Best Equipment for Portraits??

kira said:
Ok now I understand that.... so how DO you get say the eyes or face in focus if they are moving?
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That's why they pay togs the big bucks :D Just practice, nothing more to say really. I'm no expert, the number of shots I bin is scary.


kira said:
Also.... If I am taking a photo of say 3/4 people Where do I put my focus to get them all in focus?
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Increase the depth of field slightly by using a larger aperture. Choose the most appropriate point in the scene to focus on. If they are all together in a line it's easy. If two are forward, two are behind, then you can be creative. Either go for an "in the middle" focus point to get all roughly in focus, or do something more dramatic like focus on the forground or background people.

No right or wrong answer, just have fun playing.

##edit, and I crossed posts back.
 
HoppyUK said:
PS Your question about tracking a moving subject has been answered - AI Servo. On the group shot focus position, about one third into the group will optimise depth of field in front and behind the point of focus. You need to understand depth of field and how it changes (focal length, distance, f/number). Have a play with the DoF calculator here www.dofmaster.com
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I tried this and did not work at all, so I changed the shuttered speed, that only made it very bright and out of focus :| :shrug:
 
kira said:
I tried this and did not work at all, so I changed the shuttered speed, that only made it very bright and out of focus :| :shrug:
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You mentioned using AI Focus earlier, which I said was unreliable. AI Servo is better, but that too is not 100%, even with high end pro spec cameras. So you just have to check and re-check the focus. It's not an easy subject you're trying to tackle - you need both knowledge and practise.

Changing the shutter speed will not affect the focus, but the exposure - as you found. However, if you make the shutter speed longer, but compensate the exposure by using a higher f/number, that will maintain correct exposure but also give you more depth of field.
 
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kira said:
I didn't mean like the camera changed it lol

Just that in the manual it says you hold the button half way down and it locks the bit you want in focus and then you can re-position the camera and take the shot.....

But earlier on in the thread someone said it wont always stay on the focused area or like it still may focus somewhere else...... but I think maybe that was if the subject was moving??

I'm so confused with everything I've read and tried to take in today I think my head is going to explode :bonk:
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Hi Kira

The other guys have expanded on the subject of 'subjects' but please bear with me while I return to a few points which I hope will help???

1) Where I have made bold above ~ can you please confirm that you understand two key things we are (or at least I am) talking about.

a) when I talk of the central AF focusing point I am refering to only the middle one in the viewfinder AFAIK all Canon cameras have the function to select a single AF point (in this case the central). Have you so selected that point?

b) when you are selecting the (in this case) subjects eyes you hold that central point over the eyes and half press the shutter to get that in focus (focus lock) and then fully press the shutter to take the picture. For the record ~ do not not befoe the full press move either yourself or the camera to recompose, whatever 'the manual says' such a method as stated by myself & others will lead to out of focus eyes (now let me say that method can be used but you have to understand the impact it can have and thus use it sparingly and to advantage and frankly as novice stick with the basics :clap: )

2) re AI servo ~ this function of the camera needs to be understood to get the best out of it! Unlike "one shot" it will let fire the shutter even if the subject is out of focus.....now the key point, it is designed to be used with moving subject (as mentioned by me above) and works best where you have high shutter speed & used in combination with rapid frame rate setting (in film days this would have been called motorwind) in use you have to maintain that chosen (central AF point) on the subject because if you slip off it, so to speak the camera will focus on the background or anything else that the AF point is on at that time. There variations of technique using AI Servo that reduce that happening but that is for a much later tutorial ;)

A last thought ~ here at TP nad over at PoTN forum local'ish meets happen where you could actually be talking to other photographers and get some direct feedback...........they are IMO always a friendly bunch willing to help a novice get to grips with their technique.

Keep at it and you get there :)
 
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I think the sugestion above to join a local camera club is a good one. There are several near you and you'll be made very welcome, especially with your enthusiasm.

Have a look here http://www.pagb-photography-uk.co.uk/links.htm The Southern Photographic Federation is your area. Meetings start in September :)

Meanwhile, there are some good beginners' tutorials on this site.
 
