Auto focus or manual focus?

Absolutely none.

AF will beat manual for speed and accuracy every time, any time.
 
I've never used MF and don't expect to. I'm sure my camera can do a better job than my 50 yo eyes.
 
surely, it must have benefits!!

:thinking:

It cant be just a useless option on ALL serious cameras?

Can I give my input here, and I hope its OK, as I'm a total novice photographer...

I recently purchased a Micro 4/3rds Panasonic G2 system with a 45-200mm zoom lens, which is equivalent to 90-400mm on 35mm.

My first tests with the lens were on birds in the trees around my house. I immediately faced a problem with focusing...

Most of the time the camera would AF on a tiny twig or branch crossing IN FRONT of the bird, and put the bird out of focus. Even twigs beside the bird would mistake the AF sometimes.

A gentleman on DPreview forums advised that I switch AF-MF ON, so that after the camera does a quick AF, I can further fine tune my focus using the MF ring on the lens, hence focusing on EXACTLY the point and level I want!!

Tried it...and it worked like a charm..

Voila...!!

:thumbs:

A good use for MF, albeit SLOWER, and wouldn't be optimum for any thing fast moving...
 
Main time I found MF useful was photographing scenery through the (dirty) window of a train. Camera wanted to focus on the glass, but I was able to counter this with MF.
 
sure, I experienced this on a m4/3 with Conrtast Detection AF and not the established Phase Detection AF on the proper D-SLRs...
 
oymd said:
Most of the time the camera would AF on a tiny twig or branch crossing IN FRONT of the bird, and put the bird out of focus. Even twigs beside the bird would mistake the AF sometimes.
Click to expand...

Might have been attribuatable to the AF mode you were set to (multi-point). Switch to single (centre) point, half depress the shutter release with the bird in centre frame to focus on the bird, then recompose before releasing the shutter.

Of course, if there's leaves fluttering about in front of your target you might still miss the bird, in which case focussin gonce and using focus lock or even MF might be the way to go.

Also, not all lenses like having the user manually focus if the AF motor is still engaged (i.e. lens is in AF not MF mode). Best to check before you mash the gears!
 
Llamaman said:
Main time I found MF useful was photographing scenery through the (dirty) window of a train. Camera wanted to focus on the glass, but I was able to counter this with MF.
Click to expand...

exactly my point....

I guess MF is most important when something is in the way to your main object of interest, especially when its far away...
 
Llamaman said:
Also, not all lenses like having the user manually focus if the AF motor is still engaged (i.e. lens is in AF not MF mode). Best to check before you mash the gears!
Click to expand...

its in the manual...its an option on the m4/3 systems to fine tune with the MF ring when AF is working...

it even magnifies the image on the LCD and EVF to help with the MF!

another example is when at the Zoo. With all birds/monkeys etc in cages, AF sometimes struggles with the wire mesh in front of the birds...again, i fine tune with MF..

Of course, these r my experiences and possibly partly due to my lack of experience...
:)
 
Peter10d said:
If you shoot in low light or a take long exposure then MF is a must.
Click to expand...

Low-light maybe, definitely if you're shooting with slow zooms

Long exposures it's not necessary; you can let the camera latch onto the focus then switch it to MF purely to lock the focus point?
 
I had the use of a Nikkor 500mm f/4P last year - MF was the only option. I had some very good results with birds in flight, and despite being au fait with the workings of my camera and AF lenses for such subjects I quite enjoyed going 'retro'.
 
1. Horses for courses: I've missed some shots with MF lenses where an AF lens would have got the subject in focus with ease. Landscapes, macro, portrait are areas where MF lenses are entirely useable.

2. Training aid: until I got hold of an AF confirm enabled lens-body adapter I'd stayed well clear of full manual control of the camera, tending to inhabit Av and Tv settings. Now I'll grab full manual with confidence and ease.

3. Value for money: how about a 1.4 50mm lens for under a hundred? 135, 200mm and other lenses in f/2.8 for similarly low money compared to modern AF prices? Okay you might be looking at older technology but which of us is shooting for NASA?
 
I've been playing about with MF and had all but given up- this thread has given me some good ideas! Thanks.
 
The only lens I shoot AF with is my 300/4L. Everything else is MF and I have no issues whatsoever, much like all those who did the same for the 70 years or so before AF came along :lol:

I think the specific areas where MF is superior have already been identified e.g. macro and shooting behind bars / into trees etc. For everything else, the majority of people will prefer AF, certainly for ease of use if nothing else.
 
I think the difference between old cameras and now is that viewfinders are darker since the AF sensor needs some light and modern cameras don't, as standard, include focusing aids such as split screens.

I use AF over 95% of the time. MF is for cases where AF isn't working for me.
 
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