I have been doing it wrong then but the raw as shot looks pretty close to right so my 18% grey card must be somewhere near. I am always looking to improve so what is the most accurate way to get custom wb set. Sorry to hi jack but it may be useful to the OP in the long run.
You just need a truly neutral target - equal quantities of red, blue and green. That could be pure white (which is just a very light shade of grey) or any neutral grey tone, doesn't matter. White paper is pretty good and it's usually quite easy to judge if it is clean white, but that can vary fractionally with artificial whiteners giving a tiny blue tint.
In practise, many people use whatever is to hand - white door, white table cloth, white t-shirt - often good enough. Finding a truly neutral grey subject in real life is quite difficult - take a grey/sliver car for example and it looks neutral enough, until you see it next to another grey car when they're clearly both slightly different.
It's usually more important to get the colour absolutely consistent shot to shot than strictly dead accurate. Our eyes can compensate for slight inaccuracy, but are intollerant of changes from one frame to the next.
For guaranteed accuracy, you need a certified white balance card. I use a Kodak card, which is 90% neutral white on one side for white balance, and 18% grey on the other for exposure. But the grey is not neutral, and not claimed to be - mine is fractionally yellow/greenish.
For the test shot, the key is to ensure that the target is illuminated by exactly the same light as the subject. So long as the target is not blown to pure white with over exposure, or too dark and full of coloured speckles of noise, the brightness doesn't matter.
Another method is to include a white balance target in a test shot, and use that in post processing with the WB dropper - can't be wrong.
Edit: BTW, Lowepro bags are not 18% grey (a bit lighter) and not strictly neutral either. Lowepro has never claimed otherwise.