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Back to basics
- Thread starter JSER
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I have my eye on an F2 now, fingers crossed.
I remember going into Duvalls, Hounslow l o n g ago for my new F, and the salesman asking me "the NEW F2 has JUST come out, would you rather have that".
NO, my dream was the F, however now I am looking at the F2 simply because to find a Photomic working head for an F is sooooo hard.
I had the GT, another camera that sone sc&*%$£ stole, I went to the camera club way back with it and took it from my shirt pocket than attached a flashgun
excalibur2
My F4's Broken...
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Should get VG results from it, I looked it up and it has a respectable Xenar lens and in 1963 was £63.9.5 well the 5p was worth something in those days
I also had a Rollei SL66, beautiful engineering and also had a 250mm sonnar lens to go with the 80mm Planar...but that all went for an ETR as I had an interest at the time for indoor groups and portraiture in my heath Robinson home studio with semi pro flash units and my home made stand for holding up background paper
..the Rollei SL66 had to go as the flash syn was 1/30 sec and the Tele Rollei 150mm TLR although with Sonnar lens wasn't as versatile as a RB67.In hindsight I should have kept both Rollei's as an investment but with children, mortgage etc didn't have the money.
Yeah. Even the legendary Nikons are starting to fail now, and it's not going to get any better. I've often wondered - whimsically - how difficult it would be to rebuild the heads and the other components. I suppose just about anything's possible - you could probably build a Nikon F/F2 from scratch if Nikon would allow you to, and you had the right tooling - but I doubt if it could be done at any sensible price point, and there could be all sorts of technical problems that I haven't a clue about.
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Bouncing this back up because I was over in Kent today meeting the very skilled Miles Whitehead to pick up and drop off a lens (not the same lens, obviously), and I asked about this issue. According to him, there's nearly never a case of the electronics failing on an old camera, he says they've been pretty much sorted since the A1 came out. Virtually everything can be traced to a mechanical fault. He's got a T90 too and agrees they're practically bullet proof
Of course, this was before I took mine for a swim so we'll have to wait until the morning to see how that works out. :bonk:
excalibur2
My F4's Broken...
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***He's got a T90 too and agrees they're practically bullet proof***
Someone took a shot of me with one of those digital thingies:-
Someone took a shot of me with one of those digital thingies:-
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Bouncing this back up because I was over in Kent today meeting the very skilled Miles Whitehead to pick up and drop off a lens (not the same lens, obviously), and I asked about this issue. According to him, there's nearly never a case of the electronics failing on an old camera, he says they've been pretty much sorted since the A1 came out. Virtually everything can be traced to a mechanical fault. He's got a T90 too and agrees they're practically bullet proof
Of course, this was before I took mine for a swim so we'll have to wait until the morning to see how that works out. :bonk:
He is far more qualified to speak on this issue than I am, so I fully retract my statement
however, given the amount of T90s I hear failing, that means that mechanically they just may not be up to scratch compared to SLRs of the decade before!First of all I want to thank everyone for a most interesting discussion, and chat it has been, and I mean it much appreciated.
I have enjoyed the replies and chats and that is what a forum is about.
As I said, I have a wish to go back to a camera I started with, whilst the advice here was nice, and believe me I looked up ever camera that was spoken of on both ebay and reviews via Google there were only three that mattered.
Nikon F, Nikkormat or Praktica Super TL. in reverce orde to which I owned them.
The Prakticas are tatty that I have seen and the F is more than I can afford, but.
I was lucky to get a MINT f2 Nikon lens and Nikkormat on the weekend for £100 from two separate dealers, my son can not wait to use it.
Thanks all again, hope no one minds if I post a couple of shots later.
I have enjoyed the replies and chats and that is what a forum is about.
As I said, I have a wish to go back to a camera I started with, whilst the advice here was nice, and believe me I looked up ever camera that was spoken of on both ebay and reviews via Google there were only three that mattered.
Nikon F, Nikkormat or Praktica Super TL. in reverce orde to which I owned them.
The Prakticas are tatty that I have seen and the F is more than I can afford, but.
I was lucky to get a MINT f2 Nikon lens and Nikkormat on the weekend for £100 from two separate dealers, my son can not wait to use it.
Thanks all again, hope no one minds if I post a couple of shots later.
Of course, yes i think !, well thanks a lot, now you have me asking, the first one I had was new with my Nikkormat, the newer Nikkormat with the plastic covers to the lever wind and timer.
Both described as Immaculate and near mint
Anyone know where I can get a suitable battery and the type/name/reference please as "try ebay" without knowing what to look for is not an assistance.
Thanks
I have also gone back in time and ordered a changing bag, patterson dev tank, auto spools, force film washer and measures.
Just last years I gave my whole darkroom and dev kit to the Cat protection league, (*%%&%*&%**^*(^((, though a good cause I could happily swear now as I would rather have given the money had I known.
Thanks
I have also gone back in time and ordered a changing bag, patterson dev tank, auto spools, force film washer and measures.
Just last years I gave my whole darkroom and dev kit to the Cat protection league, (*%%&%*&%**^*(^((, though a good cause I could happily swear now as I would rather have given the money had I known.
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I use this guy http://www.paulbg.com/Nikon_F_meter_batteries.htm
I've used this adapter/battery combination in my Nikkormats for the last few years.
I can thoroughly recommend Paul to deal with, very helpful and quick delivery. And cheaper than the Wein Cell option.
CT
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I used a Nikkormat for work years ago it was there for everyone's use and took a regular hammering. The focus screen was so covered in hairs and dust you could hardly see through it but it performed flawlessly for years and never received any service that I was aware of.
