Camera Shake...Monopod, any good.

My 1st monopod was a light carbon fibre unit and TBH I didn't find it very helpful and it put me off the idea of using them, however I recently picked up a heavy duty aluminium one on here and I have found it really helpful. So my suggestion would be to get a good solid unit and see how you go.
 
I use a manfrotto monopod for shooting point-to-point races (can't get out of the way with a tripod!) and find it helps a load! Especially with a heavy lens!
 
gramps said:
My 1st monopod was a light carbon fibre unit and TBH I didn't find it very helpful and it put me off the idea of using them, however I recently picked up a heavy duty aluminium one on here and I have found it really helpful. So my suggestion would be to get a good solid unit and see how you go.



Depending on how big the gear your using is, therr is one by manfrotto I think that has 3 little legs that fold out at the bottom. I think it is designed for people doing video with a dslr but might be worth a look.

As for normal monopods they defiantly work for me but if I really want to lock things down I just use a tripod. They are useful for sports shooters and the like because you have more freedom than with a tripod. A lot of places like museums and churches won't allow tripods but will let use use a monopod. If you have a couple of velcro straps with you they can be used to secure the monopod to a railing or some other structure and you're good for really long exposures.

Have you tried shooting multiple frames? I always do this if I'm hand holding at slow shutter speeds, put the camera in continuous mode and fire three or four frames with a single press of the shutter. You will usually find at least one is Sharp as you relax into it, I find setting the slow continuous at about 4 frames a second works better than faster rates if you have a choice.
 
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monopods are great IMO, they eliminate one of the axis and help loads when panning.. your chest thing was a good idea D in W but I can see where it will still cause wobble the distance between support and camera looks too short and the platform is supported by a strap around your neck so causes a 'swing' effect..

if you want a rig off the floor you would be better to try a monopod and a belt pouch IMO, then you have the option of using the monopod as it was intended.
 
Monopods are great for long lenses but you shouldn't need one sub 200mm with proper technique.
 
depends what lens youre supporting, if its a smaller lens id concider checking your technique.

personally i find monopods very restrictive, i wouldnt rely on one to correct a technique issue.
 
depends what lens youre supporting, if its a smaller lens id concider checking your technique.

personally i find monopods very restrictive, i wouldnt rely on one to correct a technique issue.



My original reply was just some ideas for getting sharp images at really low shutter speeds/and or using long focal lengths, but I actually just had a look at the link the OP has there and if that is how you are holding your camera I think this might be contributing to your problems.

You might want to google some techniques and try them out.
 
My 1st monopod was a light carbon fibre unit and TBH I didn't find it very helpful and it put me off the idea of using them, however I recently picked up a heavy duty aluminium one on here and I have found it really helpful. So my suggestion would be to get a good solid unit and see how you go.

Agreed - I had a light walking pole that was threaded to take a camera. Quite unsteady.
Got a heavy Manfrotto and it made a big difference.
Downside soon becomes obvious - carrying it (everything has it's price).
 
never really got on with monopods and find that hand holding with proper technique is the better option, but as said above depends on the equipment being used etc. there are a lot of people out there using them so they must have their use.
 
The concensus seems to be that is it a technique problem, In my own case I completely disagree.

It's an age/weight thing with me.

I'm aware that some of you will disagree but the older I get, I'm 68, the more difficult it becomes for me hold a heavy set up still.....VR or no.

I know, weight should aid stability but not with me.

When I was younger I had no problems holding a heavy lump steady, now it's a different matter.

My sharpest shots these days are taken with a tiny Ixus 100IS and an old faithfull G7.

Shakey D in W.
 
The concensus seems to be that is it a technique problem, In my own case I completely disagree.

It's an age/weight thing with me.

I'm aware that some of you will disagree but the older I get, I'm 68, the more difficult it becomes for me hold a heavy set up still.....VR or no.

I know, weight should aid stability but not with me.

