D300 af
- Thread starter nictry
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- Mike
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the 3d tracking is generally better for larger objects if your flashing past lots of small things as you track the camera gets confused try changing a4 focus tracking to" long " hth mike. also get the magic lantern guide for nikon D300 by simon stafford its very informative and has more info than the manual
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- Ade
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For birds single point is the way to go
The 51 point 3D is ideal for big American Footballers and the like
....Only in 3d tracking will the black box move, in all others as long as you keep within the selected points it will still track.
Another thing to consider is the more points you use, the slower it is at tracking as there's more info and points for the camera to process. A good compromise is 21 point. As long as the subject is within the immediately surrounding AF points (as shown by the INFO button) it'll hold onto that subject well.
Another thing to consider is the more points you use, the slower it is at tracking as there's more info and points for the camera to process. A good compromise is 21 point. As long as the subject is within the immediately surrounding AF points (as shown by the INFO button) it'll hold onto that subject well.
I have to say that on my D300 the only thing that the 3D-Tracking can succesfully track are fish in a fish tank, and even then it won't stick on an fishes eye.
A dog or person or suchlike and it just doesnt work, it might vaguely track the object but the specific part that gets focused on changes randomly, and it will eventually loose it's lock all together. Que lots of pics of dogs with the tail in focus and the face blurry.
Meh, gimmick if you ask me. Program the front function to AF-L (for instant locking/recomposing), and use 'C' focusing with no 3D is the best way that I've found...
A dog or person or suchlike and it just doesnt work, it might vaguely track the object but the specific part that gets focused on changes randomly, and it will eventually loose it's lock all together. Que lots of pics of dogs with the tail in focus and the face blurry.
Meh, gimmick if you ask me. Program the front function to AF-L (for instant locking/recomposing), and use 'C' focusing with no 3D is the best way that I've found...
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- Gordon
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I must be missing or hitting a trick here, got my 70-200 F2.8 Sigma last week and used 51pt3D tracking and thought it was great and kept good focus on birds. Use it in continuous servo focus and Auto AF area modes.
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A little thing called Predictive Auto Focus. There is a delay between you releasing the shutter. The shutter lifting up. The photograph being taken and the shutter closing again. In this time the subject will have moved and thus (in theory) require refocusing. The camera will try and predict this action given parameters it collects during the focus of the image. Most if not all Nikon cameras have it (well, semi/pro models). Its a feature which drives many nuts. Try this:
Set your camera to release the shutter if the subject is in or out of focus in both AF-C and AF-S modes. Disable the shutter auto focus activation and enable it on the AF-ON button. This will give you ultimate control over the focus. Now head on out and focus on a moving subject using the AF-ON button. Hold it until the object is in focus. Let go of the AF-ON button and rattle off a bunch of exposures and I bet you they will be in focus.
Now, sometimes this method needs a little tweaking. If the object is coming towards you or going away from you for instance. But if the object is beyond the maximum focusing distance, little or no tweaking is required. Just focus and fire. Tracking is useful for subjects that remain within the focusing distances of the lens.
Set your camera to release the shutter if the subject is in or out of focus in both AF-C and AF-S modes. Disable the shutter auto focus activation and enable it on the AF-ON button. This will give you ultimate control over the focus. Now head on out and focus on a moving subject using the AF-ON button. Hold it until the object is in focus. Let go of the AF-ON button and rattle off a bunch of exposures and I bet you they will be in focus.
Now, sometimes this method needs a little tweaking. If the object is coming towards you or going away from you for instance. But if the object is beyond the maximum focusing distance, little or no tweaking is required. Just focus and fire. Tracking is useful for subjects that remain within the focusing distances of the lens.