canon 70-200mm f/2.8 is mkII
- Thread starter canonguy
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- Roly
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I am no expert as I have only been to three races since getting into the hobby, but this is what I tend to do.
I am sure the motorsport pros will be along and then we can both learn something...
1. Shoot RAW - Gives you so much more control over how the final image comes out and can allow you to tweak exposure later.
2. TV mode - Shutter priority. You will get more keepers if you choose a fairly high shutter speed but this will mean that you can loose back ground blur from panning as well as freezing motion in wheels, this can make the image look a little still (Does that make sense lol) where as a good panning technique and a slow shutter speed will give you photos some motion.
If you have not done any motorsport before I think I would be inclined to start with a shutter speed of around 1/400" and then lower that as I am getting used to the panning through the day.
3. Continuous Shooting High speed - Allows you to take a series of shots and choose you favourite with a mug of tea later on.
4. ISO - Whatever it takes to get the required shutter speed, if in TV mode the camera will automatically decide this.
5. Focus Point - Generally I use the centre point but on occasions I will change this depending on what else I want in the image, for example if I am at the bottom of the craner curves at Donnington I might use the bottom focus point, this will ensure that anything behind is nicely out of focus whilst my target appears at the bottom of the frame.
6. Auto White Balance - Again as I shoot RAW I can tweek the white balance later on, I would just keep checking your histogram to ensure your getting a nice exposure.
7. You may find that 200mm is a little on the short side at some circuits and depending on what your shooting (Bikes are smaller than trucks), so it might be worth investing in a 1.4TC sometime, but having the 50D you will have plenty of size to crop later at home.
8. Sweet Spots - With most circuits in the UK you can have a lot of issues with fences around the circuit, get as close as you can to the fences and they shouldnt show up in the final image. Also (Especially at more popular races) you will see the regular photographers rush to get to the sweet areas of the circuit. Generally they don't bite so get chatting to them, this is what I have done to pick up what little I know.
9. Panning - This I consider to be an art form of it's own and one I have nowhere near mastered, the best advice I can offer is your local roads and practise, the advantage is obvious. There is no entry fee for those roads..
10. Browse the motorsport areas on here and look at the EXIFS and see how that photographer dealt with the conditions etc.
11. Hold out for some better advice...
NOT FAR ENOUGH FROM THE FENCE..
Canon 350D & 70-300mm IS USM
Shooting into the Sun but much better. Canon 50D & 100-400mm IS USM L
Just about right, nice motion in wheels and background Canon 350D & 70-300mm (Maybe slightly faster shutter to get sharpness or dodgy panning technique)
I am sure the motorsport pros will be along and then we can both learn something...
1. Shoot RAW - Gives you so much more control over how the final image comes out and can allow you to tweak exposure later.
2. TV mode - Shutter priority. You will get more keepers if you choose a fairly high shutter speed but this will mean that you can loose back ground blur from panning as well as freezing motion in wheels, this can make the image look a little still (Does that make sense lol) where as a good panning technique and a slow shutter speed will give you photos some motion.
If you have not done any motorsport before I think I would be inclined to start with a shutter speed of around 1/400" and then lower that as I am getting used to the panning through the day.
3. Continuous Shooting High speed - Allows you to take a series of shots and choose you favourite with a mug of tea later on.
4. ISO - Whatever it takes to get the required shutter speed, if in TV mode the camera will automatically decide this.
5. Focus Point - Generally I use the centre point but on occasions I will change this depending on what else I want in the image, for example if I am at the bottom of the craner curves at Donnington I might use the bottom focus point, this will ensure that anything behind is nicely out of focus whilst my target appears at the bottom of the frame.
6. Auto White Balance - Again as I shoot RAW I can tweek the white balance later on, I would just keep checking your histogram to ensure your getting a nice exposure.
7. You may find that 200mm is a little on the short side at some circuits and depending on what your shooting (Bikes are smaller than trucks), so it might be worth investing in a 1.4TC sometime, but having the 50D you will have plenty of size to crop later at home.
8. Sweet Spots - With most circuits in the UK you can have a lot of issues with fences around the circuit, get as close as you can to the fences and they shouldnt show up in the final image. Also (Especially at more popular races) you will see the regular photographers rush to get to the sweet areas of the circuit. Generally they don't bite so get chatting to them, this is what I have done to pick up what little I know.
9. Panning - This I consider to be an art form of it's own and one I have nowhere near mastered, the best advice I can offer is your local roads and practise, the advantage is obvious. There is no entry fee for those roads..
10. Browse the motorsport areas on here and look at the EXIFS and see how that photographer dealt with the conditions etc.
11. Hold out for some better advice...
NOT FAR ENOUGH FROM THE FENCE..
Canon 350D & 70-300mm IS USM
Shooting into the Sun but much better. Canon 50D & 100-400mm IS USM L
Just about right, nice motion in wheels and background Canon 350D & 70-300mm (Maybe slightly faster shutter to get sharpness or dodgy panning technique)
Last edited:
thats great, thanks for all your input, i have done some panning shot before, but that was with my old kit, which was a 300d with a 75-300mm, i have not even used my new set up yet, i.e 50d with 70-200 is mk2, so i should think the iq will be much more superior atleast i hope so, thanks alot mate.
- Messages
- 999
- Name
- Roly
- Edit My Images
- Yes
No problem mate, you will certainly notice the difference especially in the amount of FPS. And those 70-200's are cracking bits of glass, it's on my wish list.
Like I say though I'm no expert but thats just what I've picked up so far, hopefully someone will jump in and put us both straight
Sent from my iPhone using TP Forums
Like I say though I'm no expert but thats just what I've picked up so far, hopefully someone will jump in and put us both straight
Sent from my iPhone using TP Forums