Beginner Crop mode

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Lee
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Can someone tell me if my 5D Mkll can do crop mode, and does this mean I can extend the reach of my 300mm lens by 1.6x to 480mm, the same as if I were actually using an APS-C camera? Meaning, will it take photos at 480mm zoom and allow me more detail?
 
What you are describing is simply cropping. It doesn't matter whether it happens in or out of the camera, and it doesn't extend the reach. Your sensor has a fixed pixel density, and you'd just be using fewer pixels whichever way you did it.

But if an APS-C camera had the same total number of pixels on its smaller sensor (i.e., a higher pixel density) than a similar full frame camera, then you'd have more pixels to play with in an image from the APS-C camera than you would have from an equivalent crop of the full frame sensor.
 
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Thanks guys. I thought it wouldn't be that simple. So yeah, If I want to get photos closer to my subject and with good detail using my existing lens, I'd need a crop sensor camera.
 
Thanks guys. I thought it wouldn't be that simple. So yeah, If I want to get photos closer to my subject and with good detail using my existing lens, I'd need a crop sensor camera.

As you say, not so simple.......but can be seen that way!

Your 5D2 full frame has 21MP sensor but for example the 80D crop sensor is 24MP, you have more MP on a smaller sensor.....compared to say cropping in on a 5D2 image you might have 15MP image.

In real terms it matters little but there are downsides to consider ~ the 5D2 will(?) give you cleaner files @ higher ISO's compared to the same ISO on the 80D.

The cropped 5D2 file because it is lower noise will be a good candidate for increasing its size!

Ultimately, what is your intended use ~ web only or larger prints.

Just some things to think about above the simplistic 'view' ;)
 
As you say, not so simple.......but can be seen that way!

Your 5D2 full frame has 21MP sensor but for example the 80D crop sensor is 24MP, you have more MP on a smaller sensor.....compared to say cropping in on a 5D2 image you might have 15MP image.

In real terms it matters little but there are downsides to consider ~ the 5D2 will(?) give you cleaner files @ higher ISO's compared to the same ISO on the 80D.

The cropped 5D2 file because it is lower noise will be a good candidate for increasing its size!

Ultimately, what is your intended use ~ web only or larger prints.

Just some things to think about above the simplistic 'view' ;)

Actually only 8.2mp when 21mp on full-frame are cropped down to 1.6x format. Also, lens sharpness is reduced while noise goes up.
 
Actually only 8.2mp when 21mp on full-frame are cropped down to 1.6x format. Also, lens sharpness is reduced while noise goes up.

Ah! the details :)

Though, cropping is not necessarily about 'matching' to the APS-C crop sensor......I have in the past cropped my 5D3 files for compositional purposes and cared not if I was cropping to 'crop sensor' size ;)
 
You've hit on the one instance where a crop-body camera has a slight advantage over a full-frame body. Where you can't fill the frame of a full-frame sensor. In that case, you have to crop and shed megapixels.

It's not awful and in every other application, a full frame sensor is state of the art.

If telephoto reach is a significant need for what you shoot, you might invest in a 2nd, crop-sensor body. In the US, you can get a used 80D for $600 and a used 70D for $350.

Personally, I carry 2 bodies; a 6Dii FF and an 80D 1.6. Each gets a different lens. Long one goes on the 80D. And frankly, I use them interchangeably. When I get into post processing, for what I do, images captured on both sensors are more than adequate as long as the camera operator did his job.
 
What 300mm lens do you have?
Depending on that the cheapest way to get extra reach is to buy a 1.4 TC (that would give you 420mm )if the camera/lens combination will accept / work with a TC.
 
Thank you Box Brownie, Richard, Ken and Chris for your replies, much appreciated information!

Chris, the lens I have is a Tamron SP 70-300mm F4-5.6 Di VC USD. I made a separate thread about teleconverters and what I was told is that it's apparently not worthwhile on my 70-300 and that it would only really be an advantage on a prime lens 300mm+ and it needs to be a very sharp lens to begin with because teleconverters can soften focus.

Ken, yes, I've been considering buying a 90D since it's 32mp and crop sensor. That would give me 480mm on my Tamron.

However, and apologies for slightly going off topic, I really wish I hadn't seen the R6 that's just come out! It's way out of my budget, but I'd kill to have it's animal AF. I need persuading not to consider it because the 90D is more affordable.

Can anyone persuade me not to consider the R6 by telling me the eye, face and animal AF won't actually get me sharper photos than the 90D, or is it a given that because the AF locks on and hardly ever lets go that it will give me sharp in focus photos all the time? But with the R6 being a full frame and less MP, I'd be considering a lens like the Tamron G2 or Sigma 150-600 C.
 
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Thank you Box Brownie, Richard, Ken and Chris for your replies, much appreciated information!

Chris, the lens I have is a Tamron SP 70-300mm F4-5.6 Di VC USD. I made a separate thread about teleconverters and what I was told is that it's apparently not worthwhile on my 70-300 and that it would only really be an advantage on a prime lens 300mm+ and it needs to be a very sharp lens to begin with because teleconverters can soften focus.

Ken, yes, I've been considering buying a 90D since it's 32mp and crop sensor. That would give me 480mm on my Tamron.

However, and apologies for slightly going off topic, I really wish I hadn't seen the R6 that's just come out! It's way out of my budget, but I'd kill to have it's animal AF. I need persuading not to consider it because the 90D is more affordable.

Can anyone persuade me not to consider the R6 by telling me the eye, face and animal AF won't actually get me sharper photos than the 90D, or is it a given that because the AF locks on and hardly ever lets go that it will give me sharp in focus photos all the time? But with the R6 being a full frame and less MP, I'd be considering a lens like the Tamron G2 or Sigma 150-600 C.

"Can anyone persuade me not to consider the R6?" Sorry, no :p
 
"Can anyone persuade me not to consider the R6?" Sorry, no :p

Hehe, I guess not. :D It's a beast of a camera but a beast of a price too at £2500. I paid £350 for my 5D mk2 in June, and I think it was just under £2K in 2008. So I might be able to pick up an R6 for £400 if I can just wait until about 2032. :LOL:
 
@Merlin5

I surmise the R6 will bring much to the table when it comes to helping a photographer achieve a better/higher keeper rate.

But like any other camera it is but a tool and will require the owner to use it with skill to get the best out of it. The same can be said of the 90D.

Your wallet will decide....but one thing for sure it is you that takes the picture not the camera......just saying ;)
 
@Merlin5

I surmise the R6 will bring much to the table when it comes to helping a photographer achieve a better/higher keeper rate.

But like any other camera it is but a tool and will require the owner to use it with skill to get the best out of it. The same can be said of the 90D.

Your wallet will decide....but one thing for sure it is you that takes the picture not the camera......just saying ;)

Thanks Box Brownie, yep, I get what you're saying. It just seems that with the autofocus system in the R6, the inbuilt image stabiliser plus a lens stabiliser, and let's say you're shooting birds in flight with a fast enough shutter speed and the correct aperture, that the autofocus eye lock would almost guarantee great photos, even in the hands of someone relatively inexperienced. I don't know what kind of success rate a 90D would have by comparison, even with someone very experienced.
 
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