bracketing auto or manual

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reedwarbler

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Name
garry
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which is the best way to bracket auto or manual,shooting raw,for a high contrast scene ie a sunset sunrise,the reason i ask is that,if i bracket in auto, 3 shots at -2 0 +2,and then i find that the shadows are clipping and the highlights are blown,is this ok? are they recoverable,or should i shoot in manual and check the histogram to expose for the shadows and highlights,to make sure that they are not clipping or blown,so they could be blended,hope this makes sense lol.
 
I thought the idea of bracketing was to take at least 3 photos - one image where the sky is properly exposed, one in the "middle", and one where the shadows are exposed, and then combine them together afterwards? If the scene has a high dynamic range, then you're bound to some clipping in the over and under exposed shots.
 
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The idea of bracketing is using the meter to give you what it thinks is the right exposure and taking a photograph each side of the reading to arrive at the shot that looks right. Or at least it used to be...
 
There's bracketing because you're not sure what the correct exposure is, ie shoot above and below and use the best one.

And there's bracketing for HDR, which might include many more exposures above and below, which are all merged in post processing to capture the full extended dynamic range.

Either way you're going to get clipping/blowing. You just don't use those frames, or those tones from those frames.
 
thanks for the replys, so it would not matter whether i auto bracket or manual?
 
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String said:
Welcome mate. Don't know your camera, but on mine I can select the gap between exposure on bracketing and I leave it set at 1/3 of a stop, but can adjust it between 1/3 and 1 stop.

Yours probably has a similar facility?
Click to expand...

Same here - i can adjust the stops, so i'm using auto with different settings, mor econvenient and quicker.
 
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