Croping?

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GavSterry

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Gavin
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Umm i dont want to sound stupid, but its abit late for me as im asking the question. :nuts:

What exaclty is croping? And whats the best way to do it? I asume its taking one peice of the image and enlarging it? Is this correct.
Gav:thinking:
 
GavSterry said:
Umm i dont want to sound stupid, but its abit late for me as im asking the question. :nuts:

What exaclty is croping? And whats the best way to do it? I asume its taking one peice of the image and enlarging it? Is this correct.
Gav:thinking:
Click to expand...

In a nutshell, yeah :thumbs: But make sure you don't get croping mixed up with groping, coz then you could be in shtook :lol:
 
crop...cut down in size..or shape as well
you arent restricted to the original ratios of sides
so you can do square shots or crop landscape to portrait etc

its the fundamental start to composition outside the camera

groping is for younger members
 
thanks for the quick replys all, But whats the best way to crop? I tied it on photoshop but when i but the bit i want and make it bigger its sometimes blury? Or am i messing something up :thumbsdown:
Gav
 
GavSterry said:
thanks for the quick replys all, But whats the best way to crop? I tied it on photoshop but when i but the bit i want and make it bigger its sometimes blury? Or am i messing something up :thumbsdown:
Gav
Click to expand...

cropping makes the end result smaller in original size
then you have to enlarge a bit to see it better
ctrl+ on my ps2 does it

if its blurry...could be its too big or not good enough in the first place

:thinking:
 
Its not about making anything bigger, cropping is just about cutting bits off to make the composition more balanced or to avoid bits you dont want included. It will always make the image smaller.
 
Wookie said:
It will always make the image smaller.
Click to expand...

that's correct however you can also change the resolution in the crop tool options to resize (up or down) at the same time as cropping
 
Cool thanks guys i think i kinda got it.. I will post a pic and see what advice i am given
Gav
 
GavSterry said:
Cool thanks guys i think i kinda got it.. I will post a pic and see what advice i am given
Gav
Click to expand...

hey..check out the resolution bit...
i use free cropping and non specified...your ps could be set at ratio and dpi

not a bad comment
 
What can i do to make this picture better?

025.jpg
 
it needs to be retaken...i dont think the part you want to be is really sharp and the depth of field is really small
contrast and saturation...which i did on photofiltre...with two sharpening clicks
saving at full resolution only got to 200Kb

it seems a small fragement of a better shot perhaps

 
Thank you! As you can probably guess, i rushed it abit and i havent really got a decent macro lens. I wanted the water droplet to be the shaprest and the main object of the pic, bust as i said i rushed it. Got any pointers to help me on the way?

Gav
 
Sorry let me change that. Has anyone got any tips on shooting macro. I will not rush it from on..
Gav
 
GavSterry said:
Sorry let me change that. Has anyone got any tips on shooting macro. I will not rush it from on..
Gav
Click to expand...

I suggest you start a new thread with a more appropriate macro title, as not many macro specialists are going to drop in on a croping / cropping thread ;)

my tips as one who is thoroughly inexperienced and uneducated in the art but had a play earlier this year enough to know I know too little:

- use a macro capable lens if you've got one (don't know all of what you've got and what it can do), or consider adding macro tube(s) or a macro adaptor (filter ring add on lens thing)

- watch out for minimum focus distance on your lens (tubes or adaptors will modify it)

- select your focus point

- get some tables or a calculator for depth of field then you'll understand why:
- use a tripod or use AI Servo to continually focus if handheld, body sway will move it out of focus. Also use AI Servo if any chance of subject moving.

- f11 or f18 to get any reasonable depth of field,

- 1/100 if there is any chance of camera or subject moving (including wind)

- you'll soon need flash (forget above iso 400, its too noisey on the 400D), if you're using popup flash then probably need to remove lens hood to prevent shadow across subject, also a diffuser (eg. adapted plastic milk carton) is useful but not vital. I use manual mode on camera with flash for macro (Av mode on the 400D meters the shutter for background and controls flash power for subject fill, so you end up with long exposures).​

- your example was soft, this also washes the colour out. Possibilities:
-Too close (minimum focus distance for lens)

- subject or you moving slightly after focussing

- low shutter speed for movement (you or subject)

- incorrect sharpening set in camera if using straight out of camera jpegs

- incorrect sharpening technique if using Post Processing software (go read the tutorials section if you don't understand, look for : Sharpening, Unsharp Mask and USM)

- trying to increase size of image beyond available resolution​

- consider boosting saturation slightly when editing

just my thoughts, not necessarily correct :nuts:
 
Thats brilliant thanks. Im actually in the process of looking for a dedicated macro lens. But i dunno which one to go for ( i did start a thread in the equipment section but no replys :( ) Ill break out my books again and have another read as im getting abit confused with exposure i think. I have loads of photoshop tutorial cds so ill take a look there too. i Have a set of macro rings well adapter things. But the probleme is it really messes up the focusing. Other than that i think all i can do is practice abit more. But any help regarding what lens(s) and what flash(s) are worth taking a look at. Im on abit of a budget at the moment. But anything will be considered.

Gav
 
When using thea macro lens - focusing can be minute (1mm) at close range. manual focus is probably best employed and set the camera on a tripod.

Lenses

60mm 2.8
100mm 2.8
100mm 2.8L IS
180mm 3.5L

Any of the above are amazing Canon lenses - all super sharp with internal focausing so the barrell doesn't protrude when you turn the focus dial.

talron 90mm f2.8 and Sigma 105mm f2.8 are also very sharp but the barrel extends during focus.

they are all pretty expensive lenses though.
 
A very good macro lens is the Sigma 105mm, with this lens you won't go far wrong.
A tripod is essential for macro work, as is an off camera flash or two. Also a remote trigger/cord. A reversing ring would be a cheap way into the macro world. DOF is very very limited when shooting macro so plan well.
 
cool the tamron and the canon 60mm was the 2 i was looking at. has anyone used the 60mm before?
 
try getting the hang of macro using the macro rings before spending ££££ on lenses.

I've had amazing results with the 50mm f/1.8 nifty fifty and the macro rings. Also an old 28-105 (f/3.5-4.5 mkII USM) that claims to be sort of macro. I've only just scratched the surface of macro (more of a sort of closeup and nearly macro experience :lol:), but certainly enough to start understanding some of the issues involved and the thrill of seeing stuff not normally visible.

if you dont understand photoshop then ignore it for now, use canon's DPP that came with the camera instead. A few simple sliders can achieve most of what you need to start with.

I reckon that manual focus (with any precision) is virtually impossible on the 400D. You don't have the old split ring thingy and the viewfinder is too small, and there's no liveview magnifier either. I'd really suggest you stick with AI Servo (the focus option on the right of the screen, not the AI Focus in the middle which somebody here recently described as "pants").
 
Live view would be better I suppose.
 
rings are the business...i used them on a macro lens...to get lifesize

patience does the job...now we are digital you can shoot variations and choose the best
 
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