Calling all Sports togs, D3/D3S settings

Rovers_Andy

Rovers_Andy

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Andy
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I've had my head in the manual this afternoon but would appreciate any feedback from other noinkers who have more experience with the D3/D3S setup for sports/Action shots. Particularly the custom functions.

Is the 3D tracking any good? would you bother with ADL? how much difference do the picture styles make.

For the moment im going for Dynamic 51 point AF, Single point, Continous shooting. Will be experimenting with it tomorrow but would value peoples feedback.

Cheers

Andy
 
The D300 AF system is about the same, so will comment on my experiences.

3D tracking for me doesn't work (motorsport and aviation), so would not bother, someone else may say differently though. I think it depends what sport you're shooting and how quickly people/objects move. I usually use single point and tend to use the middle 3 columns of AF points as they're all cross type, and of course continuous AF (AF-C). I tried with dynamic point (51, 21 and 9) but reckon single point is best if you can keep the point over the subject, means less of the camera processing power is used in deciding which AF point to use? I can't honestly say I noticed much difference between single and dynamic, obviously if I wasn't very good at keeping the AF point on the subject it would help, but I usually can, so stick to single point.

I have ADL and all the ISO noise reduction options turned off as it reduces the amount of shots you can fire off in a burst and if you shoot RAW this can be sorted in PP anyway.

I tend to use 6 fps, and not 8 fps as I reckon the camera doesn't have enough time or the processing power to acquire focus when you're reeling off 8 fps, again someone may say differently.

HTH.

Cheers,
 
I use 51pt 3D tracking almost exclusively - for everything including sports and it works very well for me. I also have ADL OFF and no in camera NR either.
 
Oh and a few things I have set in the menus, I think the menu options are similar on the D3?

a1 AF-C priority selection - release + focus

a4 Focus tracking with lock-on - OFF (always been debate about this, but it concerns how long the camera waits when re focusing if the subject is blocked by something, so unless there are things often blocking your subject, its best to leave it off! ;))
 
Jim B said:
The D300 AF system is about the same, so will comment on my experiences.

3D tracking for me doesn't work (motorsport and aviation), so would not bother...
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I believe the D3 has more processing power than the D300, I've read 3D tracking is much-improved (I agree it's pants on the D300).
 
3D improved with the latest firmware update on the D3 - get it if you don't have it already!
 
Jim B said:
Oh and a few things I have set in the menus, I think the menu options are similar on the D3?

a1 AF-C priority selection - release + focus

a4 Focus tracking with lock-on - OFF (always been debate about this, but it concerns how long the camera waits when re focusing if the subject is blocked by something, so unless there are things often blocking your subject, its best to leave it off! ;))
Click to expand...

surely you would want a1 to be set to focus only? :thinking: to prevent you firing a burst where you loose the focus. a4 im going to try on "normal" if its like the setting on the MKIII i didnt really notice much difference with it.

reading back through the manual it looks like 21 point will be better than 51 too
 
Rovers_Andy said:
surely you would want a1 to be set to focus only? :thinking: to prevent you firing a burst where you loose the focus. a4 im going to try on "normal" if its like the setting on the MKIII i didnt really notice much difference with it.

reading back through the manual it looks like 21 point will be better than 51 too
Click to expand...
if you want it to jam because you have not hit focus lock LOL, the advice above (release + focus) is good and allows the camera to recompose focus. 21 point is slightly faster to acquire but I tend to switch between 51-21 depending on what I am photographing.

A4 set to off

I too think 3d tracking is tosh, but only for my type of photography especially when the target is free of of any obstruction ie flying behind a tree.
 
gpa said:
if you want it to jam because you have not hit focus lock LOL, the advice above (release + focus) is good and allows the camera to recompose focus. 21 point is slightly faster to acquire but I tend to switch between 51-21 depending on what I am photographing.

A4 set to off

I too think 3d tracking is tosh, but only for my type of photography especially when the target is free of of any obstruction ie flying behind a tree.
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Ahhhhhhhhh ok :bonk: i see that does sound good to me :D
 
Jim B said:
The D300 AF system is about the same, so will comment on my experiences.
Click to expand...

Indeed.

For me: 9 focus assist points*, priority focus+release, AF tracking OFF**.

Turning off active D lighting will help your burst capacity, assuming you need a longer burst. Personally, I like ActiveD and leave it on.

Drive speed I have set to continuous low, more breathing space between frames to allow refocus. No point in 15 OOF shots, I'd sooner take 8 better ones - not that firing great big ripping bursts is my style!

I've also got the focus grid turned on and AF point illumination too.

**AF tracking is something that takes a little understanding, it can help but is situation specific. One thing I turn it to "normal" or "long" for is champagne spraying shots or rear MX shots. Remember as much as it hangs onto things when stuff passes in front, a delay is also imposed in other radical movements. I've extensively tested it and the manual is correct - turn it off for fast moving stuff. Football, you might find the suggestion from the manual is correct - can't remember what value it suggests but it does talk about football.

*9 is faster than 21, which is faster than 51. 21 might be ok for slow moving footballers :D 3D tracking is super sucky. If you plan to use it, make sure you read the manual. Bear in mind it requires a half press of the shutter release to pick a colour to track, then it will follow the subject. Now, in my mind, I'd take the advice from manual about similar coloured things that might appear in the frame - you know, the other ten guys wearing the same clothes... Try it out - if you have AF point illumination turned on, you can watch it bounce round the screen like a demented version of the classic arcade game "Pong". Why trust a brainless formula to get your chosen subject under a focus point - do that yourself is my advice!
 
Try it out - if you have AF point illumination turned on, you can watch it bounce round the screen like a demented version of the classic arcade game "Pong". Why trust a brainless formula to get your chosen subject under a focus point - do that yourself is my advice!

Mirrors my experience :thumbs: Good advice on the rest :thumbs:
 
Rovers_Andy said:
I've had my head in the manual this afternoon but would appreciate any feedback from other noinkers who have more experience with the D3/D3S setup for sports/Action shots.
Click to expand...

Is it not focusing properly then? :D :lol:
 
im after some help with my nikon d3 settings for daylight and night football.
can anyone explain what settings they use and why, so i can compare to what ive been using

thanks
chris
 
Errrrm its all in the thread above really.

Football, motorsport, children on a trampoline, all the same.
 
Jim B said:
I'd rather a slightly OOF shot at the critical moment than no shot at all! :bonk:
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But it doesn't work like that... try it for yourself with your D300 - the difference in terms of timing is miniscule - it won't refuse to fire if you set it to "focus".

A bit like using continuous low drive mode, it just introduces a slight delay in the process that is the difference between a high rate of keepers and a low one when shooting fast moving action.

Other types of photography you might want to consider different setups as I know for sure that some of my settings are not suitable for certain things.
 
having done a few games focus and release seems the way to go :) and back button focus is so easy to use on Nikon :D
 
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