D300 Owners Thread - Anything related to the D300!
- Thread starter wibbly
- Start date
- Messages
- 1,507
- Name
- Brian
- Edit My Images
- No
Just beginning to believe that it is better to shoot RAW
Camera offers:
a. Lossless compressed
b. Compressed
c. Uncompressed
then:
a. 12 bit
b. 14 bit
Bit daunted by all this, by default is uncompressed and 14bit best to use?
Appreciate some views, thank you.
Brian
Camera offers:a. Lossless compressed
b. Compressed
c. Uncompressed
then:
a. 12 bit
b. 14 bit
Bit daunted by all this, by default is uncompressed and 14bit best to use?
Appreciate some views, thank you.
Brian
- Messages
- 1,402
- Name
- Andrew
- Edit My Images
- No
100 images is also the maximum when using the interval timer.
Depending on focal length, you can get away with a 1 second gap in stacked star trails. Wide is more forgiving than long.
Just beginning to believe that it is better to shoot RAW
a. Lossless compressed
b. Compressed
c. Uncompressed
then:
a. 12 bit
b. 14 bit
Bit daunted by all this, by default is uncompressed and 14bit best to use?
Appreciate some views, thank you.
Brian
While 14-bit per RGB is great your frames per second will drop down to a measly 2.5 (from the normal 7-8fps). The D3 by and large is unaffected by this.
davekiddle
Like to feel muppets
- Messages
- 6,169
- Name
- Dave
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Just beginning to believe that it is better to shoot RAW
a. Lossless compressed
b. Compressed
c. Uncompressed
then:
a. 12 bit
b. 14 bit
Bit daunted by all this, by default is uncompressed and 14bit best to use?
Appreciate some views, thank you.
Brian
I normally shoot compressed 12 bit for general stuff, and then 14 bit lossless compressed for landscapes. I can't really see a difference between compressed and uncompressed in viewing terms. You will notice that there is a massive file size difference between compressed and uncompressed. Bythom talks about it in his review of the D300 here and here's a more detailed article.
Last edited:
aberal
lens lens lens (or Lens)
- Messages
- 1,767
- Name
- Alan
- Edit My Images
- Yes
If all the technical gobbledegook on the subject bamboozles you, then 12 bit lossless compressed are the settings to use in the first instance. If you get confident that you understand the technicalities of it all, then feel free to switch to settings of your own choice at a later date.
- Messages
- 3,308
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
It is? I didn't actually look at this feature in the manual yet, but my D200 shot WAY more than 100 images in a sequence using the interval timer. In fact, going through my D200's menu options right now, it caps out at 8,991 images (9 images per interval, to a maximum of 999 intervals).
Just pulled out the D300s to check its menu and it has the same option. Up to 9 images per interval, up to 999 intervals for potentially 8,991 total images.
- Messages
- 1,507
- Name
- Brian
- Edit My Images
- No
Thanks very much for that, i think that is what i will do. Thanks also to you other guys for your input
He means lossless not compressed over lossless compressed.
Its an interesting one, if we look into the future there may be a point where memory and buffers become that quick it is actually quicker to write uncompressed as opposed to the processor overhead required to compress the image (this would impact fps).
However, the way I see it is that if memory does become that quick; processors will (by definition of advancements in technology) also be a lot quicker by then so compression would still be the better option.
- Messages
- 3,308
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
So, just plain uncompressed then?
- Messages
- 3,308
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
That time has come and gone with the Nikon D100. Now they have dedicated hardware to accelerate the compression process (whether lossy or lossless) to the point where it's not really noticable.
Shooting compressed NEF on my old D100 took about 30 seconds per image to process.
- Messages
- 411
- Name
- Sam Hissaund
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Sorry for the confusion! It just seems like it's a wasted option to me, and I guess the only reason anyone would choose it is down to compatibility with the compression? Still, as anything I've used to open a NEF handles all three kinds, it seems to be a bit of a "left behind" menu option!
So, just plain uncompressed then?
You've obviously never had canon then, you have to pay for that feature.
I think you misread what I said - I said there may be a time when memory/buffer speed overtakes cpu speed to the point where its quicker to write uncompressed.
However, I dont think that will ever happen so that time will never come and go.
- Messages
- 3,308
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
Well, I did, but what I said still holds true. On the D100, the compression process did go through the standard CPU on the body, which is why it was so slow, and the need for hardware dedicated to just this process.
