Canon 5d mkII with 100-400 IS L lens

aerobandit

aerobandit

Messages
2,490
Name
Piotr
Edit My Images
Yes
did anyone tried this configuration? I'd like to try to shoot BIF but dont want to get rid of my 5d mkII and replace it with 7d or 1d series. i know that 5d mkII is not designed for action/wildlife but I like it to much to swap it.
i didn't have a chance to try 100-400mm lens on it, so hoping to get some advice from somebody here.
cheers.
 
The 400 f/5.6L USM is considered to be THE lens for birds in flight. Small, light (as 400mm's go), very fast focussing and very sharp.
Not anywhere near as versatile as the 100-400 (lacking IS, zoom and close focussing), but BIF is on of the things the 400 prime does without a doubt do better than the 100-400.
I'd heartily recommend the 100-400L as a general wildlife walkabout but for specifically birds in flight, you'd most likely be better off the with the prime.
 
Last edited:
It is definitely sharper than the 100-400 ;) Remember you're comparing a 4x zoom to a prime.
 
squishy said:
It is definitely sharper than the 100-400 ;) Remember you're comparing a 4x zoom to a prime.
Click to expand...

yep. I'm feeling that "itch" already:) hahaha. crisp, sharp photos:)

manualfocus-g said:
400mm on FF is not that long remember, especially for BIF.
Click to expand...

thats fine. I'm "punishing" myself with 70-210 f3.5/4.5 USM on daily basis, when I need something longer;)
 
5D2 + 100-400 is a pretty good combination for easy BIF, IMO, although I would almost always choose my 1D3 or 7D in preference, but mostly that is because I'm unlikely to be able to fill the frame of the 5D2 and the other bodies I have are more suited to the task.

Here are some examples from my 5D2 and 100-400....

20100215_102547_1485_LR.jpg


20100215_102723_1504_LR.jpg


20100317_120849_1995_LR.jpg


20100317_121429_2022_LR.jpg


20100317_121648_2032_LR.jpg


20100317_141522_2154_LR.jpg
 
Thanks. :)

I used AI Servo for all of them and although I can't tell from the EXIF data I suspect I would have used centre point with assist points active for all the shots.

Focusing success depends significantly on the skills of the photographer. The more accurately you aim and track your subject, and the more smoothly you pan with it the higher the success rate. My skills in that regard are not great, but I'm better than I used to be and that is reflected in my results over the years. I wouldn't bother trying to use the 5D2 for small, darty birds, such as swifts, but then I'm the one that struggles to keep them framed. I'm not sure the camera is the weak point there.

Edit : I don't remember what the bird is in 4 & 5. It was a display at Colchester Zoo. That's all I remember. On further investigation I've discovered that the shots of that bird and the first owl shot were actually with all AF points active. The ducks and the last owl shot were with a single point (plus assist).
 
Last edited:
tdodd said:
Thanks. :)

I used AI Servo for all of them and although I can't tell from the EXIF data I suspect I would have used centre point with assist points active for all the shots.

Focusing success depends significantly on the skills of the photographer. The more accurately you aim and track your subject, and the more smoothly you pan with it the higher the success rate. My skills in that regard are not great, but I'm better than I used to be and that is reflected in my results over the years. I wouldn't bother trying to use the 5D2 for small, darty birds, such as swifts, but then I'm the one that struggles to keep them framed. I'm not sure the camera is the weak point there.

Edit : I don't remember what the bird is in 4 & 5. It was a display at Colchester Zoo. That's all I remember. On further investigation I've discovered that the shots of that bird and the first owl shot were actually with all AF points active. The ducks and the last owl shot were with a single point (plus assist).
Click to expand...

thank you Tim. thats very helpful and reassuring. like Paul suggested in 2nd post, I think I'll rent 100-400 or 400 f/5.6L and see for myself but I'm quite sure I'll buy one of those lenses.
 
That's definitely a Buteo buteo in shots 4 and 5 :thumbs:

Lovely shots Tim, as always :)
 
Full frame image, from 5D2 and 100-400 wide open at 400mm, no edits....

20110325_103843_8008_LR.jpg


100% crop, no edits....
20110325_103843_8008_LR-2.jpg


Another example from today, same specs, no edits....

20110325_112201_8138_LR.jpg


20110325_112201_8138_LR-2.jpg
 
Beware using ANY form of UV/Protection Filter on the 100-400 not matter how good quality, there have been several threads about issues with this lens and filters,

Without the filter it is a cracking wildlife lens and paired with the 5D2 produces stunning images, with the filter its an unpredicable pain in the rear


Real world example below

IMAGE 1 : 5D MKII 100-400 @ 400 1/400th f9 (With Hoyal Pro Filter)

IMG1.jpg


IMAGE 2 : Same Camera and lens without Filter at same location a couple of hours later

IMG2.jpg



The filter/lens combo ruined a full mornings shoot, nothing was sharp, repeated the run in the afternoon without the filter, all great.
 
Last edited:
Totally agree about the filter, especially on the 100-400, or any long lens come to that. I haven't used one for years. I used to, but now I am wiser. :)
 
vaizki said:
If it's for BIF, you don't need the IS anyway..
Click to expand...

I'd agree with that. But for most other subjects - perched birds, general wildlife, zoo animals, aircraft, people, which don't need those high shutter speeds, IS brings real advantages. Of course, a tripod or maybe a monopod can be an alternative solution, if you don't mind the weight, bulk, and potential delay to setting up for a shot.

There are also times when 400mm really is too long. A 5D2 may reduce that number, but never say never. Here's an example at 220mm on a 7D (352mm equivalent) that would have eluded me altogether if I had been stuck with a 400mm lens.

20100429_141422_6777_LR.jpg


or this shot at 200mm on a 40D (320mm equivalent)....

20070925_141657_0001_LR.jpg


or this at 170mm on a 7D (272mm equivalent)....

20100220_101758_4703_LR.jpg


Another point to consider when shooting action with the 5D2 is that you will probably stick with centre point AF (maybe with assist points) rather than select an outer AF point. That may compromise your compositional options, making it useful to be able to shoot a little loose and then crop to suit your needs.

Finally, while this doesn't apply to BIF, consider the MFD for each lens. If you ever want to shoot close up the zoom has the edge there. You can fit extension tubes to the prime (and the zoom) to get closer, but then you lose focus to infinity. With the zoom I could switch from shooting butterflies to birds in the time it takes to refocus. With the prime I may well miss the shot altogether while trying to remove the extension tube I was having to use for the butterflies.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top