Canon 7D vs Nikon D7000 ?

I think that the point is that if it's possible to take a shot quite quickly there must be a lot of light about...

If however there isn't much light about the shutter speed would have to fall and although the exposure could still be the same the look of the two pictures (one taken with a "correct" exposure with quite a bit of light about at a fast shutter speed and the other taken with a "correct" exposure with less light about and a slow shutter speed) may in all probability look slightly different and possibly render noise differently.

Seems pretty reasonable to me, as is the point that in the real world, if we had time, any of us would probable drop the ISO a bit if the shutter speed was in the 1/xxxx range.
 
The scene would obviously look different, but noise would be rendered the same 'UNLESS' more of the colours in the scene were now noise prone colours, like red and blue channels.
 
You're getting there...

The pictures wouldn't look the same because one would have been taken in much lower light. The image, colours, highlights and shadows etc therefore would almost certainly look different and this would almost certainly affect how the noise was perceived.

The actual amount of noise in a shot could well be irrelevant. What matters is how visible and how damaging it is and it's probably more likely to be both in lower light than more light assuming that the subject matter is the same and therefore equally noise friendly or unfriendly.
 
^^^
My previous reply to you assumed you were talking about an uncontrolled environment like 'outside' at different times.
Well if your doing comparisons out side, the colours of a scene can vary wildly, and the subsequent change in noise isn't directly related to the shutter speed your using.

like the sky for example, one day it could be blue, and the blue channel shows noise more obviously, so the noise to signal ratio would have increased on that day/scene.
However the next day using exactly the same shutter/ISO the sky could be grey which would then change the signal to noise ratio simply due to the lack of the noisy blue channel, thus giving the appearance of less noise.
The point is, that this is a lottery, and isn't directly linked to the shutter speed itself increasing or decreasing the noise to signal ratio.

Instead a more scientific/fair test would be to take two shot's in a controlled environment, where you could increase or decrease a constant light source, and at a time where ambient light was low enough not to impact the results (as that could cause colour shift by probably increasing the percentage of the noisy red channel from tungsten lighting (or similar).

With the above setup I'm willing to bet that a shot taken at 3200 1/100 and 3200 1/1600 would look identical.
 
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Boulderdash.... The 7D doesn't have focus issues, it's just a very advanced focus system with multiple options, and it takes a while for the user to understand which is the best focus solution to use for a given situation.

There has been a thread about some 7D's stopping focusing, but they're few and far between.

Steve

Absolutely true comment above.
Only now after learning how to tweak properly the AF wide choice of menu system I hav been taking full advantage of the AF system of the 7D. The speed it locks and the spot on lock it gets its absolutely fantastic. I spend a lot of time shooting fast pace sports alongside with many using 1D MKII and 1d MKIII and I can tell you that it matches in speed and in my opinion the spot focus choice that the 7D has as an option that I think the 1D doesn't have is an extra advantage. At one time we were shooting field sports on a running track and I swapped from expanded to spot focusing and I was locking on the faces of the athletes while the 1D chaps had to make do with hitting on the chest of the athletes as the focusing light square of those bodies doesn't allow to get the dot in the middle.
In my opinion this is a fantastic option that the 7D has.

By the way just want to leave it clear that I am not trying to imply by any means that one is superior than other. I just wanted to reply to the OP regarding the comment about the 7D AF system he mentioned to have issues.

Amin
 
It's just the truth imho, after all I started out a Canon user 13 months ago...

You used a kit for 13 months and ditched it off to move to another brand? :thinking:

Gosh I have had my 7D for two years and still find things to tweak that improve my shooting.
But hey, who am I to refute your logic? I am still a learner and may be that I am too slow to catch things :shrug:
 
Hi,

I've changed my mind at the eleventh hour and am going with the D7000 over the 7D.

I just prefer the feel of Nikons.
As I'm a newbie I figure I can use the D7000 for a year or 2 while I learn the ropes and then upgrade to the D400, which should be out for a while by then.

Which lenses should I be looking at for a beginners set-up.
Should I bother with the 18-105 kit lens?
Or get a 16-85? Or just a 18-200?
I also want to get a prime...50mm 1:8 or 35mm 1:8
Will any of these lenses be usable if I were to upgrade to the D800?

Thanks in advance...
 
Hi,

I've changed my mind at the eleventh hour and am going with the D7000 over the 7D.

I just prefer the feel of Nikons.
As I'm a newbie I figure I can use the D7000 for a year or 2 while I learn the ropes and then upgrade to the D400, which should be out for a while by then.

Which lenses should I be looking at for a beginners set-up.
Should I bother with the 18-105 kit lens?
Or get a 16-85? Or just a 18-200?
I also want to get a prime...50mm 1:8 or 35mm 1:8
Will any of these lenses be usable if I were to upgrade to the D800?

Thanks in advance...

As the D800 doesnt even exsit yet, then no they wont be useable with it.
The 16-85 is a DX lens, as is the 18-200, as is the 18-105, as is the 35mm. Only the 50 will work as intended on an FX body, all the others will use whatever crop mode Nikon may or may not include in the body.
 
As the D800 doesnt even exsit yet, then no they wont be useable with it.
The 16-85 is a DX lens, as is the 18-200, as is the 18-105, as is the 35mm. Only the 50 will work as intended on an FX body, all the others will use whatever crop mode Nikon may or may not include in the body.

Thanks, how or where do i find out this information for myself?

&

Which lens would you recommend for a "walkabout"
 
Tamron 17-50 non vc 2.8 or if you have £££ to burn go for the nikon. Long range zooms like the 18-200 are jack of all trades master of none. Evan the cheap 35mm 1.8 will eclipse it in the IQ dept as would the tamron
 
Thanks, how or where do i find out this information for myself?

&

Which lens would you recommend for a "walkabout"

One of your first purchases should be the 35mm 1.8 and probably a Tamron 17-50mm 2.8 along with a 85mm 1.8

My sig shows the lens choices I made and am happy with them, although bare in mind I use the 'Thinktank Belt System' so I can change a lens in a few seconds.

Below is a shot taken with the 35mm 1.8 a few days ago, you can get great bokeh with it, especially if you frame the shot in camera rather than cropping in post.

Edit: also note that DX lenses will work on FX bodies, but you get some vignetting in the corners.

5899971807_5ffd121291_b.jpg
 
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You used a kit for 13 months and ditched it off to move to another brand? :thinking:

Gosh I have had my 7D for two years and still find things to tweak that improve my shooting.
But hey, who am I to refute your logic? I am still a learner and may be that I am too slow to catch things :shrug:

Well I'v only been shooting since April 10, but from my experience so far, for what I shoot anyway, the Nikon has been a better solution all around for me so far, which is all that matters imo.
 
I went with a d7000 and the following lens setup 35mm 1.8 50mm 1.4. 85mm 1.4. Tamron 17-50 non vc and tamron 70-200 2.8. I sold the 18-105 fairly quickly.
 
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I shot with my D7000 for the first time yesterday and I'm delighted with it. At first the small size compared to my D700 was a worry, but with the 35 1.8 it was a dream to use. The IQ is astounding.
 
Grip should be with me today. I'll definitely need it to balance an 80-200.
 
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