Configuring AF & Exposure Lock

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Jamie
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I've been experimenting with different focussing configurations on my D200 to see what system currently works for me. I find the switch from continuous to single to manual focus somewhat clumsy and can't reliably change it to single (the middle option) on the fly which is unfortunate because whilst using single focus and then recomposing is fine in most circumstances the occasional instance where I want continuous tends to occur in a situation where time is of the essence and as such taking the camera away from my eye to change AF setting is a hindrance. Instead I've settled on using continuous focus alongside using the AF-L/AE-L button (set to just AF-L) and simply hold this whilst recomposing then should I want to use continuous focus all I need to do is forget this button. The problem I have arises when I also wish to lock exposure (which is a minority of instances, hence only setting the button to AF-L). I know the function button can be used to replicate the effect of said AF-L button but is it possible to set it to just AE-L so that the two functions that by default are controlled by two buttons are instead split across the two? If not, is there another work around I could use to have AF-L on one button and AE-L on another?
 
I used to have a setup similar to this - if I recall, set it to AF-C, then set AF-ON to the button only (i.e. not linked to shutter). Leave AE-L as default. Then hold down AF-on to track your subject, when you're happy, let go of AF-on, boom, AF no longer focusses and is now effectively locked. Only downside is I always found AF-C not quite as accurate as AF-S...I couldn't rely on it to get me decent 100% (or even 80%) reliable shots at say 1.4-2.8 ... (even on a D300 but it may work for you.
 
Thanks Cheng! I'll give this a try, although I've never been a fan of disabling the AF on the shutter button. Still, it's worth a try as it's the only way I can see me getting both AF-L and AF-E control in the way I (poorly) explained above.
 
Use it for a while, and you'll love it. When I discovered this was possible on my D70, I was over the moon. Separating AF and exposure is possibly the greatest step you can do to controlling your photos. It's the first thing I do the moment I setup a new camera!

One way to train yourself to get into this habit is practice taking silhouette shots of people. You'll never be able to get the correct exposure, and get correct focus, without this technique! If you try this with shutter tied to both focus and exposure, chances are the person you try silhouetting will be exposed correctly (but long shutter speed). The correct technique would be to lock exposure on background with half press of shutter, then AF on person with nearest AF point, then (optionally) recompose as minimally as possible. That's technically the way to get the sharpest picture...altho most of my life I have done it the other way around, AF first, then lock exposure, THEN recompose. I've had decent results although like I say you'll get sharper if you compose and focus, rather than focus and recompose.
 
Use it for a while, and you'll love it. When I discovered this was possible on my D70, I was over the moon. Separating AF and exposure is possibly the greatest step you can do to controlling your photos. It's the first thing I do the moment I setup a new camera!

One way to train yourself to get into this habit is practice taking silhouette shots of people. You'll never be able to get the correct exposure, and get correct focus, without this technique! If you try this with shutter tied to both focus and exposure, chances are the person you try silhouetting will be exposed correctly (but long shutter speed). The correct technique would be to lock exposure on background with half press of shutter, then AF on person with nearest AF point, then (optionally) recompose as minimally as possible. That's technically the way to get the sharpest picture...altho most of my life I have done it the other way around, AF first, then lock exposure, THEN recompose. I've had decent results although like I say you'll get sharper if you compose and focus, rather than focus and recompose.

I'll have a play but do feel it may be a marmite thing.

In the silhouette circumstance I'd rather be in full control of exposure as it can be unpredictable how the camera will meter it so I'd be using manual.

It's interesting to see how everyone approaches a similar scenario with an entirely different technique.
 
Use it for a while, and you'll love it. When I discovered this was possible on my D70, I was over the moon. Separating AF and exposure is possibly the greatest step you can do to controlling your photos. It's the first thing I do the moment I setup a new camera!

Absolutely, and it's a shame that more people don't know about it. Focussing and metering are entirely separate actions that shouldn't be combined, and the associated advantages for focussing and recomposing are the icing on the cake.
 
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