Me again.....

I've looked back over the 2 Threads I posted and have even printed them out for further reference (I'm making a folder of everything I learn)

I still don't understand a lot of it to be honest, I don't know why! It's just so complicated to me :shrug:

I would just like to ask a bit more advice, I've looked back and only really had 1 or 2 tips on the subject.

Tomorrow I have to go to a friend and take some photos of her, her partner and their 2 year old daughter (the same one I look after who does not stop moving!) We are hopefully going to be outside on the field so the lighting will be better for me to work with.......... can anyone give me and advice on settings and focus points?

I'm worried about not getting them all in focus. I'm guessing an F number of like F8 - F11? Maybe an ISO of 100/200? Any ideas what the shutter speed should be at?

And where should I put my focus? I will be using the Centre Focus point, but I'm worried about what I should be focusing on as there is 3 of them
 
Box Brownie said:
A few links with tutorials which I hope you will find easy to digest

Understanding Exposure
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understandexposure.shtml

Focal length comparison
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/focal_lengths.shtml

Focusing part1
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/Digital Focusing.shtml

Focusing part2
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital focusing 2.shtml

I hope these help to debunk and reduce your worries
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I don't understand half of all that :crying: I'm either really thick and it just wont go in and I cannot understand anything or..... it's just too complicated for my small brain!
 
Concentrate on three things. ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Learn how they relate to each other. Everything else is easy (ish)
 
kira said:
Me again.....

I've looked back over the 2 Threads I posted and have even printed them out for further reference (I'm making a folder of everything I learn)

I still don't understand a lot of it to be honest, I don't know why! It's just so complicated to me :shrug:

I would just like to ask a bit more advice, I've looked back and only really had 1 or 2 tips on the subject.

Tomorrow I have to go to a friend and take some photos of her, her partner and their 2 year old daughter (the same one I look after who does not stop moving!) We are hopefully going to be outside on the field so the lighting will be better for me to work with.......... can anyone give me and advice on settings and focus points?

I'm worried about not getting them all in focus. I'm guessing an F number of like F8 - F11? Maybe an ISO of 100/200? Any ideas what the shutter speed should be at?

And where should I put my focus? I will be using the Centre Focus point, but I'm worried about what I should be focusing on as there is 3 of them
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You've actually had quite a lot of good advice, but haven't really given yourself enough time to digest it all. And no chance yet to get some practise in, which is probably the best advice of all. Read, learn, shoot, ask questions, learn some more and shoot a lot more.

There's nobody that knows how to use a camera who was brilliant from day one. Technology can only do so much; it will usually get you passable images, but if you want creative control and guaranteed results, then you need to know how things work. It's not difficult, but there is quite a lot to learn - one step at a time.

For your shoot tomorrow, f/11 will pretty much guarantee everything will be sharp, with a bit of leeway. Try to focus one-third in to the group to optimise the DoF front to back, but remember to keep your shutter speed up - push the ISO if you have to. I would start at ISO400, but so much depends on the light. Forecast for tomorrow is okay I think. (Edit: Oops - rain after lunchtime!)

Use Av (not scene modes) and evaluative metering. You could also try a dash of fill-in flash as mentioned earlier, but get a bit of practise in first and only if that goes well and you're confident. When you get that right, it looks great :)

kira said:
I don't understand half of all that :crying: I'm either really thick and it just wont go in and I cannot understand anything or..... it's just too complicated for my small brain!
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Have you checked out the tutorials section here?

There is a magazine aimed exactly at folks like you - Digital SLR http://www.dslruser.co.uk/ I should declare my hand and say that I write some articles for it, but it aims to cover the basics in a jargon-free style and recent issues have covered a lot of stuff relevant to what you're trying to learn. You'll find it in Smiths, Tesco etc :)
 
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Thank you all for your help! I'm jotting notes down and will take them with me tomorrow..... will just have to take lots and hope I get at least a few good ones for them

I just hope the little one doesn't wriggle about to much or I may not be able to get her focused properly......
 