When I was younger I had no problems holding a heavy lump steady, now it's a different matter.

My sharpest shots these days are taken with a tiny Ixus 100IS and an old faithfull G7.

Shakey D in W.

You should try a sturdy monopod and I am sure that you will see some difference. As we get older it is more difficult to keep a steady hand, especially with a lumpy camera.
I can just about get a fair number of steady shots with the D3 and 70-200VRll but the monopod increases the ratio of sharp images from both it and the Sigma 15-30 and Nikon 24-70 which are also fairly lumpy lenses.
 
The concensus seems to be that is it a technique problem, In my own case I completely disagree.

If the photograph in the thread listed in your first post is your usual method of holding a camera (ignoring the plastic set-up), then I can promise you that you do have a major technique problem which is contributing to your blurred images.
 
The concensus seems to be that is it a technique problem, In my own case I completely disagree.

It's an age/weight thing with me.

I'm aware that some of you will disagree but the older I get, I'm 68, the more difficult it becomes for me hold a heavy set up still.....VR or no.

I know, weight should aid stability but not with me.

When I was younger I had no problems holding a heavy lump steady, now it's a different matter.

My sharpest shots these days are taken with a tiny Ixus 100IS and an old faithfull G7.

Shakey D in W.


Totally agree with the above, not enough togs think out side the blinkered boxes of 'ideal' and 'perfection' . . .

CJS

PS, just had a squint at the 'picture link' . . . Technique could do with a bit of work . . . ? but I still hold out for a 'mono-pod' as an option when its a bad day! both my partner and I use mono-pods, especially Hazel as she has a disabling back problem . . . me, just advancing years.
 
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Shooting motorsport I was find a monopod (just a cheap jessops one) helps stabalise (with a 400mm lens). You don't need to see the results of the photos, you can just feel the better stablity in my opinion. And much easier to tuck yourself into a good spot with a monopod than a tripod when races are busy.
 
I have a heavy tripod and rarely take it for walks, unless I know I'm going after macro shots or long exposures. I have a Manfrotto ally monopod and gladly sling it over my shoulder when I've got the 100-400 attached. Failing that, with a long lens you could always try holding the lens against your left shoulder - assuming you're right handed. I use my left eye to the viewfinder and this works well for me.
 
If the photograph in the thread listed in your first post is your usual method of holding a camera (ignoring the plastic set-up), then I can promise you that you do have a major technique problem which is contributing to your blurred images.

The picture in the link was purely to show the G'pod, I moved my hand from the lens to the side of the camera for demonstration purposes.

D in W
 
I use a cheap and cheerful Manfrotto 680B (b is for black, colour is of no importance). Cost me next to nothing s/h on ebay, weighs less than 1kg, and supports 10kg, which is more than enough for some seriously heavy kit. Superb for travel, and in situations where a tripod is a right pain. Not a subsitute for a tripod though.
 
thats a little harsh we're not mind readers.

Sorry, but life is full of 'ifs, buts and maybes' . . . a little bit of allowance and forethought; ask the word 'why' . . . the togs, 'I know best department' would be a much nicer and informative place dont you think . . . ? :shrug:
 
Flats said:
I use a cheap and cheerful Manfrotto 680B (b is for black, colour is of no importance). Cost me next to nothing s/h on ebay, weighs less than 1kg, and supports 10kg, which is more than enough for some seriously heavy kit. Superb for travel, and in situations where a tripod is a right pain. Not a subsitute for a tripod though.

I got that model too and it's idea for my nikon gear

Also a vote for RedSnapper equipment as that's the make of my tripod
 
Depending on how big the gear your using is, therr is one by manfrotto I think that has 3 little legs that fold out at the bottom.

