Ahhh crap just found this about the screwfix stuff. Looks like its not for constant heat just to fireprotect something for short times. Or am I reading it wrong
Richard King said:
Thank you that looks good espeially for the heat (2000c) now were talking. But there is no mention of it being water resistant that I can see
Mahoneyd187 said:Anything you get will be a bodge to be fair, as well as being waterproof,and heatproof, it also needs to bond well enough and strong enough to take the pressure of the head of water above. Also, just to feel the leak you implied it was extremely tight and awkward (grazed knuckles), so getting enough sealant on it and around it is really gonna be difficult. I know it's easy for me to just say, but your best bet really is a replacement, or at least a repair from somebody qualified (never repaired a heat exchanger on a gas boiler and personally would advise against it anyway)
If you bodge it, it leaks again but worse, you go downstairs one morning, water everywhere, home insurance may be void because you've attempted a repair yourself and you've flooded the house. Nightmare scenario I admit
Feel sorry for you for the time of year especially
Splog said:Most are water based and therefore not a good idea, the Pyro-Putty® 1500 looks the best contender as it isn't but I have no experience of it whatsoever so can't really comment
I know someone who can probably help with this, I'll give him a call tomorrow for his suggestions.
Dogfish_magnet said:Some mapp gas and a brazing rod ?
I actually did think of something like that (but did not know its name) but would the rod stuff not re-melt with the fire heat?
your looking around 650 -> 800 deg melting point depending on the rods you use

I understand your logic but that isn't correct. The water only has a split second to heat as it goes from the return,through the heat exchanger,and out the flow. You may be surprised at how hot the surface of a heat exchanger gets, certainly higher than 100c.
And regarding boiling,water can only boil if its vented to atmosphere, there is usually/shouldn't be, air in a heat exchanger. If you get air in a heat ex, you're hear localised boiling, hissing, and kettling.
If it is anywhere near the water then it will not be that hot as the water conducts the heat away. The water is going to boil at 100 C so the temperature of the ironwork is not going to be that much higher.
In fact there will be a temperature gradient between the surface next to the water which assuming the water is at atmospheric pressure will be a little above aprox 100C and the surface nearest the heat source. The hottest point near the fire is not going to be that hot or it will oxidise too quickly giving the heat exchanger too short a life.
Whilst assisting our facilities people with a problem with one of the heating boilers at work I did a bit of research into the sealant they needed and found that the manufacturer's recommendation was up to 200C. The product I suggested if good to 350C. The Draper point (that's when it starts to glow red hot) is only 525C.
Helping people? :bang:
Get somebody in who knows what they are doing.Get it mended properly.
Is your life and your dependants worth the risk?
Get somebody in who knows what they are doing.Get it mended properly.
Is your life and your dependants worth the risk?
+1,000,000
Forums are often a dangerous thing when it comes to "DIY", lots of DIYers with the power of "google" can mean big trouble.
Get a gas boiler plumbed in, if I was local I'd do it for you for less than £2000. And yes I have my ACS and I'm qualified to work on practically every natural gas and lpg appliance ever made![]()
Have you asked in your local plumbers merchant store? They may be able to recomend something.
Self tapping screw dipped in high temp sealant (That SX fireguard stuff I've used before when working with solid fuel stoves on boats) would be my temp solution if I couldn't weld/braze the actual; firebox for any reason.
TBH and even with your circumstances ANY kind of work on a gas appliance can leave you open to prosecution if anything goes wrong - law states that only a qualified gas engineer can work on a gas appliance.
Have you tried a couple of small fan heaters - these put out heat quite quickly and are thermostatically controlled and can heat up even a large room very quickly.
And electric blankets can heat a bed up before getting in then can be set to a low setting to keep sleepers warm all night even in a cold room.
And if and when you get a new boiler I would strongly recommend getting insurance for it from British Gas etc - it can save a fortune in the long run.
.
Peter - Good advice for a GAS user - but not really relevant for a solid fuel burner
John,
Totally understand your frustrations, I've had to tell more people than I can remember that their boiler is broken, or dangerous with parts no longer available and beyond repair. I totally understand the implications for you, especially with children in your care.
I'm being sympathetic when I say, your perseverence to find a temporary solution is commendable, but with little access to this leak, an inability to take it apart safely, and a struggle to find something to stop this leak with, that will actually work, using your time and energy at the moment might be better spent finding an alternative solution to your temporary heating. LPG gas heaters, electric heaters, oil radiators and so on...
I know it's not what you want to hear mate, seriously I'm not trying to upset anyone, but think about the implications if this self repair doesn't hold and you get a further leak over night.
I'll leave you be mate, wish you the best of luck with finding a solution either way and hope it doesn't ruin xmas for you and your family.
Kind Regards
Danny