Good morning Kira

As Hoppy says none of us 'came out the egg' with a camera in our hands taking 100% great images and IMO anyone even a pro who claims to get 100% keepers is lying!

FWIW the modern dSLR (or compact P&S for that matter) takes a heck of lot of the hard work out of photography these days. Can I just give you an insight that may temper the way you should think about photography ~ when I had my first film SLR it was totally manual, I could only afford one lens (a 50mm) and had a separate lightmeter to take alight reading the settings of which (shutter speed & aperture) were transposed to the camera which had a roll of film of particluar ISO in it such as 100. This has taken as long to type as it took to use the camera and take the picture. As you may appeciate the film then had to be developed & printed (I did have with my brother a B&W process darkroom we had set up :D ) it took relative ages to see the results and learn how well I did and in what ways I could improve!

Now with modern electronics the job is waaaaayyyy easier ~ think of the camera as computer with a lens on the front, how long did it take you learn 'Word' or 'Excel' or any program for that matter............hang on a mo how long did it take to you to learn to drive ~ get the idea ;)

The camera is a tool it will take a while to understand how to get the best you can out of it, all the tutorials in the world cannot replace actually using it >>>> changing a setting and seeing the result >>>>>> seeing what effect that had to then change it/another again and see what that does - remember what I said abou film days? You have the great advantage of being able to see on the back of the camera and in the computer screen so very quickly comapred to then.

Do not beat yourself up all the time now ~ read up, take pictures, learn from those pictures what worked & what did not so that the next one you take will be that bit better. All us folk can do is write things & point you to other things to read but only you can look through the viewfinder take the picture and "see" just hwo well it worked for you.

Best of luck, relax give yourself time and as the family you mention are friends they will be great subjects to learn as you 'work' the session (y)

PS Do not forget what I and someone else said about using a longer lens than the 50mm to get back for a differnent perspective that might also reduce the 2 year old playing up in front of the camera? As remember what we said, using the 50mm and hoping to get frame filling face images with a wriggly 2year old is IMO like trying to pick up jelly because you are just too darned close ~ i.e. nigh on impossible. The fact that you babysit her likely means she looks on you as a playmate not a stranger that she has to be on best behaviour with or for???
 
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Your problem with the first two images is camera movement and too slow a shutter speed. You can tell this because the third image (done with flash) is pretty sharp.

Compounding your problem is the need to sharpen your images in post processing. All DSLR images need sharpening...

Here are a couple of quite sharp portraits which benefitted from sharpening...












These were lit with a single flash on a Stroboframe camera-flip bracket, bounced off the ceiling with the light modified with a Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro ( www.dembflashproducts.com ).

They were two phase sharpened in Photoshop CS5...
 
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Focus and recompose works in One Shot if neither the camera, nor the subject move closer or further away from you

It will NOT work in AI Servo because as you move the camera to recompose, the focus point withh move also and it will interpret this as the subject moving and refocus on the new target.
 
Greywolf said:
Focus and recompose works in One Shot if neither the camera, nor the subject move closer or further away from you

It will NOT work in AI Servo because as you move the camera to recompose, the focus point withh move also and it will interpret this as the subject moving and refocus on the new target.
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I have previously said that Focus & Recompose is not a good technique for the novice because you have to understand why it can fail to work and this website makes the point about about the way the distance does change even when you think the distance between you and the subject has not changed and hence your advice is frankly flawed http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm because as shown if you focus on the eyes using the central AF point and then recompose to get a more pleasing composition to include the whole person or say 3/4 height the eyes will no longer be at the same distance to the cameras plane of focus!

With modern dSLR and portraiture there should be no need to even consider the method because we have have multiple AF points to choose from i.e. choose the specific single AF point for where the eyes are in the compositional frame (so to speak) whether you are holding the camera in 'portrait' of 'landscape' orientation.

As for AI servo ~ that is a very sensitive function and the slightest movement of you the tog or the subject will cause the camera to refocus and the point at which you take the picture is as likely to be when it is hunting or in focus, so IMO a recipe for more frustration :(
 
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rpcrowe said:
Your problem with the first two images is camera movement and too slow a shutter speed. You can tell this because the third image (done with flash) is pretty sharp.