MN678 is the "3 feet/legs" that can fold up & be stored in the monopod - I've got it & use it with a MN680B monopod (see sig)... Its on the expensive side but it does do what its spose to do - althou Ihaven't use it for some time (prob *** I haven't been out with the camera for a wee while :$)
 
The picture in the link was purely to show the G'pod, I moved my hand from the lens to the side of the camera for demonstration purposes.

D in W

It's not so much hand position that's incorrect, it's elbow position. They really should be tucked into the body, not stuck out to the sides.
 
The concensus seems to be that is it a technique problem, In my own case I completely disagree.

It's an age/weight thing with me.

I'm aware that some of you will disagree but the older I get, I'm 68, the more difficult it becomes for me hold a heavy set up still.....VR or no.

I know, weight should aid stability but not with me.

When I was younger I had no problems holding a heavy lump steady, now it's a different matter.

My sharpest shots these days are taken with a tiny Ixus 100IS and an old faithfull G7.

Shakey D in W.

There is a technique that may improve things for you and costs next to nothing.
Get a length of cord long enough to drape over the lens where it meets the body and reach the ground with a bit to spare. The idea is to trap it under your foot so that when the camera is against your eye the cord is in tension due to you pushing up. That way your arms are only pushing in one direction to keep the camera still rather that endlessly making fine adjustments.
 
hollis_f said:
It's not so much hand position that's incorrect, it's elbow position. They really should be tucked into the body, not stuck out to the sides.


Good technique is also keeping the top of your body over your legs so your centre of gravity isn't hanging out in front of you. Keep your feet apart and make yourself as steady as possible. If someone shoved you in the back would you topple forward or be steady as a rock, that's what you want.

When you press the shutter button don't jab at it, squeeze it gently, there is a little bump on the outside of the on/off switch ring, this is so you can kind of just roll your finger pressure back a bit to press the button.

Make sure you left hand is supporting the lens underneath and near the front at the focus ring. If you hold the camera body and leave a fair bit of lenses sticking out unsupported the front of the lenses is going to be waving all over the place.

Press the camera into your face pretty hard, it should become one with your head, it shouldn't move unless your head moves.

Now people find variations on all this that work for them, but its a start. I know physical limitations can make it more difficult but getting as much as you can from technique will save you the hassle of resorting to monopods etc. So often.

Also try both eyes, you might find you are better with one or the other. And check out Joe Macnally and what he calls 'da grip' I find it very useful for handholding at very slow shutter speeds.

Good luck.
 
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It's not so much hand position that's incorrect, it's elbow position. They really should be tucked into the body, not stuck out to the sides.[/QUOTE]

Thanks fellas for all your input.

The main gem to come out of all this is my 'faultless' technique is no all I thought it was.
The elbows tucked into the body does make a difference and in some ways replicates my chestpod.

I do however think that it's not a complete solution, looks like I'm in the market for a monopod.

The Giottos MML3290B with a Manfrotto tilting head 234RC I think may fit the bill.

D in W
 
It's not so much hand position that's incorrect, it's elbow position. They really should be tucked into the body, not stuck out to the sides.[/QUOTE]

Thanks fellas for all your input.

The main gem to come out of all this is my 'faultless' technique is no all I thought it was.
The elbows tucked into the body does make a difference and in some ways replicates my chestpod.

I do however think that it's not a complete solution, looks like I'm in the market for a monopod.

The Giottos MML3290B with a Manfrotto tilting head 234RC I think may fit the bill.

D in W


heres a link for 'da grip' that Joe uses. You might find something useful here.
http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2008/03/10/da-grip/
 
i have a tripod and monopod that share the same plate. The monopod is invaluable for tight spots and where you cant cart a tripod
 
Technique is going to give you the greatest gains, cupping the lens as far to the front as possible and triangulating the elbow back to the body would steady you up no end. I'm about your age and can handhold a hefty 150-500, so I would practice your technique. A monopod is very useful, though I use mine more as a weight support whilst waiting for shots than as a support per se. Shutter speeds at least 1/focal length X crop factor, as well.
 
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