Bird show advice please

joeteds

joeteds

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Name
Joe
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Hey all
As Ive mentioned im off to the hawk conservancy tomorrow and was wondering what settings you would recomend as I dont want to mess anything up and want to get it right first tme.
So.... what settings would you recomend at the flying shows ? (when theres alot of movement and the birds are flying all over the place moving quickly and fast photography is needed)
And also when Im just walking around the place and the birds are in their pens and still ?
Whenever i use Aperture or shutter priority Im always thinking ' could i be getting better pics in manual mode' or should I have more faith in the cameras modes ?
Im using a Nikon D90 by the way
 
Just a quicky, did you notice on their website they also do photo days where there is a maximum of 10 peope in the place, each photographer is taken around the site and allowed in the pens of the less nervous birds so you don't have the caging in shot, £130 for a full day including food 10am to 5:30pm.
 
Shutter priority around 250 sec depends on the lens really
Don't go to manual for the flights as you will not keep up with the changing light as they fly.

Try to get the sun behind you, or if that not poss get as high as you can if the sky is overcast.
if blue sky it's not as bad.
In sports ,wildlife or any moving subject manual is really IMHO a bit of a no no :nono:, but I'm sure I will get a argument :lol:

Most togs will use aperture priority or shutter priority with moving subjects

And don't forget to keep chimping (checking you're shots on the screen)
 
For in flight you probably want 1/800, if your camera has it also set the aperture to give you some latitude rather than wide open, and use Auto ISO so the exposure adjusts. Failing that Tv with a highish ISO or take an average meter reading and go manual. AutoFocus on Servo.
 
towershot said:
Shutter priority around 250 sec depends on the lens really
Don't go to manual for the flights as you will not keep up with the changing light as they fly.

Try to get the sun behind you, or if that not poss get as high as you can if the sky is overcast.
if blue sky it's not as bad.
In sports ,wildlife or any moving subject manual is really IMHO a bit of a no no :nono:, but I'm sure I will get a argument :lol:

Most togs will use aperture priority or shutter priority with moving subjects

And don't forget to keep chimping (checking you're shots on the screen)
Click to expand...

Cheers Rick, quality info
I'll stick the shutter release on continuous also for the flying displays.
What exposure metering would you do ? I have 3d colour matrix, centre weighted and spot and Ive read the manual but cant decide.
 
You lucky b****r, no rain and blue skies, ok white'ish skies but that will burn off!

New camera and great weather to go and play. Hoppe you get some cracking shots will look forward to seeing the outcome :)

Unfortunately for me will be dark before I get out of the office!
 
TheNissanMan said:
You lucky b****r, no rain and blue skies, ok white'ish skies but that will burn off!

New camera and great weather to go and play. Hoppe you get some cracking shots will look forward to seeing the outcome :)

Unfortunately for me will be dark before I get out of the office!
Click to expand...

Lol i know mate , guarentee it pours down the second i get out the car. I'll post results later
 
joeteds said:
Cheers Rick, quality info
I'll stick the shutter release on continuous also for the flying displays.
What exposure metering would you do ? I have 3d colour matrix, centre weighted and spot and Ive read the manual but cant decide.
Click to expand...

I would use 3D colour matrix but try them all to see what suits,the colour matrix should be best.
 
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