That said, looking at going forward from today. I think it's more buffer size than buffer speed. Buffer speed is pretty much held back only by the speed access writing to the memory card.
It's not just the memory card speed that would have to be increased, but also the speed at which the camera can read & write to it. At the moment right now, there's no camera I can recall that can actually take full advantage of the 90mbps offered by the new Sandisk "Extreme Pro" cards, and there's really no reason to buy them over the slightly slower 60mbps "Extreme" cards except to possibly "future-proof" your purchase for faster cameras you may get in a couple of year's time.
- Messages
- 1
- Name
- Sue
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Can anyone help?
I've recently upgraded from a D50 to the D300s and used to use an infra red remote (the ML-L3), the manual for the D300s says that the ML3 is a possible accessory but I can't find out how to set the camera up to make it work. Does anyone know how to do it?
I've recently upgraded from a D50 to the D300s and used to use an infra red remote (the ML-L3), the manual for the D300s says that the ML3 is a possible accessory but I can't find out how to set the camera up to make it work. Does anyone know how to do it?
You can't unfortunately. The ML-L3 and ML-3 are different remotes.
raider2727
Suspended / Banned
- Messages
- 1,108
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Can a D300s owner join in too?
Mine arrives tomorrow.
I sold all my Nikon gear on here 2 weeks ago inc my D300, 24-70-70-200 vr, and 1.7TC. and intended to go back to Canon.
Then i inherited a Nikon 14-24 lens (something i had wanted for ages) i was going to sell it to help my Canon fund but i had a complete change of heart and would have liked the D700 but i want to get into wildlife and birds so opted to come back to a D300s, not interested in the video but the info button, dual cards and keeping it's price were my main reasons for buying.
i have also brought another 24-70 and 70-200 VR and am looking for a 300MM F4 a bit later on.
Has anyone else gone to the D300s and was it worth it?
Mine arrives tomorrow.
I sold all my Nikon gear on here 2 weeks ago inc my D300, 24-70-70-200 vr, and 1.7TC. and intended to go back to Canon.
Then i inherited a Nikon 14-24 lens (something i had wanted for ages) i was going to sell it to help my Canon fund but i had a complete change of heart and would have liked the D700 but i want to get into wildlife and birds so opted to come back to a D300s, not interested in the video but the info button, dual cards and keeping it's price were my main reasons for buying.
i have also brought another 24-70 and 70-200 VR and am looking for a 300MM F4 a bit later on.
Has anyone else gone to the D300s and was it worth it?
- Messages
- 6,290
- Name
- scott
- Edit My Images
- Yes
why was you gonna change if you dont mind me asking, what canon was you thinking of getting.
- Messages
- 3,308
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
Went from the D200 to the D300s, and it was definitely worth it (even if you forget about the free SB-900). Although, unlike you, the HD Video abilities are a big bonus in my case.
Just on the 300mm f/4. I've owned the 300mm f/4 AF-S for about 5 years now, and as much as I love it, if you can wait and save a bit longer, I'd go for the 300mm f/2.8 VR if you can or even the 200-400mm f/4 VR.
I've really not used my 300/4 since picking up the 70-200VR, and with a 1.4x TC, you get a very similar focal length @ f/4, but with VR. I'd probably sell my 300 to put towards the 24-70 f/2.8 or something else to feed my NAS addiction if my wife didn't need a long lens to go do her wildlife thing (she ain't touching my 70-200VR :nono
raider2727
Suspended / Banned
- Messages
- 1,108
- Edit My Images
- Yes
i was going to go for a 5DMKII as by selling my D300, 24-70 AND 70-200 VR I had enough cash for the 5DMKII plus 24-105l f4 IS and the 70-200 f2.8l non IS.
Once you sell your gear you suddenly get the shakes and want it back plus the thing you thought you wanted which in my case was FF suddenly becomes less important lol
Once you sell your gear you suddenly get the shakes and want it back plus the thing you thought you wanted which in my case was FF suddenly becomes less important lol
raider2727
Suspended / Banned
- Messages
- 1,108
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Went from the D200 to the D300s, and it was definitely worth it (even if you forget about the free SB-900). Although, unlike you, the HD Video abilities are a big bonus in my case.
