd share. TOTALLY worth it, by the way!

1. The small circular cap is on by a strong adhesive, so you'll want to heat it up. I boiled a pot of water, let it cool down a bit (didn't want to test the carbon fiber) and submerged the end for about 45 seconds at a time.
2. When you put it in, you'll see air bubbles escaping from the small circular cap. Keep note, because that's where you're going to want to pry (yes, pry). You're going to have to make a small mark in order to get it off, because the cap is soft metal, sorry.
3. Once out of the water, wedge your flathead into the spot where you saw the bubbles, and begin prying (I recommend using the smallest flathead you have vs a knife, because of the amount of force needed. I went as far as to file mine down for a thinner/sharper edge. You only have a couple of minutes at a time to pry, so act quickly and carefully. It WILL come off with persistence, I promise! The heat also loosens the main bolt in the base!

Five recommendations when working on yours...

1. Plan on spending 2-3 hours working on it. I didn't want to break mine so I it took slow and spent about 3.
2. Use paint thinner (I used an odorless version from Sunnyside) to break up the factory lubricant. Worked like a charm.
3. Wear gloves! The factory lubricant does NOT come off easily with soap and water.
4. Remember where the spacers and bearings go. There are only three sets (each containing two spacers and a bearing), and I still had to watch a couple of video to make sure I was putting it back together properly.
5. I used Lucas White Lithium Grease. It might have been a little over the top, but it worked well. The base now spins freely and smoothly, and the pivot nearest the camera, while still not as "spinny", is 10 times better than it was before.

Good luck!
 
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