Cheers!

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Steve
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Inspired by this video from Gavin Hoey

Cheers!-0125.jpg
 
Great shot, especially if this is the first attempt!
Just been watching the video, so a couple of practical questions:
How did you actually attach the string to the glasses?
I assume in editing the string just gets cloned out?
Finally, what are you using for the colouring? I've tried a few basic drops photos and just used pen ink that I have, but seems to not be an even texture.

Oh yes, and how wet did you get ;)
 
I tried to use a 0.8mm diamond drill to drill the glass, but it wouldn't touch it; Even after grinding a "starter". I ended up attaching small pieces of tubing, the smallest as used by fishing enthusiasts to make up traces, cut down to about 4mm in length, and attached two horizontally to the rim of the glass 180 deg. to each other with a touch of 2-pack high strength epoxy. The glass was thoroughly degreased beforehand. One of the joints subsequently gave way but after being re-attached they all stood up well to the abuse yet to come.

I used 5.5KG/12lb monofilament line; A double loop through the tubing as a halter and then a single line clamped to a wooden beam about 800mm above, held in my case across two light stands.

Yes, the line, and the tubing/adhesive do get cloned out. Next time I will probably use a slightly stronger line. I found it difficult to knot a line that I could hardly see and I can't see that it would make much difference to the cloning operation if I used a thicker line.

Food colouring. Available in small bottles from every supermarket where I have looked. Same as I use for water drop photography. Don't use too much or it goes opaque. I suggest you mix up a milk container full of each colour as you'll be topping up a few times before you get it right!

Now for the Rolls-Royce aspect. I'm lucky enough have have a "StopShot Studio" by Cognisys. I connect my D750 with a 50mm 1.8 lens to the StopShot together with two flashguns. I also connect up a microphone above the glasses in order to sense the noise of the collision yet to come. All in a darkened room. Camera is on manual at 1 second, and in the case of this image, aperture set to F8. The flashguns are set to manual at 1/64 power behind the glasses directed to a white background about 1 metre away from the collision point, so that the glasses will be purely backlit.

I set one glass swinging and held the other back until I judge it's time to launch the other into a collision. On colliding the microphone triggers the StopShot to open the shutter and 160 milliseconds later the flashes fire. The figure of 160, the aperture and flashgun power are purely trial and error and in my case set remotely from the computer. I wanted the glasses to overlap otherwise it if they were separated, it would be too easy to assume it was an entirely photoshopped image.

It turned out very successful. Only 30 images to get the settings and technique right, and some of the preceding images were quite reasonable.

I should mention that I was using a baby's paddling pool under the glasses. I still needed towels on the floor. Ideally I would use a larger pool, but I'm limited for space.

I was a bit surprised that the glasses could take so much abuse and remain unbroken. I came to the conclusion that the fluid in the glass must damp the collision. I was tempted to launch a high-power swing and attempt to break the glasses which would have made a great image, but I was scared of the inevitable clean up operation.
 
Thanks very much for the reply.
Some very helpful information and comments there.
I noticed in the video that they used a smaller swimming pool!

I have looked at the Cognisys systems previously. Seems to be a much more reliable way than simply hoping for the best with a remote shutter lead.
I was surprised you used glass glasses. I had assumed these shots would be used with plastic disposable ones. I am not sure I would be in favour if I try this with the family glasses :)
 
If you were thinking of buying some timing gear I would suggest that "CameraAxe" equipment might be a better buy than cognisys. For a start, you don't have to buy from the USA as they have a UK agent who holds good stocks. See http://proto-pic.co.uk/brands/CAMERA-AXE.html . Maurice Ribble, the developer has done a whole load of videos about using his gear and they are well worth watching. See http://www.cameraaxe.com/user-guide-videos/. I understand that his forums are also full of advice and (sensible) questions get responded to.

I had occasion to ask for help from Cognisys and found them a bit condescending.

Yes, I'm surprised I used glass glasses as well. I just couldn't find any plastic glasses locally that looked anything like the real thing. Nobody noticed that two glasses had gone missing. I'm probably safe at least until Christmas!
 
Great shot, especially if this is the first attempt!
Just been watching the video, so a couple of practical questions:
How did you actually attach the string to the glasses?
I assume in editing the string just gets cloned out?
Finally, what are you using for the colouring? I've tried a few basic drops photos and just used pen ink that I have, but seems to not be an even texture.

Oh yes, and how wet did you get ;)

Same as the OP, I was inspired to emulate Gavin Hoey's video.
Bought a Kiddies Paddling pool off Argos for £3.99, some red and yellow food colouring, Boom mic stand for support and Plastic Glasses from local caravan supplies shop (£2.50 each)
Used a small drill on the Dremel to make a tiny hole either side and fishing line to support.

View attachment 36471

I have a 2m Collapsible background which gave me a (bonus ?) "cross" effect on diffusing the flash

View attachment 36470
 
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My OP was using a flashgun at a lower level than the glasses, pointing away from the camera and illuminating the background to backlight the subject rather than pointing towards the subject through a diffuser. I think this also was the way Gavin did it?

Caravan shop! - I didn't think of that. I'll see if I can pick up a couple and give it another go. I want to try dropping a "glass", or glasses, full of liquid onto a hard reflective surface (of various colours). I didn't dare to do that with real glass as I was sure they would shatter. Once I've got the technique, I may try it with glass - perhaps just the stem will break?
 
Very nice, Steve - works really well with the colours you have chosen. Think I will give that a shot myself, though I envisage chaos in the house when I try this!
 
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