These were lit with a single flash on a Stroboframe camera-flip bracket, bounced off the ceiling with the light modified with a Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro ( www.dembflashproducts.com ).
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1) I didn't use a flash on any of my photos?

2) I have no idea what all the bounced off a ceiling or flip bracket or Flash diffuser or any of that ment! I literally am only getting to grips with ISO, F numbers and Shuttered speed...... and even that I am still confused with :|
 
kira said:
So what type of set up/settings are you supposed to use for movement?
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OK, can clarify by saying the following:-
1) The received wisdom is that AI Servo works well to moving subjects that are coming towards/going away from you on a (reasonably) predictable path ~ think racing cars on a track, a footballer running towards the goal a gaol kick attempt, aircraft coming in to land, birds in flight. Even these subjects can be difficult to capture exactly in focus frame to frame 100% of the time because as stated before AI Servo will allow the shutter to fire whether subject is still in focus or not!!!

2) A 2 year old running around especially in close proximity to you the photographer will not be so predictable ~ I did suggest trying a longer lens than 50mm & being further back form the subject and getting her to play with her mum i.e. try to get some predictablity in the direction she will run?

3) Portraiture is not about movement unless it is intended for artistic effect ~ where you (typically) require absolute sharpness of the facial features e.g. the eyes then you need stabilty and the subject to pose. And one shot focusing rules

4) Using a flash will allow you to freeze the moment/movement in time ~ think of the Paparazzi with their flashies blitzing away when their "prey" is rushing by them at a rate of knots :LOL:

5) Carefull choice of aperture to increase the DoF can help but is not a guarantee of ensuring the eyes are still in critical focus

6) Having said all the above technology can help in that the higher grade & spec cameras have improved control of the AF system. By that I mean my old 350D had very poor AI Servo but my 40D is way improved! Looking say the 7D it has what I undestand are called hidden focus expansion points that surround the central AF point this aids keeping the subject in focus between shots when using high frame rates shooting and AI Servo.......the 1D MkIV being the top end Pro body takes that to a level my wallet can dream about!

I do hope that helps you understand that limitations of the camera, the user, the lens choice will impact on how well your expectations of the final image meet the actual final image.

The fact that you are struggling to get what you perceive as "good" images does not mean you are a poor photographer......you are learning and will continue to learn until the day you decide to give up.

Keeping taking pictures, learn the capabilities of of the kit you have now and its limitations and when you can clearly undestand and are sure that it is indeed the kit holding you back then is time to say "what do I need to take it to the next level & can I afford it...." :LOL:
 
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I didn't get to do the family shoot as the weather was rubbish!!

I have installed the DPP software I got with my camera and I'm trying out shots in RAW which I never did before. I still do not think the sharpening tool is good though, it looks awful to me.

I've been in the garden practising with a flower, just is not as crisp or sharp like I want it still.

Then I was indoors, taking a shot of my cat, near a window so I had light, yet was still coming out dark.... the only way to brighten it was to either drop my shutter speed which I was told NOT to go lower than say 1/80 and 1/60 by someone else.... so Instead I up'd the ISO to 800, was still a rubbish shot so I gave up.

The Flash seems unrealistic if that makes sense? It's very bright.... Although I have recently discovered that I can actually change the brightness of that so I may have to fiddle around with that.

I really am trying the advice and tips people have give but I just don't think anything is coming out right, which leads me to think i'm either just so bad at this.... or I need a better camera??
 
Have any camera and those ISO, Shutter and Aperture words will still exist.

Kira the advice here is good - I think you just need to take it all in and practise, practise, practise.

And then practise some more.

Perhaps, you have seen crisp, sharp shots from people you perceive to be "Pro's" and expect that immediately you can do the same? Once you've learnt the basics you'll be on your way - but you gotta learn 'em first!! :) Keep trying, you'll get there.
 
kira said:
I didn't get to do the family shoot as the weather was rubbish!!