You may have a problem if it was originally a mercury battery which you can no longer get. there may be a modern replacement you can use or you might need to make a slight modification which involves a diode being installed in the battery compartment.
There's some info here...
http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/004aIo
A search on Nikkormat batteries should get you all the info you need.
You may have a problem if it was originally a mercury battery which you can no longer get. there may be a modern replacement you can use or you might need to make a slight modification which involves a diode being installed in the battery compartment.
There's some info here...
http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/004aIo
A search on Nikkormat batteries should get you all the info you need.
Ordered and done thank you, will also get one of those as suggested below.
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I'm gonna weigh in with a classic Nikon. Fe, FE2, FM2 etc.
As said the F3 is noticeably larger and doesn't add a lot to the mix you're likely to miss. However, the price difference is significant.
I love my FE, easy to use manual, AP when you need it and everything is at the tip of your fingers without moving your eye from the viewfinder.
As said the F3 is noticeably larger and doesn't add a lot to the mix you're likely to miss. However, the price difference is significant.
I love my FE, easy to use manual, AP when you need it and everything is at the tip of your fingers without moving your eye from the viewfinder.
Ok Ok there is always one who has to be controvercial, actually I do agree, it is a nice camera, as I said the Nikkormat holds memories for me as my FIRST proper camera, but the FE would be a better camera for someone wanting a camera and who has no specific reason for buying a particular one.
Here is the Flash I will use on my Nikkormat, a small quiz, and I bought it new from the Euro Photo Centre, West Drayton, anyone know/guess the age ?
Question 2, What was the EPC called before it became the EPC.
Question 2, What was the EPC called before it became the EPC.
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CT
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Well I'm not seeing an auto sensor so it looks like a purely manual gun which would make it around 1970 ish?
No idea on the second question, but thryistor as a pure guess?
Its like Christmas and I feel just as I did when I bought my first Nikkormat.
It arrived toda, along with FP4, dev/fix, so on and so on.
The lens may as well have come from a 1970's shop, it is as new as can be.
It arrived toda, along with FP4, dev/fix, so on and so on.
The lens may as well have come from a 1970's shop, it is as new as can be.
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excalibur2
My F4's Broken...
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What is amazing is that the flash has a swith allowing exposure by any one of EIGHT G.N settings the Metz today doesnt have that many options or Auto, with a 6 stop range, recharge is 4.5 seconds at a GN of 40.
When the Euro Photo Centre west Drayton it was the Pictorialist Cash and Carry in a warehouse under West Drayton bridge.
Anyone in that area will know the bridge.
I believe the age is about late 70s, wish I had the instruction manual though.
I loved those days when you could roam a photographic retailer, look at the gear, talk to people like you who worked there, it is so clinical now.
Can't wait for the final delivery of my Patterson dev tank.
Here is a question I would appreciate help with.
I never used wetting agent, always a little washing up liquid, however I also never used a stop bath, as I used running water, BUT as we are now on a meter for water, when it comes to the final wash, there was advice on how many times to fill and empty the tank with fresh water rather than allow water to run, any advice please.
Thanks
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The 4000 isn't listed but you might find the 3600 or one of the others a closeish match, right click save as for a pdf
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/flashes_meters/sunpak_flash/sunpak_flash_units.htm
I think its important if you are only using water for the final wash, to really bang lots of clean stuff through the tank, I would cringe at the amount of water I use if I was on a meter, but I'm not so I don't..
You could use a wash agent like ilford wash aid, that will reduce the amount of water you need.
http://www.silverprint.co.uk/ProductByGroup.asp?PrGrp=504
TheBigYin
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I normally do the rinse method as in the ilford pdf. This is for a patterson tank with a single spiral of 120 film.
Take 600ml of the tempering water, pour into the tank. replace lid and give the tank 5 inversions and a tap on the bench. Pour water away.
Repeat, this time giving 10 inversions, with a tap on bench every 5 inversions, and pour away
Repeat, this time giving 20 inversions, with a tap on bench every 5 inversions, and pour away
repeat the 20 inversion stage until rinse water is colourless (ilford probably ok on 2x20's - last time I did some kodak it was 4-5 times before it stopped running purple!)
When final rinse water comes out colourless - add one end rinse, 600ml of tempering water with the recommended amount of photoflow - give the tank a couple of inversions and allow to "soak" for a minute or so, remove spiral from tank and film from spiral. Hang it up, and bask in the warm glow of a job completed.
Of course, I'm sure there's someone out there with a better way of working, or I've missed something, It's so long since I processed any B&W film (a good 6 months for my sins!) I've probably forgotten something!
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I didn't know the Ilford method involved a tap on the bench. I just do fill, 5 inversions, dump, fill, 10 inversions, dump, fill, 20 inversions and dump. Rinse with RinseAid/PhotoFlo type stuff in 600ml of water as final rinse, no squegee, hang to dry. Always worked here with my extra-hard water.
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the tap on the bench may just be "muscle memory" for me - I know I do it, but I can't for the life of me remember if it was what I was told by someone or if i read it - i'm just on autopilot by that stage
The tap makes sense when you are going to leave the film standing still for a period of time (thus why we do it during the developing process) but when the water is moving continuously and fast (I do the Ilford method pretty quickly now) it seems pointless to me.
Thanks.
I have always tapped the tank hard during dev,stop,fix to dislodge air bubbles, it was always advised.
I never did during wash as I used a FF washer, but it would be a good idea to dislodge air bubbles if inverting the tank, thanks again.
I have always tapped the tank hard during dev,stop,fix to dislodge air bubbles, it was always advised.
I never did during wash as I used a FF washer, but it would be a good idea to dislodge air bubbles if inverting the tank, thanks again.