colour slide what should I know

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David
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Got some shot rolls I don't really love any of the pics on and I got a 5l kit of tetenal 3 bath..... how do I get going :D

(120 btw and I'm fairly used to BnW dev and printing)

I shouldn't need to do any colour correction as its all daylight stuff
 
Mike's the man to speak to, he does E6 at home.
 
Yeah, ekimeno is da colour man...


Hints & tips...I dunno, you need to be prepared, you need to be able to keep all your chemicals at the right temp with bowls of water or a tempering tank for the job.
Its no different to b/w in approach, you still have to monitor temp, measure chemicals accurately and be methodical, extra care should be taken to avoid contamination.

Colour correction is done when you choose the film, daylight film is for.....daylight, tungsten film is for scenes shot under tungsten lighting, there are also colour filters you can use at the point of capture to balance artificial light like florescent or mercury vapour....:)

what film have you shot anyway..?
 
scanning

kk will be v careful with colour temps (thinking the paper dev trays just became waterbaths) and make sure I don't screw up the order

out of date provia 400 from 7day shop
 
my slides are LOVELY the first set are a bit under exposed as I kinda broke the timer (shhhhh don't tell photosoc). It was all much easier than I was expecting and no weird **** happened.

What do I do now? I have no proper scanner :confused: I left em hanging up, am soooo excited and chuffed :D
 
What do I do now? I have no proper scanner :confused: I left em hanging up, am soooo excited and chuffed :D

First off, resist the temptation to do anything with them until tomorrow - let them dry thoroughly and the emulsion sort of "cures" for want of a better word - certainly gets a bit less fragile.

Second - Save up for a proper scanner :LOL:
 
LOL I looked at them ALOT on the lightbox but never put them down for fear of scratching :D

all hung up, whats the best way to store/view I'm thinking to cut them into individual pics and put in an envelope to take home

long term want a scanner
 
I tend to do everything into strips of 6 images - BnW negs or E6, mainly because I've not got a slide projector, and they all end up going through the Canoscan 8800F - bit sad really, I know, but i just don't have the space to get a proper wet printing setup.

Having said that, I've been converting a few shots for a mate of mine, ex-pro togger, who's got a bunch of shots on 120 velvia, who wants his portfolio stuff into digital. Did a couple of scans for him, gave 'em a quick once over in CS4 and printed 'em on a iP4600 printer and the end result actually looked better than the cibachrome's he'd had done when the slides were fresh. So I suppose i'll not be losing any sleep over not having the wet printing facilities. :LOL:
 
I tend to do everything into strips of 6 images - BnW negs or E6, mainly because I've not got a slide projector, and they all end up going through the Canoscan 8800F - bit sad really, I know, but i just don't have the space to get a proper wet printing setup.

Having said that, I've been converting a few shots for a mate of mine, ex-pro togger, who's got a bunch of shots on 120 velvia, who wants his portfolio stuff into digital. Did a couple of scans for him, gave 'em a quick once over in CS4 and printed 'em on a iP4600 printer and the end result actually looked better than the cibachrome's he'd had done when the slides were fresh. So I suppose i'll not be losing any sleep over not having the wet printing facilities. :LOL:

these are 120 (6x6) so 6 images is actually quite long :D

I need to find someone with a proper scanner I can steal

what's a flatbed like for doing TP scans?
 
ah right - 120's - fair enough - I'm sure you'd guessed I was talking 35mm :). I'd probably still chop into 2 frames at a time rather than singles, mainly as the extra length helps stability in the scanning frames.

By TP scans I assume you mean a quick and dirty 800x800px job. To be honest I tend to scan 120 frames at 2400dpi, spot them up for dust if needed, then downsample in software rather than just bash out a quick scan at a lower res. mainly because I like to minimise the handling of the film - get it scanned once, then leave it in its file so I don't put my fumble-fingers all over it and beggar it up!
 
ah right - 120's - fair enough - I'm sure you'd guessed I was talking 35mm :). I'd probably still chop into 2 frames at a time rather than singles, mainly as the extra length helps stability in the scanning frames.

By TP scans I assume you mean a quick and dirty 800x800px job. To be honest I tend to scan 120 frames at 2400dpi, spot them up for dust if needed, then downsample in software rather than just bash out a quick scan at a lower res. mainly because I like to minimise the handling of the film - get it scanned once, then leave it in its file so I don't put my fumble-fingers all over it and beggar it up!

I meant cos I only have a bog standard flatbed and thats in the print shop

The Canon 8800F can scan them Give me a call if you want them done

I lurve you chaz, will do at some point :D
 
If you are printing chemically and not scanner in you will have to use the right filters to remove the film colour which is a orange ish colour. but if scanned then this will be done after.


On a slide film :thinking:

The orange mask is only present on colour negative film and as you say, this will need to be 'removed' at the scanning stage.
 
There was an adapter gizmo with mirrors for use with ordinary flatbeds, which you'd prolly find on eBay, but it's a waste of time.

A photo flatbed (with a lamp in the lid) is far more versatile than a conventional film scanner.

As TheBigYin says, once you've got past familiarising yourself with the kit, you only want to scan once. Rescan if better equipment makes it worthwhile. `Twas so damned slow when I was using a P120 that I quickly lost any enthusiasm for it.

The local university digitized their donated archives recently and then chucked all the plates and negs in a skip and poured paint over them :crying:
 
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