Just on the 300mm f/4. I've owned the 300mm f/4 AF-S for about 5 years now, and as much as I love it, if you can wait and save a bit longer, I'd go for the 300mm f/2.8 VR if you can or even the 200-400mm f/4 VR.
I've really not used my 300/4 since picking up the 70-200VR, and with a 1.4x TC, you get a very similar focal length @ f/4, but with VR. I'd probably sell my 300 to put towards the 24-70 f/2.8 or something else to feed my NAS addiction if my wife didn't need a long lens to go do her wildlife thing (she ain't touching my 70-200VR :nono
Thanks for that, I had the 1.7 TC on my old 70-200 VR and it was terrible i guess from what you are saying the 1.4 is a better match?
- Messages
- 3,308
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
That's the general consensus I've been getting from people who have used the 70-200 with the various Nikon TCs. Personally I didn't buy a TC as I do have the 300/4 AF-S, but it'll be one of the first purchases I make if I can ever convince the wife to let me sell the 300.
I'm using the original VR, as was everybody when I was doing my TC research. Perhaps the new VRII has better results with the 1.7, or perhaps Nikon are planning better 1.4 & 1.7 TCs to go along with their new 2.0 TC released in December that could fix the issues you previously experienced?
- Messages
- 527
- Edit My Images
- Yes
John, have you gotten your free SB900? I've been having issues with getting Nikon to cough up or even acknowledge that I exist. :shake:
- Messages
- 527
- Edit My Images
- Yes
It's all in order now apparently - yes I'd registered on the website, received the voucher (by post) and filled and sent it in, but somewhere in the process I got lost or forgotten. I've got another incident open (the first being I didn't receive the voucher) that asked me to email the proof (which I did) but then got no further response. I asked for acknowledgement of the proof being emailed and it's only on chasing it again that they responded (4 mins back).
I'm sure the above paragraph isn't easy to parse, but the short of it is if you haven't heard anything in 30 days chase it - I assume Nikon are swamped as they've dropped the ball on me a few times here...
I'm sure the above paragraph isn't easy to parse, but the short of it is if you haven't heard anything in 30 days chase it - I assume Nikon are swamped as they've dropped the ball on me a few times here...
- Messages
- 132
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Just thought I'd post a little 'gotcha' that caught me out last night in case it's of help to anyone else.
I thought the AF assist light had broken as it wouldn't work even though it was turned on in the menu (a9) and conditions were very dark
After trying a few things without success, I had to admit defeat and referred to the manual...
Turns out that AF assist lamp doesn't come on when you're in Continuous focus mode, and also when you're not using the centre focus point. I was doing both these things hence no light. Set to S focus mode and centre focus point, all ok again, very relieved
Full details on page 384 of the manual.
I thought the AF assist light had broken as it wouldn't work even though it was turned on in the menu (a9) and conditions were very dark
After trying a few things without success, I had to admit defeat and referred to the manual...
Turns out that AF assist lamp doesn't come on when you're in Continuous focus mode, and also when you're not using the centre focus point. I was doing both these things hence no light. Set to S focus mode and centre focus point, all ok again, very relieved
Full details on page 384 of the manual.
- Messages
- 3,141
- Name
- Graham Mc
- Edit My Images
- Yes
I was going to shoot our county dart match today with my D300 & 70-200 f2.8 lens but it's quite a dark nightclub with the stage barely lit apart from the board area so the players would show up as silhouette's, also the practise area is much the same.
I had a try in my living room with just a lamp on and all i could get was 1/20th sec @ 135mm f2.8 and on ISO 1250, anymore and the noise would become unacceptable. I really need a D3 on my lens to make it far more worthwhile, any comments would be great.
I had a try in my living room with just a lamp on and all i could get was 1/20th sec @ 135mm f2.8 and on ISO 1250, anymore and the noise would become unacceptable. I really need a D3 on my lens to make it far more worthwhile, any comments would be great.
Not much you can do in low light - higher ISO, supplemental lighting (flashes), faster lens or shorter lenses.
If it's a no no to high ISOs or flashes, then the only thing you can do is buy a fast prime - for example, a 30mm 1.4 would be 4 times as fast as 2.8 @ 135mm (2 stops from aperture) but you could hand hold it 4x as slow so gaining you about 4 stops. 50mm would be the same except hand hold it 2x as slow so about 3 stops. Shortening focal length is a bit like VR, won't stop action but will stop shake..
Last edited:
