Copy Me Lighting Thread 14 - Simple Portrait

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Michael A. Sewell
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26Sept15-024.jpg

Although shot in the studio with studio heads, this is easily reproduced with the most rudimentary of speedlights. In fact the studio heads were the most basic available, deliberately chosen to demonstrate good results are not dependant on expensive equipment.

The accent light is a first generation Lencarta SmartFlash 200Ws head, firing at ¼ output through a cheap 60x60 softbox frame left, and just beyond the distance of the subject. It needed to be at a ¼ output due to the distance between the light head and the subject being greater than the usual "just outside the frame", to reduce any chance of flare from the softbox.

It was placed slightly higher than our subject's head, which you can tell from the light skimming across his waistcoat on his right shoulder (frame left). The light on his right shoulder is providing shape and texture to the garment, and shirt sleeve.

The main light is camera right, again just above head height. This is another SmartFlash 200Ws studio head, firing through a 70x100 softbox which was rotated to an upright position. The intention was to imitate a window like catchlight in our subject's eye. Again, the position of the light is almost in line with his shoulder, allowing the light to skim across his left shoulder, once again providing texture and shape to his shirt and waistcoat.

The main light was much closer, at a distance of around three feet, which meant the power was at 1/16, and also ensured the light was very soft on this side, compared with the harsher falloff on the far side of his face.

It's basically a two light setup, in a cross lit configuration. Both heads are facing each other.

Nikon D4 1/125th sec ISO100 24-70mm f2.8 @2.8 & 70mm

Budget version:

The output of the two heads is so low, they can be replaced with speedlights easily.
The accent light would be swapped for a speedlight at ½ power, firing into a silver reflective umbrella, and marginally nearer the subject. The silver lined umbrella would provide a more contrasting light, although slightly softer due to the umbrella size, if around 33cm.

The main light would be swapped for a speedlight at ¼ output, firing through a shoot through umbrella. This would produce a similarly soft light as the 70x100cm softbox, but you would get a circular highlight in the subjects eye. If you particularly wanted to recreate the rectangular "window" reflection in your subject's eye, one method would be to mask the umbrella to produce a rectangular highlight.

Things to bear in mind:

If you try the budget version, and mask the umbrella; your highlight may appear distorted in your subject's eye due to the curvature of the umbrella, and the curvature of your subjects cornea.

All the lighting equipment required for the budget version can be bought for less than half the cost of one cheap 200Ws studio head. (Unless you're married, and lied to your wife about how much you paid for your studio heads. I hope she doesn't read this!).
 
My go
Feb 15 (6) by Mark Elsworth, on Flickr

I went for the cheap route.
Yongnuo 560 into a silver reflective umbrella for the accent.
Another yongnuo 560 into a white shoot through umbrella.
White reflector hanging from a light stand as the backdrop, I moved forward so any light spilling onto the backdrop wouldn't interfere with how the lighting should look.

I did notice when I shot in black and white I had to lower the power on the accent light to get the same look.
 
I love these threads. I might not comment too much, but its great to read the explanation and see the output. Thanks for taking the effort to create it.
 
My go
Feb 15 (6) by Mark Elsworth, on Flickr

I went for the cheap route.
Yongnuo 560 into a silver reflective umbrella for the accent.
Another yongnuo 560 into a white shoot through umbrella.
White reflector hanging from a light stand as the backdrop, I moved forward so any light spilling onto the backdrop wouldn't interfere with how the lighting should look.

I did notice when I shot in black and white I had to lower the power on the accent light to get the same look.

Very nicely done Mark. ;)
 
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