I have installed the DPP software I got with my camera and I'm trying out shots in RAW which I never did before. I still do not think the sharpening tool is good though, it looks awful to me.

I've been in the garden practising with a flower, just is not as crisp or sharp like I want it still.

Then I was indoors, taking a shot of my cat, near a window so I had light, yet was still coming out dark.... the only way to brighten it was to either drop my shutter speed which I was told NOT to go lower than say 1/80 and 1/60 by someone else.... so Instead I up'd the ISO to 800, was still a rubbish shot so I gave up.

The Flash seems unrealistic if that makes sense? It's very bright.... Although I have recently discovered that I can actually change the brightness of that so I may have to fiddle around with that.

I really am trying the advice and tips people have give but I just don't think anything is coming out right, which leads me to think i'm either just so bad at this.... or I need a better camera??
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Hi Kira

In haste as must dash :(

When I an others have said about practice it also means trying & learning from making changes like the Flash compensation you have just discovered (y) With you cat in window light..........go and read up and try the different metering settings & about expoure compensation these are your friends in difficult lighting situation to ensure the main subject is properly exposed..............all comes back to what has been said by all 'out of the box' is dumb computer with a lens ~ it is you taking control that will lead to the pictures pleasing you!

Using DPP or any other sofware is another learning curve and sharpening is one very big subject...........Google it and do not be frightened by how complex it can be??? FWIW all my post processing is done on the KISS principle ~ Keep It Simple Stupid :bang::clap:

off now :wave:

PS Oh whatever you do, do not rush and but a "better" camera ~ see my comments and everyone esles in that regard. There was a story some time back of a user of P&S camera who saw all the pro's using Nikon (sorry cannot recall now which model) but he went and splaashed £1000's and reported back that the pictures were rubbish and worse than his P&S..................was it the camera at fault??? He was unwilling to learn and assumed the camera "took the picture....."
 
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Deleted as managed to duplidate a prior post:bang:
 
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Just some comments on previous posts.

The problems of focus-recompose technique should not be exaggerated. I use it almost all the time. It is only an issue if you are shooting both very close and with a very low f/number, like f/1.8. Example: a tight head shot, just chin to forehead in the frame, shot from under two feet - even then the shift in the focus plane is likely to be only about 1cm.

That is enough to make a big difference in that situation, often compounded by movement by the subject and/or the photographer. But a more normal portrait, say head and shoulders from about four feet (crop format DSLR like the OP's 400D, 50mm lens at f/5.6) the depth of field is around 5in and any focus-recompose errors will be invisible.

On the servo AF tracking, that is difficult. Some cameras are certainly better at it than others but even the best are not 100% reliable and it's also extremely hard to nail that AF point precisely with a subject that's moving around unpredictably. AI Servo is the best bet (not AI Focus) but the safest option is to cover potential errors by using a higher f/number for greater depth of field, or time your shot when the subject is still. For moving kids, I use both AI Servo, and a higher f/number, and shoot loads - even then there are lots of misses.

Sometimes it's not possible to have everything just as you want it, usually because of the light - very often actually, which is why flash is so useful. The ability to choose the best compromise solutions and working around difficulties, only comes when you know what the options are and have the experience to implement them.
 
kira said:
My shot....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kira_farrow/5960401391/in/photostream

One I found....

http://www.english-country-garden.com/a/i/flowers/hypericum-3.jpg

Mine is still not crisp or good enough to me, also if I needed to print these photos out say A4 size, they would also look rubbish

My friend wants her family ones done in this size but I don't think they'll be good quality
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Your flower shot isn't bad. It looks like that because that's what it looks like! Your picture is taken in dull, flat light (mentioned previously) compared to the more directional light of the comparison pic, creating shadows and shape and contrast. It's also much closer, cutting out the background. It could be improved further by shooting at a lower f/number, reducing depth of field to make the subject stand out more.

I think you will find a flash gun will add a lot to the kind of work you want to do, and the type of bright, poppy, results you're looking to achieve. A decent gun is a vital addition to anyone's kit, but brings with it a whole new can of worms, and quite a large can at that. It's something for the future though ;)
 
I think you are being too critical, I think your shot is crisp.

