Best settings for shooting surfer's
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- Chris
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7.62mm from around 100 yards 
I'd suggest a fast shutter speed (and a tripod) as I'm guessing you'll be shooting fairly long, and wobbly hand holding could be detrimental, but of course using a tripod to get a shot of something that's moving rather quickly is tricky, and will be even more noticeable if you're cropping to make up for a lack of reach.
I'd suggest a fast shutter speed (and a tripod) as I'm guessing you'll be shooting fairly long, and wobbly hand holding could be detrimental, but of course using a tripod to get a shot of something that's moving rather quickly is tricky, and will be even more noticeable if you're cropping to make up for a lack of reach.
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Agree with the above, a fast shutter and a tripod 
For the best pics get out early in the morning if there is surf and again at sunset.
I doubt the waves will be double head height, which means they wont be moving that fast, and depending on you gear try to keep speeds at or above 1/400 on multi shoot.
I have used spot metering on a few but some times find that if I meter the wetsuit which is black, everything else gets a little over exposed.
so I'd suggest take a couple of shots that you think look good and then use them settings in manual. and set to spot for the focusing.
keep an eye on the clouds and shadows created by them so that you can compensate for the changing conditions.
I only have a 18-200mm lens and get some ok shots of the kite and windsurfers. tried the tripod last time but my shutter speeds were plenty high enough to have not bothered. means you can move around a lot quicker.
ISO 400 if cloudy, 200 if bright
here is a link to some stuff shot with that lens at around 5pm.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3down/sets/72157621870507410/
Edd
I doubt the waves will be double head height, which means they wont be moving that fast, and depending on you gear try to keep speeds at or above 1/400 on multi shoot.
I have used spot metering on a few but some times find that if I meter the wetsuit which is black, everything else gets a little over exposed.
so I'd suggest take a couple of shots that you think look good and then use them settings in manual. and set to spot for the focusing.
keep an eye on the clouds and shadows created by them so that you can compensate for the changing conditions.
I only have a 18-200mm lens and get some ok shots of the kite and windsurfers. tried the tripod last time but my shutter speeds were plenty high enough to have not bothered. means you can move around a lot quicker.
ISO 400 if cloudy, 200 if bright
here is a link to some stuff shot with that lens at around 5pm.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3down/sets/72157621870507410/
Edd
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- David
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get high and get close - cliffs or other things that are out into the sea rock, last time I went out I went to the seaward edge of the sea pool with the tide half in I could shoot front and side shots, then as the tide moved I went half way up the cliff (the where I was standing got underwater)
you'll want something long, 200 is too short on crop really, 300 just does
keep shutters as high as possible to freeze water drops (that can look awesome), try manual, screw around with the shutter maybe try something slow (almost 0 keeper rate but its fun)
go to the pub with the surfers after
you'll want something long, 200 is too short on crop really, 300 just does
keep shutters as high as possible to freeze water drops (that can look awesome), try manual, screw around with the shutter maybe try something slow (almost 0 keeper rate but its fun)
go to the pub with the surfers after
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As david said, 300mm at mimimum, and be prepared to get your feet wet. I was there a few weeks ago and there was some competition on, generally the people had 400+mm lenses on tripods, standing about knee high in the sea so 200-300mm, even if cropped, from dry land is probably not going to be good enough.
