Creating natural light with strobes in a bedroom?

[thirtyfiveframe]

Hello again. Still shooting linens for a company. I wanted to ask for advice on how to recreate window lighting and highlights on a bed such as the examples I attached. I have 3 studio strobes, and large octagon softboxes. I also have the stock circular modifiers that come with strobes. I shoot in actual bedrooms so there still isn't much space..... which is where I seem to be running into issues as well. I figured the lights need to be farther away from the subject to create that softer light. Correct me if i'm wrong?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Garry Edwards]

Basically, it works the other way round.

If you want the light to be soft, it needs to be large (relative to the size of the subject) so if you're shooting something as large as a bed then the softbox, silk or whatever needs to be very large.
It also needs to be close, because the further you move it away from the subject, the smaller it becomes in terms of effect - technically speaking, if you move the light source twice as far away then the effect is that it becomes half the size - but it often appears to produce an effect of just a quarter of the size.

Also, the closer the light source is to the subject, the softer the shadows will be, i.e. the shadows become less clearly defined as the light gets closer.

And the final point here is that the light falls off much more rapidly when the light is close to the subject.

All of these points are clearly demonstrated in your example photos. You should be able to produce much better results than those.

 

[thirtyfiveframe]

Basically, it works the other way round.

If you want the light to be soft, it needs to be large (relative to the size of the subject) so if you're shooting something as large as a bed then the softbox, silk or whatever needs to be very large.
It also needs to be close, because the further you move it away from the subject, the smaller it becomes in terms of effect - technically speaking, if you move the light source twice as far away then the effect is that it becomes half the size - but it often appears to produce an effect of just a quarter of the size.

Also, the closer the light source is to the subject, the softer the shadows will be, i.e. the shadows become less clearly defined as the light gets closer.

And the final point here is that the light falls off much more rapidly when the light is close to the subject.

All of these points are clearly demonstrated in your example photos. You should be able to produce much better results than those.

ah I see. I should have the power on the strobe relatively low then I would guess? To avoid harsh highlights on the surface since its closer?

 

[Garry Edwards]

ah I see. I should have the power on the strobe relatively low then I would guess? To avoid harsh highlights on the surface since its closer?

You should have the power set to whatever it needs to be to create the correct exposure for the most important part of the subject - which applies to every shot taken, regardless of subject, type of lighting or anything else.

 

[john_s]

If it’s possible, you could try putting a white sheet over the whole of the window and turn the whole window into a softbox. That’ll be easier in a bungalow though than an apartment block! Place the strobe outside and bingo... giant, window sized softbox. If that’s not practical, you might be able to do similar by putting a sheet over the bedroom doorway to make a similar large softbox.

If you have access to a suitable space, it might be as easy to see if you can mock up a bedroom set and that may remove some of the practical limitations of real world bedrooms.

Another option might be to ask around some local studios. I’ve seen a few studios with bedroom sets.

 

[Pete E]

I might be way off here, but if the ceilings are white or light coloured, why not use one or more flashes in the bounce mode?

I would set them up reasonably low in the room, and possibly flag them to restrict the light going direct to the main bed area, and then you should get soft bounced light filling the room...

You would have to be aware of colour casts of the walls if they are a strong colour so it might not work in every case, but give it a go...

If your flash units support TTL, I would start there with the camera on manual such that it allows the flash to over power as much as possible the ambient lightc coming through any windows...

Edit: ignore that, I was thinking you wanted soft light in the room, but you actually want to duplicate window light...my mistake!

 

[photo si]

Without meaning to sound rude, are you a photographer or do you work for the company doing something else and have been given the task of photographer?
Reading this and your other thread on ‘noise’ makes me think the company should really invest in professional photography in a studio with proper room sets.

 

[dweeble]

You know, there are a few blown bits, but as product photography goes, if I was looking to buy bed linen, those wouldn't scare me off. I'd say a 7......but I agree no harm in working towards an 8 or 9! Photo si, perhaps a more encouraging note would be nice?

PS "I’ve seen a few studios with bedroom sets"....blimey, what sort of trade is that for?

PPS Talking way above my pay grade in lighting terms, I would say try for something directional and morningy, or gel it for an end of the day look?

PPPS Perhaps rather than fuss about lighting details, think about set dressing and really telling a story? For me that's what lifts stuff above run of the mill catalogue work...

 

[photo si]

Photo si, perhaps a more encouraging note would be nice?

I could blow smoke up someone’s backside, but I’d prefer they knew the basics before charging people for work clearly above their ability

PS "I’ve seen a few studios with bedroom sets"....blimey, what sort of trade is that for?

Boudoir photography. It’s very popular and a good earner!