That flower isn't in the best condition compared to the comparison, and its too cluttered with dead foliage around it. The colours look bit off if you compare the leaves hue so your white balance could do with a little adjustment. It is also possible it was lit with a remote/off camera flash from above - trying to interpret the shadows but can't be sure.

You gotta keep trying!!! Its not all about sharpness if the subject, framing, lighting, white balance or exposure is off. Generally all these things come together to make a good pic. (y)

Also think about the shots you are using for comparisons... These photographers started off with basic kit and would have upgraded in due course. They would have gained experience with every shot and you won't ever get to view all their trashed images either ;)
 
Hi Kira

Just by way of 'next steps' i.e. Post Processing. I have had a quick look at the flower picture and if you allow me I will post what I have down by way of a 'quick' run at it for your perusal.

Let me know and I will link to it as appropriate???

PS I also had a look at a couple of the others on your Flickr that looked like bit of PP'ing would help these were Izzy sleeping and My Favourite Twins ~ so like the flower image please say if you are happy for me to host & post them. Rest assured I will remove them when you say.

PPS Suffice to say I think you will be interested to see just good they were to start with as they have come up AOK bearing in mind I was working on image files already shrunk for the web :) Oh, as already stated by other posters, you do have issues with the other images of different types as stated.
 
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kira said:
Yes that's absolutely fine.... I would be happy to see what you have done :)
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OK leave it with me and I will post either later or tomorrow, more chores to do :help: :bonk:

What I have doen is kept the file sizes as large as you have done so will have to upload to my host site and embed link them here as "before & after" so you can see them in direct comparison. I will also try to recall what steps I did which by the way for the record were all done in Photoshop CS5 but AFIK all the tools I used are Photoshop Elements 9, I think?. So if you find such PP and tools worth going for please do check the spec of PSE9 or I hope someone with that version can confirm.

Will try to get them sorted before shuteye time???
 
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Box Brownie said:
OK leave it with me and I will post either later or tomorrow, more chores to do :help: :bonk:

What I have doen is kept the file sizes as large as you have done so will have to upload to my host site and embed link them here as "before & after" so you can see them in direct comparison. I will also try to recall what steps I did which by the way for the record were all done in Photoshop CS5 but AFIK all the tools I used are Photoshop Elements 9, I think?. So if you find such PP and tools worth going for please do check the spec of PSE9 or I hope someone with that version can confirm.

Will try to get them sorted before shuteye time???
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Thats fine, thanks a lot :)
 
Right before I forget too much? In each case I have posted your original followed my rough & ready PP'ing. Working with images already web prepped is the case of "I would not have started from here....." and what I have done is no more than 2 mins per image if that.

But I hope in part what I have shown puts your mind at ease that PP'ing is a necessary step in creating final image files for printing or indeed shwoing for the web.....as mentioned this also has learning curve!

Edited this bit (was too tired last night to get wordy :D ) Most importantly do they look more like what you are comparing them to by other photographers examples? All that I have done is show that they are (like all dSLR images need) able to be sharpened but as noted in "Izzy sleeping" the point of critical focus does not include her eye though IMO the image is nicely seen and I would think her mum would like that one? In the case of the "My Favourite Twins" the taller one at the back though a little more crisp is still a tad soft on the facial features compared to the shorter one 'at the front' so in these two instances for whatever reason (aperture choice & AF point used/what you actually focused on or Focus & Recompose used???) the DoF is too shallow to have ensured that everything you wanted in the frame was spot on focus and hence sharpenable?

Do not forget to click the bar above any images to view them 'full size'!
#1 The flower image ~ as noted by the others guys the contrast is quite flat on this and without some good light at an angle you are not going to get much out of this but I did this:-

Used the Highlight/Shadow tool to reduce the shadow but leave the highlights untouched, then used Unsharp Mask (sharpening) with Local Contrast Enhancement settings of 10/20/0 lastly SmartSharpening of 40/0.9
Original
5960401391_649e2eac26_b.jpg

Full size edited
5960401391_649e2eac26_bEDIT.jpg

Crop of the edited one
5960401391_649e2eac26_bEDIT_CROPPED.jpg


Next post for the rest of them.
 
