Considering Mirrorless

If you have a 5D MKIII and a 35 then why not use that? No mirrorless is going to top that combination. I'd use the money you would spend on another system and go abroad on holiday.

Don't know if you have looked at Dan's work but the 35mm didn't make a impact I think he was hoping not saying that it wouldn't and he couldn't adapt to his style but the test ones done didn't really fall into his style.

Hopefully you take that as intended Dan and understand what I mean.
 
If you have a 5D MKIII and a 35 then why not use that? No mirrorless is going to top that combination. I'd use the money you would spend on another system and go abroad on holiday.

My 35mm is about the size of my 135mm f2 and heavier - that with a gripped 5DM3 makes for a rather intimidating setup to people on the street. It's also manual focus only, I'm never going to get close enough to use it without causing a fuss.

I currently use the 135mm f2 for street photography, I like the focal length but I think I'd get a better reaction from people on the street with a smaller camera.

I also need a second camera for a wedding, I could rent - but it would be money that could go into another system.

Don't know if you have looked at Dan's work but the 35mm didn't make a impact I think he was hoping not saying that it wouldn't and he couldn't adapt to his style but the test ones done didn't really fall into his style.

Hopefully you take that as intended Dan and understand what I mean.

I wouldn't mind giving 35mm another go in the street - but not with my 5dm3, I was just not comfortable with it for this.
 
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If you really wanted equivalent performance to your 5D3 and 135mm f/2 on mirrorless then one option to consider might be the Samsung NX system that has an 85mm 1.4. Granted its not especially small but you can actually pick it up for sub £500 on amazon at the moment, add in an NX20 body and that's less than £1000. Plus the Samsung system seems to have a good selection of pancake primes(the 30mm f/2 is £250) that would give a very compact setup for getting closer to subjects.
 
If you really wanted equivalent performance to your 5D3 and 135mm f/2 on mirrorless then one option to consider might be the Samsung NX system that has an 85mm 1.4. Granted its not especially small but you can actually pick it up for sub £500 on amazon at the moment, add in an NX20 body and that's less than £1000. Plus the Samsung system seems to have a good selection of pancake primes(the 30mm f/2 is £250) that would give a very compact setup for getting closer to subjects.

Thanks for suggestion,

I have already placed my order now :) I hope not to be disappointed..
 
Wouldn't you be better getting rid of the Zeiss 35 and getting the Sigma 35? Manual focus through the OVF is a real pain on a DSLR and would be really annoying for me in street photography. People will notice you with almost any camera anyway and a 135mm is a bit too far removed from the action for me. Up close and personal is what you really want and a 35 or a 50 are classic.

A second body for me would be one where I could mount the same lenses, like a 35 on one and an 85 on another. Having two systems is costly and trying to get a style and colour uniformity there if you were shooting an event would annoy me in post processing.
 
Wouldn't you be better getting rid of the Zeiss 35 and getting the Sigma 35? Manual focus through the OVF is a real pain on a DSLR and would be really annoying for me in street photography. People will notice you with almost any camera anyway and a 135mm is a bit too far removed from the action for me. Up close and personal is what you really want and a 35 or a 50 are classic.

A second body for me would be one where I could mount the same lenses, like a 35 on one and an 85 on another. Having two systems is costly and trying to get a style and colour uniformity there if you were shooting an event would annoy me in post processing.

The Zeiss is up for sale, but I'm in no rush to sell it - I like what it does, and works nicely with Magic Lantern's MF aids.

People will notice me, but I believe reactions will be different and what I 'really want' is down to personal taste :)

Worst-case scenario I sell the EM-1 used and lose what I might have spent hiring.
 
Yes it's really important to use a system which suits you - in fact that is more important than anything else. In that regard I am of course just commenting in light of my own experiences and the work I do, which naturally may differ to others, and I certainly have to place a range of demands on my kit. I found that the autofocus on all of the bodies pre-XT1 was poor and completely unsuitable for the work I do which is often dynamic or wildlife related. The point about IBIS is that if you undertake controlled portraiture or wedding work then IBIS really comes into its own. The dark elements of a wedding are normally the most static phases of the day such as the ceremony and this is where you can leverage IBIS and end up utilising significantly lower ISO values than I would if I were using my full frame equipment. The same would go for the controlled bridal portraits or getting ready shots. But of course if you don't do that kind of work then it would not be a concern.

Theses day all my work is my own personal stuff,as those i have shot some photos for little one school,due to my illness getting worst had to give up all my DSLR gear,i try a few ccs systems but in the end found it was the Fuji i kept coming back to.
I mainly just shoot street stuff theses days,but as you say always buy the system that suit you :)
 
Having two systems is costly and trying to get a style and colour uniformity there if you were shooting an event would annoy me in post processing.

If you consider the x2 (or x1.5 if going for APS-C) crop factor MFT and 25mm at f1.4 = FF and 50mm at f2.8, there's no need to alter your style of shooting. Regarding processing, it's simplicity itself IMVHO as all you need is to set up 2 presets in the processing package of your choice. This is what I did with my 5D and G1 and now do with my A7 and G1. All you then do is select the shots from each camera in turn running the presets for each and you end up with noise, sharpness and colour prererences looking uniform if that's what you want.
 
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