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#2 Smiley Girl ~ this one I think I just the USM LCE and SmartSharpening. The critical focus appears to be on her nost and mouth not the eyes? But it still sharpens up quite well.
Original
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Edit
5949560887_3aa51b0745_bEDIT.jpg


#3 Izzy Sleeping ~ this one needed the least attention - adjusted the Levels very slightly and SmartSharpened. The critical focus is her eyborw and fringe hair.
Original
5949563927_deae0f968a_b.jpg

Edit
5949563927_deae0f968a_bEDIT.jpg


#4 My Favourite Twins ~ USM LCE and Smart Sharpening only?
Original
5950106022_b761130300_b.jpg

Edit
5950106022_b761130300_bEDIT.jpg
 
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Just gonna throw this one in the mix...

Not every photo has to be pin sharp to "sell"....

It's about the moment of capture and if the image is slightly soft then so be it, as long as the image works being soft it's fine.

Creative editing and the right picture can still sell and win awards even if the image is slightly off.

A few of my clients (parents) love some if the shots I've said no to,... Just because I thought it was too soft or too OOF for sale.

Practice makes better, perfection on every shot when photographing kids is nigh on impossible. Especially when they are running round like the clappers!! Lol
 
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John Doran said:
Just gonna throw this one in the mix...

Not every photo has to be pin sharp to "sell"....

It's about the moment of capture and if the image is slightly soft then so be it, as long as the image works being soft it's fine.

Creative editing and the right picture can still sell and win awards even if the image is slightly off.

A few of my clients (parents) love some if the shots I've said no to,... Just because I thought it was too soft or too OOF for sale.

Practice makes better, perfection on every shot when photographing kids is nigh on impossible. Especially when they are running round like the clappers!! Lol
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:LOL: broadly speaking John I coud not agree more ~ we as photographers are highly critical of our own efforts whether pro or amateur but the "typicial" buying mum may not care two hoots if there is something a tad soft as long you have captured a magic moment but note I say may not care :thinking:

Having said that IMO as evidenced by my quick PP'ing of a few of her images Kira has produced some nice viably sharp images and yes she needs to perfect the methods/techniques to improve the keeper rate and her confidence as a photographer but then haven't we all over the years ;)
 
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John Doran said:
Just gonna throw this one in the mix...

Not every photo has to be pin sharp to "sell"....

It's about the moment of capture and if the image is slightly soft then so be it, as long as the image works being soft it's fine.

Creative editing and the right picture can still sell and win awards even if the image is slightly off.

A few of my clients (parents) love some if the shots I've said no to,... Just because I thought it was too soft or too OOF for sale.

Practice makes better, perfection on every shot when photographing kids is nigh on impossible. Especially when they are running round like the clappers!! Lol
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I have 4 photo's..... all out of photo's that my friend actually loves lol
I am really not happy with then but she loves them

Thanks for the post though, made me smile :)
 
Box Brownie said:
:LOL: broadly speaking John I coud not agree more ~ we as photographers are highly critical of our own efforts whether pro or amateur but the "typicial" buying mum may not care two hoots if there is something a tad soft as long you have captured a magic moment but note I say may not care :thinking:

Having said that IMO as evidenced by my quick PP'ing of a few of her images Kira has produced some nice viably sharp images and yes she needs to perfect the methods/techniques to improve the keeper rate and her confidence as a photographer but then haven't we all over the years ;)
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I have the little one tomorrow so I am going to practice with the Tamron 70-300 lens I have..... only problem with that is I always seem to be OOF with the zoom and as I will be taking pictures of a moving child I don't know if my little tripod will be very 'mobile' enough to follow her around

Have you seen the caterpillar ones?
 
Nahh not gonna happen!

Just went in the garden with my 70-300 lens, and used the tripod and even the self timer..... not one shot in focus, in fact that were out right awful.

what am I doing wrong I actually can't understand!
 
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